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  #1  
Old 09-06-2007, 09:42 AM
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Lightbulb Marlin Bolt Action Trigger Modification Reference



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These are a few of the most helpful threads that I found that tell you what you can do to improve the trigger on your Marlin bolt action rifle.

Once you have read through these threads you will see that most of the information comes from our RFC member, DKemper.

Trigger Work - Tincody

Marlin Trigger Trick - cz452shooter

The Ultimate Trigger Fix - Dave B

Marlin 917V Trigger Job Help Please - ss monte

Rifle Basix Trigger / 925 - jonnybegood

Marlin Rimfire Bolt Rifle, Parts List; Schematic (900 Series)


If you find another helpful thread that I omitted, please include it in this thread.
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Last edited by OldWolf; 06-11-2013 at 08:59 AM. Reason: Update
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Old 09-10-2007, 03:18 AM
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also to add

rifle basic issues
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  #3  
Old 02-21-2009, 09:02 PM
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Anyone done a trigger job on a T-900 yet??

Love to see a separate post on that
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  #4  
Old 02-22-2009, 11:12 AM
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The above tips apply to the T-900 too!
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Old 05-07-2009, 10:25 PM
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marlin 980

will these trigger jobs work on a marlin 980
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  #6  
Old 05-08-2009, 12:23 PM
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Yes.
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Old 06-06-2009, 02:52 PM
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Outstanding post. I just did a trigger job on my 917 following the instructions in the links and now it went from a dump truck required to break to a small Honda and it's crisp as it can be.

2 thumbs up from me.
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:35 PM
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925 with rifle basic trigger pictures

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...ifle+basic+925
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  #9  
Old 12-04-2009, 02:41 PM
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That's a good set of pictures. I've never seen a Rifle Basix trigger so thanks for posting.
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Old 12-29-2009, 09:25 PM
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Question 2000 Sear

I have been checking Numrich for a 2000 sear for my 981T. They have been showing that they are out. Anyone that has a lead as to where I can find one please let me know.

Thank you,
Fred
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Old 01-10-2010, 02:42 PM
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Thumbs up Thanks!!

Installed a ball point pen spring in my old 25N - even trimmed it down a bit -- and it works GREAT!!

A lot lighter. Crisp. Smooth!

Also interesting in that I hadn't had the action out of the stock in many years and was impressed with how tight and well-made the trigger mechanism is in general. For an inexpensive gun, the sheet metal assemblies and their fitment is excellent and robust.

Very eager to take it out now and see how much better I can shoot with it. The old spring was quite a bit stronger and made for a hard pull.

Thx again - appreciate the sticky!

Last edited by shootr; 01-10-2010 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 05-07-2010, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootr View Post
Installed a ball point pen spring in my old 25N - even trimmed it down a bit -- and it works GREAT!!

A lot lighter. Crisp. Smooth!

Also interesting in that I hadn't had the action out of the stock in many years and was impressed with how tight and well-made the trigger mechanism is in general. For an inexpensive gun, the sheet metal assemblies and their fitment is excellent and robust.

Very eager to take it out now and see how much better I can shoot with it. The old spring was quite a bit stronger and made for a hard pull.

Thx again - appreciate the sticky!
I used the pen spring mod on my 982 VS, it is great. Thanks

Last edited by 420rearwheelhp; 05-07-2010 at 04:46 PM. Reason: model of rifle
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Old 05-30-2010, 10:49 AM
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917 trigger job

Just a brief line to say thanks to everyone who has posted advice and guidance on modding the 900 series triggers and the paper mate spring trick.

I have just done my 917 following all the instructions and the result is excellent

Initially I tried making a shim to fit under the sear spring - however with shim in place the sear did not move sufficiently when pulling the trigger to be able to get the bolt in and out easily. (the shim was 2.2mm)

I then removed the shim and replaced the trigger spring with a paper mate spring.
One thing I must emphasise - that little circlip on the trigger retaining pin really takes off After 10 minutes of searching the floor I resumed work
I found there was some lateral play after I had done this, so a gentle squeeze with some pliers on the alloy housing got rid of any play.

The pull is now around 2lbs - no noticeable creep and a crisp let off.
What more could you ask for.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 06-13-2010, 09:01 PM
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firing pin modifications Marlin 917

I recently purchased a Marlin 917 in .17 HM2 calibre, and it had a fairly heavy trigger pull in the 5 pound range. Following the sticky, I located a pen that had a spring the same length as the Marlin spring.

I then disassembled the trigger mechanism, CAREFULLY stoned the engagement surfaces to get rid of the roughness, and took a small nail that fit inside the sear spring, filed down the head to fit inside the recess hole, and cut it to approximately 1/4 inch long shank with about 1/32 thick head inside the hole. This improved the trigger pull to about 3 pounds....not bad for a hunting rifle but still a bit heavy for my personal taste.

Next, I thought about lightening the firing pin assembly, to create a faster ignition time. I had previously lightened a Savage Mark II firing pin and shield and it worked well....no misfires, etc.

So I disassembled the firing pin assembly from the bolt, chucked it into the lathe, center drilled it, and drilled it with a 7/16 inch drill, approximately 9/32 inch deep. I then used a 7/16 flat end mill to square the bottom of the recess.

The lighter firing pin assembly should give faster ignition time. It also brought the trigger pull down to about 2 1/2 pounds. I can live with that on a rifle used primarily for hunting gophers. Yes, I know all about warranty on altered rifles, but this rifle, bought a month ago, although NIB, was over four years old. I bought it over the internet, on a Canadian Gun Website.

This weekend, I put 600 rounds through it, without a misfire or failure to fire of a single cartridge. I used Hornady ammunition. Shots were taken out to 200 yards, and a very high percentage of hit obtained at extended ranges. A mildot scope helped figure out the trajectory, and the trigger system was a vast improvement compared to the original one. I am not advocating that everyone do this, but for me, it worked well.

My next project with this rifle is an overtravel adjustment for the trigger. As I have a good workshop, and metal working machinery, I am considering a couple of designs right now.

.
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  #15  
Old 06-15-2010, 08:39 PM
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917 Marlin trigger overtravel

Well, as mentioned in a previous post, I was looking into a way to cut down on the overtravel of the Marlin 917. Although the T-900 Marlin trigger is an improvement over their previous offerings, it still leaves much to be desired. (I sometimes think the 900 stands for trigger pull....9 pounds and 00 ounces).

After using the 917 Mach 2 on Gophers this weekend, I was a bit annoyed with the overtravel once the trigger was pulled. Being an Amateur Gunsmith, and old target shooter, I appreciate a good trigger and not too much overtravel. I also thought the pen spring was a bit light, so I got out the files, stones, and ceramic rods, and started to work on the sear and trigger mechanism. It now breaks nicely at a hair over 2 pounds, with the original spring in it.

But that overtravel.....it was almost enough to make me tear out what hair I have left, and at 69 years old, that is not a lot of hair.

In looking at a way to put an overtravel adjustment screw into this rifle, it suddenly dawned on me that THE TRIGGER GUARD COULD BE REVERSED. I took the screws out of it, reversed it, and it came within 3/16 of an inch of lining up the holes.

Thinking, "O.K. A trigger guard can't cost all that much if I screw one up.", I got out the Dremel tool with a 1/16 inch diameter x 3/8 inch long burr, and VERY SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY started to cut out the trigger slot in the cast trigger guard. Trial and error. Cut a bit, then fit. Finally the trigger started to move slightly, and a few more minutes with the Dremel and some small files to square up the slot, the trigger had enough clearance to fire the rifle, and about 1/16 inch overtravel. I can live with that.

An unexpected bonus is that I think the rifle looks a bit more pleasing. The trigger is now situated within 3/8 of an inch of the rear of the trigger bow, not in the middle of it, and the slightly larger end of the trigger guard bow is now in the back end, giving a bit of an upward sweep of the trigger guard bow towards the front. You also do not have to reach so far forward with your trigger finger, as your middle finger is positioned less distance from the trigger to the back of the trigger guard.

The DOWNSIDE.....because of the close fitting, to get this minimum overtravel, if you want to remove the bolt, you will have to take the trigger guard off so that the trigger will be able to be pulled fully back.

I can live with that. Particularly because of the enormous improvement of the trigger pull and reduction of overtravel.
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