Stevens No. 106 Problem

[Pastprime]

Just bought a Stevens 416 and the windage knob on the rear sight only turns about one revolution and stops. That is stops as in metal to metal not sluggish like gunked up. Where would I look for a replacement if I can't find and fix the problem. And, what would be a fair price for one in good working order.

I have a Redfield 75 that came from a Winchester 75 but the mounting plate and receiver screw holes don't match. There may be a Redfield plate for a 416 but I haven't been able to find what to look for.

Any help or ideas appreciated.

Hank

[Sav22]

Numrich still has some original parts for these but most are sold out -
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/savstevspgfld/miscellaneous-sav/416-micrometer

A warning though, I had a report from a person who bought a slide and he said it was so rusty from poor storage it was not usable, so I don't know how good the parts would be.

Most parts from a Savage No 10 or No 15 receiver sight will interchange but they are quite pricey. There are differences in the slides but they should interchange, early ones are taller so you would need a longer elevation screw with it. They also have either a notched or solid bottom where the windage screw goes through, early ones had the notch. In the Numrich schematic they show the notched version and in the detail for the part the solid version -


The 416's have a larger diameter receive than many other 22's so a lot of other sights will not fit or not have enough windage to center. An Armstrong receiver sight for centerfire rifles will fit using the existing holes, they have enough windage to center on the rifle but will not be centered in the sight arm. Picture is of a dual range version with an adjustable long range, they also made a version with two fixed ranges and a single range version.

[Pastprime]

Thank you for all of that information. I did get the sight working this morning. Simple really: someone had put a piece of shim stock under the tower but it was too tight to allow lateral travel. They must have driven the tower over it. the hole where the windage screw exits was slightly peened over. About 45 minutes of tinkering and it works fine. I don't notice any excess play in the windage adjustment but someone did.

Off to the range shortly to see if the rifle fires and see whether anything else need attention.

Thanks again,

Hank

[blkwollf]

Had 2 of the '416's once;...they Both loved 'Wolf Match Target'!!!

[Pastprime]

Thank you for all of that information. I did get the sight working this morning. Simple really: someone had put a piece of shim stock under the tower but it was too tight to allow lateral travel. They must have driven the tower over it. the hole where the windage screw exits was slightly peened over. About 45 minutes of tinkering and it works fine. I don't notice any excess play in the windage adjustment but someone did.

Off to the range shortly to see if the rifle fires and see whether anything else need attention.

Thanks again,

Hank

[Pastprime]

Rifle did OK but not perfect at the range. I guess a lot of people got AR's for Christmas because the 50 and 100 yard line was full of them. Had to shoot at 25 yards, but that's fine.

Had about 15-20% failure to fire on the first snap but always fired on the second. The bolt is a little stiff compared to more newer rifles's I've had. Not sure where to start but I'm thinking causes could be: excessive headspace (the back of the bolt handle were it mates with the receiver is well worn), worn firing pin, weak mainspring, or gummed up bolt insides (I sprayed a gun scrubber in the bolt and blew it out but did not see the dark yellow old grease come out). Since the rifle is close to 80 years old, bound to be some wear somewhere.

Your experiences or thoughts welcome.

Hank

[blkwollf]

Originally Posted by Pastprime

Rifle did OK but not perfect at the range. I guess a lot of people got AR's for Christmas because the 50 and 100 yard line was full of them. Had to shoot at 25 yards, but that's fine.

Had about 15-20% failure to fire on the first snap but always fired on the second. The bolt is a little stiff compared to more newer rifles's I've had. Not sure where to start but I'm thinking causes could be: excessive headspace (the back of the bolt handle were it mates with the receiver is well worn), worn firing pin, weak mainspring, or gummed up bolt insides (I sprayed a gun scrubber in the bolt and blew it out but did not see the dark yellow old grease come out). Since the rifle is close to 80 years old, bound to be some wear somewhere.

Your experiences or thoughts welcome.

Hank

YUP !!! Sounds Like Your on the way to Correcting the problem! --- Good Luck W/the Project!!!

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-man...rifles-sav/416

[Pastprime]

Originally Posted by blkwollf

YUP !!! Sounds Like Your on the way to Correcting the problem! --- Good Luck W/the Project!!!

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-man...rifles-sav/416

That's were I ordered my parts. They don't always have the best but they usually have something.

Hank

[FredT]

Hank - I know I'm late with this but here's something you can put in your little bag of tricks that MIGHT be helpful in the future. There is a method of removing rust from metal that is so efficient that it even removes rust from the bottom of pits. It involves a tray, a clean piece of steel (that you don't mind sacrificing), a battery charger, and some clothes-washing compound. I saw this YEARS AGO & don't remember much about it so you'll have to "google" it for yourself. What you do is mix the laundry compound with water & put it in the tray. Then you attach one lead of the battery charger to the steel rod (you don't have to have a large one) and you immerse the rod in the laundry mixture. Then you attach the other lead to the rusty piece & you totally immerse it in the solution. (Polarity matters) Then you plug the charger in and wait. What happens next is that the steel rod becomes quite dirty and the rusty piece loses ALL its rust. This amount to a sort of reverse anodizing process.... and the folks I've talked to say it really works. Like I said - a little something for your bag of tricks..... FredT

[Arkyplinker]

Fred, that is indeed a cool little trick. Do you know/remember if the material the tray is made of is critical? I was thinking this might affect the polarity.

[tickridger]

Plastic would work nicely.

John

[Pastprime]

Great tip, FredT. I'll print your post and put it in my file. The really nice thing is this would work well on the smaller parts that are so difficult for old fingers to hold onto...

Thank you,

Hank