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Old 04-07-2021, 08:30 AM
Smokey257

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Talking Random Thoughts on 4 77/22's.



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I ordered my first 77/22 the year they were introduced. Right hand side rail on the action appeared to have been snapped and repaired at the factory. Functionally not a problem, but not what I wanted in a new rifle. Returned it to Ruger and it was replaced, no questions asked. (No explanations either, for that matter.)

I enjoyed the 2nd one for several years until a couple of Kimber of Oregon .22's forced it down the road. Accuracy had been good, but not up to the KoA standards.

My third was a nice little Hornet. Accuracy was great and after installing a Volquartsen sear and trigger spring, the pull was light and crisp. Lacked only an adjustment for overtravel. Wish I'd kept some pictures and/or specs on the work I did to resolve that issue. Drilled and tapped a hole at the forward edge of the trigger housing and installed a set screw. Beautiful rifle, but it too was forced out by a KoA Cascade in the same caliber.

That was several years ago, and as many years without a 77/22, until this March.
I was given another .22 l.r. by a family member who no longer used it. Near mint condition but the trigger pull was heavy (somewhere over 5 1/2 pounds) and with a LOT of creep. Taking a coil off the trigger spring and swapping out the sear from the original from the Hornet brought me to clean, 3 1/2# pull. Heavier than my preference but it will do for now.

Considered two minor mods: possible bolt shims?, and another overtravel screw.
Put a small piece of painters masking tape in the bolt face and couldn't close the bolt. That confirmed my suspicion that the bolt locked up acceptably tight. May revisit that issue later.

As for the overtravel screw, I wish I had recorded the exact position (i.e. high or low on the forward edge of the trigger housing) so I could replicate it on 77/22 #4.

If anyone has made a similar modification, I'd love to hear your experience and any suggestions.

Spring has come to the northeast and its time to go outside and make some noise.
Stay safe, ALL, and thanks for listening.

p.s. Seems I'm always getting rid of Rugers. Simple reason. I've always felt confident that I could replace them if I felt the need. Now that Ruger no longer (yes?) makes the 77/22, I guess I'll have to hold on to this one.
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  #2  
Old 04-07-2021, 05:51 PM
62Ranger13
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Welcome to RFC, Smokey257!
I enjoyed reading your random thoughts.

Last edited by 62Ranger13; 04-07-2021 at 05:52 PM. Reason: forgot to cut the quote
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Old 04-07-2021, 06:15 PM
Smokey257

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Talking Random Thoughts

Ranger,
Thanks for the welcome and kind words.
Actually I had been a member of RFC for several years including many "pay it forwards" both in coming and out going. (Think I was flying under "RCrosby" back then, but somehow my password disappeared and the only way I was able to get back in was to comeback in a completely new account.)
"One step forward, two steps back."
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Old 04-07-2021, 07:27 PM
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One of my 22 Hornets is a stainless Ruger 77/22 Varmint. I did exactly what you did to eliminate over travel. The Ruger stainless trigger tang had to be the stickiest tap I ever did. I still have this rifle as well as a Kimber Cascade in 22 Hornet. Aside from installing the over travel screw and stoning the sear and thinning it's spring no other modifications have been needed on my Ruger Hornet. My sole 77/22 buy but all good experience's. I use to go thru Ruger 44 Super Blackhawks pretty regularly. Something interesting would show up and the Blackhawk would end up in trade. Always figured it would be easy to find another one.
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Old 04-07-2021, 07:54 PM
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One of my thoughts is to maybe try a strut you can shorten in the trigger return spring. My 77/17 has a very crisp clean trigger with a bit of polishing and replacement of the return spring. I don't need anything else for it to be a great trigger.
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Old 04-07-2021, 09:35 PM
Smokey257

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Random Thoughts

rc
I'm intrigued by your idea of a "strut" inside (yes?) the spring to limit travel.
Seems it would involve a lot of "cut and try" assembly/disassembly, but would have the advantage of not having to drill into the trigger housing and risk messing that up.
If I get around to it, I'll report back on the results. Maybe a short length of brass tubing that would fit easily inside the spring and over the protrusions on the underside of the sear and corresponding on the trigger.
Maybe we'll hear from someone who's tried that????
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Old 04-08-2021, 05:27 AM
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A simpler solution is just use a longer spring. That will restrict the travel and shorten both the takeupand over travel.
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Old 04-08-2021, 07:10 AM
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Question Random Thoughts

Toomany22's,
Could you explain a little more about your spring idea? I'm having a hard time visualizing how this would work. Have you tried this? Anyone?
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Old 04-08-2021, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokey257 View Post
Toomany22's,
Could you explain a little more about your spring idea? I'm having a hard time visualizing how this would work. Have you tried this? Anyone?
Look at your trigger it moves as far as the spring allows it. Uncompressed until you squeeze the trigger, compresses untill it activares the sear then it keeps on going. I put a cz spring , 455 in mine itwas 30 % longer but a much finer wire. Now zero take up crisp break and no overtravel.
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Old 04-08-2021, 03:09 PM
Smokey257

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Random Thoughts

I can understand where a too short spring could lead to pre-travel. Not as sure how you arrive at zero overtravel though.
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Old 04-08-2021, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokey257 View Post
I can understand where a too short spring could lead to pre-travel. Not as sure how you arrive at zero overtravel though.
Coil bind. The spring 'stacks up' just after the break, and acts as a trigger stop.
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Old 04-10-2021, 07:56 PM
Smokey257

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One More Random Thought

I've always thought of lands engraving on chambered .22 ammo as characteristic of tight, or target chambers.
My '88 vintage 77/22 (blued bolt and trigger) clearly shows engraving on chambered rounds. (CCI HVHP and Standard Velocities) My Kimber K22 rifle does the same. My RAR does not.
With so many variables to consider, I have no idea how much of a factor in accuracy this might be, but I'd be interested to know other thoughts and experiences.
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Old 04-10-2021, 09:13 PM
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Lots of factors but a tight short chamber is a the best start for our little friends, but the rest of the barrel counts too! A tight bore, no burs , and a good crown all are important. Even how hard the pin hits has an effect. Barrel harmonics play a role also. And the stock .

Rimfire is sure a lot of fun, and that is only made better, when the gun is as beautiful as a 77
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Old 04-10-2021, 09:34 PM
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I have been very successful with fitting a small dowel inside the trigger return spring to limit over travel. Made the modification many years ago and the dowel has not failed or worn. It is a bit of trial and adjust, but a very simple solution to over travel.
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Old 04-11-2021, 08:57 AM
Smokey257

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Random Thoughts

Enjoying all the responses. I like the dowel option. Will give it a try. Always like options that either, A. involve no alteration of the basic unit, or B. involve modification of the least expensive and most easily replaced component. Thinking things like springs vs. triggers, sears, etc.
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