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  #61  
Old 10-20-2015, 09:31 AM
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There is nothing wrong with being cautious. I would look at your pistol as having been "stress relieved" after the machining operation.

As thick as the barrel is, there is only one direction that round is going after the firing pin hits it.

You are wise in changing all the springs. That is an area where they are probably ruined.
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  #62  
Old 10-20-2015, 09:36 AM
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M2HB.... I think ultimately we are on the same page.

Like Ronald Reagan said.... " Trust but verify! "

.

Last edited by IPSC; 10-20-2015 at 12:17 PM.
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  #63  
Old 10-20-2015, 05:08 PM
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Wink maybe this is a dumb question,but...here goes

I figured this might be a good place to ask. I recently looked at a 98% browning pistol wood grips, adjustable rear sight,short barrel no box and one magazine,that looks very much like yours. seller asking 500.00. didn't know much about it. how can you tell if it is a challenger or a nomad???
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  #64  
Old 10-20-2015, 05:44 PM
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Challenger has:

- gold trigger (with hidden overtravel screw ). Nomad is blued steel with no overtravel screw.

- Challenger has slide hold-open lever ( none on Nomad, therefore Nomad also doesn't have last-shot hold-open feature).

- Challenger rear frame post (on rear face) shows an inset screw....used as a trigger "weight-of-pull" adjustment. Nomad lacks this.

- Challenger typically has wooden grips. ( Nomad typically has black plastic).

Gunbroker prices are all over the place, with Challengers showing $600-$700, and Nomad about $100-$200 less.

.
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  #65  
Old 10-20-2015, 09:55 PM
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excellent information

Quote:
Originally Posted by IPSC View Post
Challenger has:

- gold trigger (with hidden overtravel screw ). Nomad is blued steel with no overtravel screw.

- Challenger has slide hold-open lever ( none on Nomad, therefore Nomad also doesn't have last-shot hold-open feature).

- Challenger rear frame post (on rear face) shows an inset screw....used as a trigger "weight-of-pull" adjustment. Nomad lacks this.

- Challenger typically has wooden grips. ( Nomad typically has black plastic).

Gunbroker prices are all over the place, with Challengers showing $600-$700, and Nomad about $100-$200 less.

.
THANKS, I believe I was looking at a challenger.it is marked made in Belgium . gold trigger. I didn't look at it long enough to notice/remember the other features. 500.doesnt sound too bad then, at 95%++.
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  #66  
Old 10-20-2015, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon p View Post
THANKS, I believe I was looking at a challenger.it is marked made in Belgium . gold trigger. I didn't look at it long enough to notice/remember the other features. 500.doesnt sound too bad then, at 95%++.
Make sure it has a factory mag that say "BROWNING" on the base.
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  #67  
Old 10-21-2015, 07:58 AM
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Thumbs up Ok

Quote:
Originally Posted by M2HB View Post
Make sure it has a factory mag that say "BROWNING" on the base.
it did, that I did notice!!
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  #68  
Old 10-21-2015, 08:16 AM
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Asking prices on Gunbroker for original Browning mags are around $130....
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  #69  
Old 10-21-2015, 08:44 AM
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Simply FYI....

Here is one example currently bid to $360 ( with a few days to go)...some wood distress that can easily redone. Two factory mags too. (wish these guys would remove their finger prints on these guns...gives me the shivers as an acid-point to start corrosion....what are they thinking ??...see this all the time with photos )

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=515982473

.
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  #70  
Old 10-21-2015, 12:04 PM
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I'll be picking up my gun soon from the local plater. In the meantime, he sent this one photo. Seems he has a crappy camera too, but still better than my cell-phone camera !!.....

More to come later as I get more of the parts and start the re-assembly journey--->





.

Last edited by IPSC; 01-19-2018 at 02:18 PM.
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  #71  
Old 10-24-2015, 08:13 AM
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Well....I got 'er all together...and I must say she is a beaut. Matte industrial-chrome finish with a black front sight blade and black rear sight and sight tang. Looks good. Pics will come later as I am still wrestling with the camera issue.

A few technical details for those that follow this sort of thing.

- the Spirol roll pin used to retain the firing pin: As I mentioned before, the factory shop manual speaks to using a normal roll pin 11/32" long (0.34") if ever you need to replace it, and I was eye-balling the true dimension to be closer to 0.300-0.304". As it turned out, I used a 3 mm dia (0.119") pin that needed to be 0.275" long. And when I compared it to the (fairly mangled) original piece I removed, it was also around that same 0.275" length. I have no idea where the shop manual roll-pin length numbers come from.

- Springs. I needed to replace every single spring in the gun, as a matter of good practice. Some original springs lost temper and some simply got only a bit softer. Here is what is in the gun at the moment, I had some factory spares in my parts stash:

* recoil spring...factory. Now used with white Buckmark buffer.
* firing pin spring.... Buckmark (seems a bit too strong installed in the C1. We will see after test if we need to cut down).
* hammer/mainspring(s)....these are 2 co-axial springs. Factory.
* magazine spring....from CII/early CIII, available from Ebay seller. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Browning-Cha...o9cyBs3rNn7J6Q
* sear spring.... factory
* slide hold-open "Swan" shaped spring....factory
* extractor spring. I found a source of small springs that are VERY close to what is used for C1. They are a smidge fatter in rolled diameter, almost Buckmark-like, bit fit and function well. Here is the spec and the source--->
Music Wire Compression Spring, Steel, Metric, 2.82 mm OD, 0.32 mm Wire Size, 8.51 mm Compressed Length, 20.6 mm Free Length, 4.67 N Load Capacity, 0.38 N/mm Spring Rate ( http://www.amazon.com/Compression-Sp...ing+2.82+mm+OD)

Other issues:

- When checking the function of the installed firing pin, I noticed that when the tail-end (hammer-strike-end) was pushed-in as far as it would go, that the tip of the firing pin extended past the front-face of the slide only about 1/2 the amount of another factory slide/pin, I had for comparison. In the other factory slide, the front-pin protrusion was almost the full depth of the rim-recess-depression in the front-face of the slide (that is, would probably allow the tip to contact the barrel breech-face when in-battery,on an empty chamber). That all said, I am simply re-using the firing pin that came with the gun, so I shouldn't have ignition issues. I also noticed that when I dry-fire the gun with a wall anchor installed as a snap-cap, the wall anchor "rim" has a very solid depression mark, where the pin hits. I will check closely for possible light primer hits, especially noting the extra-strong Buckmark firing pin spring installed.

More later....hopefully with pics. Then a shooting test report after that at some point in time.

.

Last edited by IPSC; 01-21-2018 at 03:27 PM.
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  #72  
Old 10-24-2015, 11:01 AM
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I can't wait for the pictures.

How much did you cut down the BuckMark firing pin spring, or did you?
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  #73  
Old 10-24-2015, 04:24 PM
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Did not cut down the Buckmark firing pin. Installed...it felt a bit stronger than factory, but I won't cut down (if at all), until after test firing gives us some data to go on.
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  #74  
Old 10-24-2015, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IPSC View Post
Did not cut down the Buckmark firing pin. Installed...it felt a bit stronger than factory, but I won't cut down (if at all), until after test firing gives us some data to go on.
As long as it fires with plenty of force, the heavier spring won't hurt a thing.

Was the BuckMark firing pin spring that you used a 2000 or earlier spring, or a post 2000 spring? I don't know the difference, but I know that Browning lists them as different springs.
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  #75  
Old 10-24-2015, 07:31 PM
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M2HB....

In my response #49 above in this thread, I mention the part number used.
" I will try Buckmark Firing Pin spring # B5150003 in this Belgian Challenger."

I believe this to be pre-2000. The post 2000 FP is now sold only as an "assembly" (part number B5150065), and I bought one of these too, but the spring is encapsulated in some sort of housing that needs to be disassembled if you want the spring alone. The pre-2000 FP spring costs something like $1.25 and "2001+" part....the spring assembly,.... went for $6.25 as I recall. All from Browning/Winchester out of Arnold, MO.

.

Last edited by IPSC; 10-26-2015 at 12:59 PM.
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