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  #16  
Old 01-09-2008, 02:08 AM
saxman

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don't know if it was just lucky or what, but a screwdriver with a #15 torx bit on it worked perfectly on mine for getting the barrel screw out. Didn't have any luck with any allen wrenches but that worked perfectly.
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  #17  
Old 01-09-2008, 05:13 PM
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well this is absolutely lame..this is a piece of ****, i just bought it, put 200 rounds through it, and am attempting to field strip it like the manual and everyone here says, the barrel screw will not come loose, I dont have a propane torch but i put it in the oven at 500f for several minutes, placed it in the socket, then used a diff allen in an attempt to loosen it and that only caused it to break off and now I can't get it out of the socket...

this thing was fun to shoot but this is ridiculous...im thinking about returning it today.
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  #18  
Old 01-09-2008, 05:31 PM
guns&motorcycles

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Quote:
Originally Posted by alleyehave View Post
well this is absolutely lame..this is a piece of ****, i just bought it, put 200 rounds through it, and am attempting to field strip it like the manual and everyone here says, the barrel screw will not come loose, I dont have a propane torch but i put it in the oven at 500f for several minutes, placed it in the socket, then used a diff allen in an attempt to loosen it and that only caused it to break off and now I can't get it out of the socket...

this thing was fun to shoot but this is ridiculous...im thinking about returning it today.
That is really frustrating. Is there a gunsmith at the shop where you bought the gun? Perhaps they would be willing to pull it for you, in order to keep a customer happy.

Once you have it out though, you shouldn't have any more trouble.
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2008, 05:33 PM
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Again,

There is nothing to clean under the barrel. The only benefit to removing it is that you can clean from the chamber instead of the muzzle.

If you must remove it, heat the screw and give the heat time to reach the threads. THen use a wrench or screwdriver to turn it. A torx wrench sometimes works better than a hex head.
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2008, 05:59 PM
alleyehave

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Well, I would take it to a gunsmith to have him take the screw out, but the %%%% hex broke off inside and I can't get it out to save the life of me...I called the place I bought it and two other gunsmiths and they said they can't do anything about it unless that piece is out and they dont think they can get it out...so i'm gonna have to send it to browning the first day I buy it and wait 4--6 weeks turnaround for a gun that doesn't even have 200 rounds through it...awesome, really great
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  #21  
Old 01-09-2008, 07:46 PM
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I continualy read these threads and I just shake my head... Don't remove the barrel. There is no reason to. If you are worried about cleaning the pistol from the muzzel end, get a bore snake and start it from the chamber. I have thousands of rounds through my buckmark and have never found a need to take it apart more than the manual recomends.
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  #22  
Old 01-09-2008, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ledbetter View Post
There is nothing to clean under the barrel. The only benefit to removing it is that you can clean from the chamber instead of the muzzle.

If you must remove it, heat the screw and give the heat time to reach the threads. THen use a wrench or screwdriver to turn it. A torx wrench sometimes works better than a hex head.
Seriously, I think they read it the first time. I'm really not trying to be a di ck, but not everyone bought the same exact gun you did. I'm telling you, MY gun had a large amount of goop UNDER THE BARREL. If I hadn't taken the barrel off, I never would've seen it. It was thick and looked like ear wax. I assume this is the exact stuff that Browning says you need clean out of your firearm when you get it and before you shoot it. Read your manual. Maybe I have a different manual, a newer version perhaps.....but on page 21, step #3 of the "Disassembly" heading reads, "Loosen the barrel mounting screw located below the barrel (Figure 12), at the front of the frame approximately 3.5 turns counterclockwise." The rest of the disassembly includes taking off the barrel and sight rail as one piece and removing the slide. Am I missing something?

After this first/initial cleaning to get the factory lube out, then, NO, there probably isn't any good reason to take the barrel off unless you really need to or want to....it's really personal preference. I've been posting on this thread because someone who wanted to know how to get that screw out asked a simple question and I had done it in the previous 24 hours. For someone to come on here and say, "You don't need to." or flat out say, "Don't remove your barrel." seems really presumptuous to me. Someone came here for advice, not orders on what to do with their pistol.

Last edited by J. Plate; 01-09-2008 at 08:36 PM.
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  #23  
Old 01-09-2008, 08:15 PM
RICOCHET

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with some great advise here, i now remove the bbl/scope rail/ scope as ONE
unit. NOT to clean it, as i have an otis system and other gizmos.

BUT, so i dont have to deal with the plastic FP assy. got tired of having to straighten out the recoil rod, and one of these days am gonna lose that "c" clip, lol, when try some new mods,

PLUS, dont have to be removing the scope rail and re-mounting the scope.

yea, had a lot of yellow looking grease all over under the bbl. am glad i
removed the bbl. hard a tough go of it but am not one to let a piece of
machinery get the better of me. HAHA,

rico....








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  #24  
Old 01-09-2008, 10:11 PM
Zen900
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Most stuck bolts will come loose if you tap them with a couple of sharpe blows similar to the trick of tapping a jar lid with a knife handle to loosen it. My barrel hex nut was stuck so I stuck a small phillips screw drive in it and tapped on it. Then the hex screw busted loose easily. I never muscle small screws or bolts. Finesse them. Rarely do I use heat.
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  #25  
Old 01-09-2008, 11:23 PM
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alleyehave: sorry to hear you had to send it back to browning- hopefully your experience will improve once you get it back (if you don't decide to sell it)

That being said-

I didn't really have a problem removing my barrel, although I was dissapointed that the manual showed it being removed with a flat head screwdriver when in reality it took an allen wrench. I actually loctite'd the screw in place so it wouldn't shoot loose. Now when cleaning the barrel I:
A. Insert rod muzzle end, screw bore brush on, pull through, repeat or-
2. Use a bore snake (now that I have one)

First post, FWIW.
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  #26  
Old 01-10-2008, 03:13 AM
troublemaker_42
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I couldn't get the barrel off of my new camper either. Twisted one allen wrench, and both torx screwdrivers I had were too fat to fit under the barrel. I'd like to get the "goop" out, but shot it today regardless. Regardless, it was dfefinitely fun!
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  #27  
Old 01-10-2008, 02:09 PM
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Presumptuous?

One of the questions asked in this thread is "How important is it to remove the barrel?"

Presumptuous to tell someone they don't need to remove the preservative grease between the barrel and frame? The grease you want to remove before firing is in the chamber, the barrel itself and parts of the action.

Presumptuous to warn against pointless barrel removal in a thread where at least one poster has already screwed his gun up so badly that no local gunsmith can or will fix it?

I disagree. I've had my Buck Mark for years and have never had to have someone fix it for me or buggered up any of the screws or parts. I;ve read the manual several times and own about a half dozen .22 pistols.

Many more guns are ruined by brutal disassembly procedures than by shooting with grease between the barrel and frame.

But don't let me spoil your fun. Get a bigger wrench.
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  #28  
Old 01-10-2008, 02:36 PM
e=mc2

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dissASSembly

Some ornery screws and small fasteners are often best left to a competent DIY guy or gunsmith to remove. Heat does play a major role in removing a tuff screw. Did i understand your post correctly that you put your pistol in the oven to heat it up? I sure hope not!
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  #29  
Old 01-10-2008, 02:43 PM
chim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e=mc2 View Post
Some ornery screws and small fasteners are often best left to a competent DIY guy or gunsmith to remove. Heat does play a major role in removing a tuff screw. Did i understand your post correctly that you put your pistol in the oven to heat it up? I sure hope not!
To me, the post read as though he put the WRENCH in the oven. Hope that assumption is correct ......................chim

EDIT TO ADD: I'm an incurable barrel remover. One of my Brownings has a recoil spring guide rod that is too long to allow slide removal without getting the barrel out of the way. I prefer to leave the optics attached to the barrel and undisturbed. I've been known to swap barrels to different frames instead of swapping the grips. Not so much a case of either preference being "wrong".

Last edited by chim; 01-10-2008 at 02:48 PM.
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  #30  
Old 01-10-2008, 03:31 PM
alleyehave

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No, I didn't put my gun in the oven lol..I put a wrench in the oven, then used that to heat the screw in the triggerguard then used a different allen wrench to attempt to loosen it, that was the one that broke off inside...It's quite the pain cause I can actually twist the %%%% piece inside, flip it over and everything else, but I cannot remove it..I need the worlds largest magnet to remove it...

Nate
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