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  #1  
Old 05-16-2013, 06:43 PM
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Tuning up a Rock BR rest.



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Thanks to the Photobucket fiasco I've had to break this thread up into 3 parts.
Follow this link https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...89#post9126489 to the updated thread.

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Last edited by Bill40718; 07-10-2017 at 12:42 PM. Reason: Added some info to Step 3.
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  #2  
Old 05-16-2013, 07:11 PM
Oldblades
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Thanks for taking the time for such a detailed post. I am constantly pulling my BR apart to try to make things a little better. Lotsa new things to try now.
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  #3  
Old 05-16-2013, 07:26 PM
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Oldblades,

East Bethel, Mn. ! Is that kind of like kinda West Forest Lake, Mn?
My geography is slipping a bit.
My wife came from Forest Lake and I from Stillwater.
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Last edited by Bill40718; 05-18-2013 at 12:22 PM.
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  #4  
Old 05-16-2013, 09:26 PM
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Excellent. My BR has been getting the evil eye from time to time.
I thought about using some auto motive valve lapping compound on the main bolt and mariner wheel. put some on it and run the wheel up and down a several times.
The ideas you guys came up with sound very promising.

mike
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:38 PM
Oldblades
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill40718 View Post
Oldblades,

East Bethel, Mn. ! Is that kind of like kinka West Forest Lake, Mn?
My geography is slipping a bit.
My wife came from Forest Lake and I from Stillwater.
Bill, your geography is still right on. 15 miles due west of Forest Lake.
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  #6  
Old 05-17-2013, 04:41 AM
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Great post Bill

The one mod that really interests me is changing the shape of the tip of the mariner lock screw and getting rid of the black plastic "key" I believe it's called. That part has given me nothing but problems from day one. I have to loosen the screw and push down hard in the mariner wheel to lower the elevation. I've talked to Caldwell about it and their solution was to replace the key. They sent me 3 but those things get chewed up pretty quick.
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:20 PM
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Thanks for the comments guys.
I have made a slight addition that will certainly help with the up/down movement of the upper rest ( Dr. Heckel take note). Updates in bright blue text.
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Last edited by Bill40718; 05-18-2013 at 12:23 PM.
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  #8  
Old 05-18-2013, 12:31 PM
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This is an excellent writeup.

Thanks for posting this.
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:53 PM
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I have a different version of this rest than what is illustrated, so I don't know what may or may not apply to both versions. I plan to try as many mods listed here on mine as I can. Mine is an earlier, and I believe first version of the rest, back when they offered the big heavy Long Range version of this rest.. My rest has a swiveling windage assembly, as compared to what I hear is the new version, which is an assembly that slides in pure linear side to side motion. My forend stop is a simple bolt and lock nuts with some kind of small cylindrical knob on the bolt which contacts the forend. My rest top has a small rearward protrusion to hold a circular level. This is a problem because it can (and has) caused stock dings on the bottom of the forend if the butt of the rifle is lowered. I may mill that off flat, then relocate the level to the top of the rear rest screw. I haven't had the problem mentioned with the mariner wheel, "the key', and lowering the rest. I don't actually know if my version has that key, but it does have the same thrust bearing that makes lowering a bumpy affair.

I have my own mod. for my version of the rest. I am a left handed shooter. I wanted to see if the windage adjustment knob and internal mechanism could be flipped around to opposite sides. It appeared like it could be, and I found out that it could be. Clearly, Midway purposely made some duplicate features on both sides to allow this. To do this, first look for a setscrew along the side of the windage knob. It is accessible from the top side. Unscrew this and take it out. It is a stop to prevent the windage adjustment from being dissasembled through use in the field. Unscrew and take out the windage adjustment knob. Put these parts aside. On the other side, directly opposite the knob is another assembly. This is a stainless steel button head style socket screw. Unscrew it with an allen wrench. Take it out and carefully remove the spring and plunger you will find inside. Put the plunger in the hole where the windage adjustment screw was located, followed by the spring and screw. Now take the windage adjustment knob and screw it into the opposite side. You must screw the knob in enough that the knob threads go past the setscrew hole, but not so far that the windage adjustment moves and blocks access to the setscrew hole. As mentioned before, this setsctew keeps the adjustment knob from being backed out and falling apart in the field. Snug the setscrew down and you are done. It may be possible that some of the threaded holes, especially the "new" setscrew hole will be snug and resist the new parts beind added and adjusted. Just be careful, start the parts in straight and work the parts together, in, out, in, out, slowly. Some compressed air and solvent, if you have those, might not be bad idea, to clear out any newly formed metal chips, preventing any possible thread galling. I also added a bit of anti-sieze grease to the windage adjustment knob. There was none from the factory and this puzzles me. Maybe the bean counters figured out that this elimination would save half a penny for every one hundred gazillion units msnufactured.

Hope this is useful to someone,

Danny
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:59 PM
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I had some time to take my rest apart. My version does not have the little black part that goes behind one of the adjustment lock screws, and in fact, both lock screws have the ends with the reduced diameter.

Danny
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  #11  
Old 05-28-2013, 02:06 AM
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I got around to working on my BR a bit today. I removed the plastic "key" that has been giving me problems from the beginning and swapped the upper and lower locking screws. I removed the threads from the end of the one screw the best I could with a Dremel. What a HUGE difference removing the plastic key made!! My top now locks up with zero movement and I can finally lower the top without pushing down on the elevation wheel. It feels like a different rest.

Im looking forward to getting to the range and trying it out
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  #12  
Old 06-08-2013, 07:39 PM
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Has anyone done any more with their rest?

Danny
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  #13  
Old 06-08-2013, 08:25 PM
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Hi Danny,

I haven't done anything more to my rest. It's darn hot here in Arizona and my garage is not air conditioned. But, based on my last range trip I think that I will pay more attention to the two following points.

1. Put a slight bevel on the end of the mariners wheel lock screw. Just enough to break the sharp edge.
2. Put more effort into smoothing the key way that the lock screw goes into.

This probably isn't real important but makes the operation smoother when you only back the lock screw out a quarter turn.

I also found that the rectangular Delrin ears, that I had mounted in the photos, are less than optimal. The ears need to be beveled on the vertical axis. That way you only have a small flat or radius bearing against the stock sides.

Due to the heat, I'm back to using my Protector front rest bag. The Delrin will get modified when the outside temp is more agreeable.
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  #14  
Old 06-09-2013, 09:55 AM
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I did not like the lash in the windage adjustment. I found that you can buy some thrust bearings and thrust washers that are the exact side needed. I replaced the plastic parts that came with my Rock BR with these. Not only did it make it smoother, but it's much easier to dial the lash out without making it hard to turn the windage adjustment knob.

For the money, the Rock BR is not a bad rest as long as you get one of the later ones where the windage tray moves straight instead of pivoting about a front pivot point which is what the early version did.

Robert
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  #15  
Old 06-09-2013, 11:07 AM
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Exclamation Good stuff!

Robert,

Good info there.

Could you post a link to the parts?
Or ID the maker and part number?

The windage adjustment was the one place where we made the least improvement. Your mods will certainly make the BR a better rest.

Thanks for your contribution.
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The older I get, the more grateful I am.......
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