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Old 11-12-2019, 08:29 AM
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Another C More Question



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I found a place that has the c more slide in the configuration I want with thhe 12 moa and 4 moa on order.

My question is more about zeroing and holding zero.

If I zero with the 4 moa: the more precise moa, will c more maintain zero even after changing out moa size or does it need re zero every time?

Also does the zeros stay the same from 12 to 4 moa or does a re-zero need to happen every time?

Im new to cmore sights so dont know the intricacies
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Old 11-12-2019, 07:54 PM
Flash_80

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I've had to re-zero every time I've changed modules. And while it holds well, zeroing those things to me is a pain in the butt. Its all friction on both adjustment screws. Fine tuning is a pain when you're trying to lock it down inside an inch at 15yds. So easy to go too far. That or you get the elevation fixed, move the windage some and the elevation changes as well. I hate zeroing them, but I have at least found that they hold it well once done.
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Old 11-12-2019, 07:59 PM
Flash_80

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One more note, the elevation screw on top is more sensitive than the windage screw. Only other thing I can think of is to make sure and loosen the lock screws before you ever turn either of the adjustment screws. I tend to make and adjustment, lock it back. Shoot, then repeat. No idea if this matters or not, but seems like it might make sense.
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Old 11-12-2019, 09:06 PM
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The C-More's have a lot of backlash in the adjustment screws, so always adjust in small amounts in only one direction towards the goal. If you're adjusting the POI down and go too far, don't just attempt to adjust the POI upwards a tiny bit. Note position of the adjustment screw slot and turn the adjustment screw a quarter turn upwards and then turn it back downwards until you are close to the noted starting position, fire a few rounds and make small adjustments downwards.

If you've ever used an old manual milling machine you know what I mean.

The vertical adjustment absolutely needs the lock screw loosened and then snugged back down, gently! before shooting. The horizontal adjustment lock screw doesn't need to be loosened, but DO NOT over-tighten it. There is very little material above the lock screw and it's easy to crack the scope body. That said, if you look at a dozen C-Mores at a match, 20-25% of them will have a cracked body at the horizontal lock screw and the scopes hold zero just fine, but it doesn't look good.

Nolan
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Old 11-12-2019, 10:07 PM
Flash_80

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Reminds me of setting the thickness on our old meat slicer. Bottom it out, roll it up past the number, then drop back to the number. Otherwise you're about to give someone something a lot thinner than they wanted.
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Old 11-13-2019, 08:06 AM
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Thanks for all the info.


So Ill try to minimize switching modules
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Old 11-13-2019, 08:22 AM
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Dear Dave

I agree that that C-More is a lot more difficult to get zeroed and it will not hold its zero when changing module.

Quite frankly, I really would not recommend changing the module at all, getting it set up for what you want with the 12 MOA dot and then getting another gun for the 4 MOA application.

Personally, I have a couple SW Model 41's with multiple barrels. Since the barrels change out so easily, each barrel has a different sighting option, a C-More, a Aimpoint, a Tasco, Irons, Reflex, etc, etc. etc. I know it is a lot more expensive but if you need a variable sized dot, the C-More is not the best red dot for that application.

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Old 11-13-2019, 09:27 PM
Flash_80

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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankythunder View Post
I agree that that C-More is a lot more difficult to get zeroed and it will not hold its zero when changing module.

Quite frankly, I really would not recommend changing the module at all, getting it set up for what you want with the 12 MOA dot and then getting another gun for the 4 MOA application.
I'll agree with this because I basically did it. Had a steel gun I was using an 8MOA for, but also used it for knockdown matches. Bought a 2MOA, eventually bought a 4MOA. I don't know if I ever shot a single knockdown match with the smaller dots before I built up another gun for steel and designated that original as the knockdown match gun. Now I don't use the 8 or the 2, though the 2 pulls a %%%% fine bead and would be one heck of a squirrel popper.
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