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  #31  
Old 03-14-2010, 10:17 PM
Don Fenton
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mals9,
You sure brought that 60 to life, looks great.
Please post a "after elixer photo".

Don
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  #32  
Old 03-15-2010, 07:45 AM
woodstock63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAM22673 View Post
Woodstock I'd like to request some pics of a laminate stock that you have done with this method. I will defanatly be keeping this method in mind for future refinishing projects. They look great.
I'm sorry, those two T.H. laminates were for customers of my gunsmith and they went out last week. I'm really lax with photos I guess because I take this stock finishing for granted and the work I get is by word of mouth. I don't advertise to get it. I am retired, we live in the middle of 20 acres, 2 miles from a town of 41 people and 12 miles from a university town. Not quite the boondocks but close.

I do these for friends, myself or my gunsmith and it does keeps me hopping with everything thing else I have going on.

I had ordered a CZ550FS in .243, it came in and the stock was terrible, I contacted CZ, never received a response so the next week I stripped and refinished it, nothing to write home about as far as grain characteristics but at least the pores have been leveled out. I mention this to encourage people that with the "Elixir" method, "have no fear".

What I learned on laminate; it's harder to prep due to soft/harder grains (use a backlight to check constantly to avoid low spots, "pencil round" severe edges so end grains don't get caught and chip. All butt ends and inner curves have to be sanded very smooth (small imperfections will telegraph) and end grains will darken more. This is a case for Armor-All a coat or two first to seal and then do the "Elixir" method. My learning curve. They did turn out very nicely though.

To MALS: Looks great and I'm glad everyone is seeing the value in this finish. The point that everyone that has tried this has been that it brings out a translusence and gives the stock a high end look. Exactly right on. The more coats, the better. They take such a small amount of time for each one that it's worth it.

To everyone: Send photos; before and after, plus close-ups if you can. This will really illustrate to others as well as anything.
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  #33  
Old 03-15-2010, 10:37 AM
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Winchester 290, project. I will do a before and after on this! Stripped it down last night. I may have a photo up this evening.
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  #34  
Old 03-15-2010, 03:55 PM
woodstock63
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Wow Chris, it sounds like you're having fun with this process..
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  #35  
Old 03-15-2010, 04:10 PM
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do you sand old finish off of do ya have to use a stripper? how to do checkered areas?
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  #36  
Old 03-15-2010, 04:26 PM
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I used spray on chemical stripper and a toothbrush, Had to hit it twice, once after photo was taken, I noticed a few white flakes of residue. I will have a photo of the finishing toniht, looks nice.
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  #37  
Old 03-15-2010, 04:34 PM
woodstock63
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Originally Posted by b.ritter View Post
do you sand old finish off of do ya have to use a stripper? how to do checkered areas?
You might want to back up in the posts. Hopefully I've answered both of your questions within the above posts. If not let me know.

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  #38  
Old 03-15-2010, 04:59 PM
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sorry, i had overlooked the one on checkering
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  #39  
Old 03-15-2010, 08:13 PM
Don Fenton
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woodstock63,

Help, I did a light sanding with 4/0 steel wool on a Tru Oil finshed laminated stock, wiped down with a cloth covered magnet then with a tack rag. Then I applied a small amount of ArmorAll rubbing it in good, then some Tru-Oil rubbed until it felt dry. Still wet after 5 hours and has a orange peel texture, what did I do wrong?

Don

Last edited by Don Fenton; 03-15-2010 at 08:18 PM.
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  #40  
Old 03-15-2010, 08:47 PM
woodstock63
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Don,

I'll ask some questions first because I have never ever experienced this with dozens of stocks including last week's two laminated ones. (those started as bare wood though, but that shouldn't matter.) It sounds like it's reacting to whatever it's going over somehow. I personally feel it is reacting somehow to an existing condition.

1. My first reaction: Is it possible that the waxy tack cloth has left a wax signature and the "elixir: is going thru as you rub the mix in and is forming a barrier of sorts. I've used tack cloths but very lightly because of the waxy content which will repel and push things around..

2. The Armor-All and Tru-Oil are pretty non-invasive so I seriously doubt they alone are the cause.

3. If your original Tru-Oil finish was heavier coats and wasn't totally cured, your new coats may be "pushing" into the original coats.

4. Because you already had Tru-Oil on it, I can;t believe the glues are affecting it either.

5. I've always associated "orange peel" as related to repeling reaction or too much finish but you did say you used small amounts.

I'd like to solve this as bad as you because in four years of many stocks there has to be a logical answer.

I don't know if you tested an area first or did the whole stock but if you say it's still wet, I guess I would remove what you just applied. (Mineral spirts?)

Keep me posted and stay in touch so we can get to the bottom of this. It shouldn't be happening but it is.
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  #41  
Old 03-15-2010, 08:58 PM
woodstock63
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Don.

Another thought as I re-read your post. You mentioned that you rubbed the Armor-All in good. This may be a key.

As mentioned in the formula, I spray Armor-All on and wipe off excess with a cloth. It's almost like having 1/2 Armor-All and 1/2 Tru-Oil. This isn't isn't a measured formula, it's just that i've never rubbed the Armor-All in, just cloth wipe any excess off.

I guess what I'm saying is that if the Armor-All was rubbed in good until almost dry, then the Tru-Oil has nothing to mix with and the little bit of Armor-All left after rubbing good has put up enough of a barrier to repel the Tru-Oil just enough to not let it dry, and then what's left of the Armor-All underneath is causing the "orange peel' from the bottom up.
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  #42  
Old 03-15-2010, 09:48 PM
Don Fenton
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woodstock63,
I'll bet your right.

BTW, My original finish had cured for 8-9 days prior to this attempt. I only did several areas, I think I'll let these cure for several days then lightly sand with 800 grit (not to bare wood), let dry for several more days to make sure the finish under has cured then re-apply the "elixir"?

Don
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  #43  
Old 03-15-2010, 10:13 PM
woodstock63
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Don,

Check your mail, just sent you a note.

A better theory that I had was that maybe the Armor-All got rubbed in too much and didn't have enough fluidity to mix with the Tru-Oil. That is really a must, they have to be able to mix, hence, it's not drying. This may be an even more logical theory.

Once you get it sanded off test a small area first. Spray on Armor-All; palm or cloth wipe off excess; rub in Tru-Oil to mix the two. Don't rub the Armor-All application in by itself, let it be fluid.

I'd be willing to bet this should do it.

I kind of doubt your finish wasn't cured enough unless the coats were quite thick to start with.
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  #44  
Old 03-15-2010, 10:41 PM
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Here's another little thought on the 'orange peel' appearance. I used to refinish quite a few wood stocks, a few years back.

DO NOT rub the Tru-Oil in a circular motion. It will cause air bubbles (that are so small, you can't really see them), and those will cause a dimpled look as they try to escape the oil. Rub the Tru-Oil "with the grain" of the wood, and only in one direction. Going back and forth (even with the grain) can cause minute air bubbles, too.
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  #45  
Old 03-16-2010, 12:19 AM
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Question for you, This method dries fast, maybe too fast, it is super "flat" finish, no sheen. Do you let it cure for a few days and then polish it or do you do a final coat or 2 without the armour all?
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