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  #1  
Old 06-25-2006, 02:47 PM
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Complete Stock build instructions and pics



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Hello,
Ok, Here I go, I will now explain in details how I build my first 10/22 stock from plain wood. Let me first explain why I choosen to build a stock when there is so many great looking stocks availables. Why? Simply because I am a lefthand shooter. "There is a lot of available stocks for lefty out there" will you say, but I wanted a ambidexous stock because I like to exchange rifles with my friends when we go plinking. I also wanted a wood stock, no synthetic for me. So my options where really narrow and I decided to build my own.

I will try to be as clear as possible, but keep in mind than my primary language isnt english. If you have any specific questions, feel free to post reply with questions.

Before getting started, here a list of tools you will need:
surfacer, jointer, mitter saw, table saw, band saw, router, press drill, orbital sander, woods chisels, wood clamps and a good work bench.

Getting started


Choose your wood, I decided to work with walnut.


Plane your wood to the correct thickness. I decided to go the same thickness as the factory stock : 2 1/8"


Choose the alignement of the stock according to the wood grain.


Glue your wood and clamp together. Put a lot of glue and compress with the more clamp availables to avoid gaps between wood.
(I didnt found 2.5" thick wood so I decided to glue together 3 pieces of wood. Ignore this step if you have one piece of wood)



While the glue dry, it is a good time to make a replica of the factory stock. It is important to include in the replica the exact location of the buttom hole for the trigger housing and the magasine. Also make a mark where the takedown screw is located.


Be sure than the barrel channel is perpendicular with the table. I simply put a nail between stock and table to acheive this.
[IMG]hhttps://i.imgur.com/TGL7xoZ.jpg[/IMG]


With a square, work your way around the stock, when the square touch the stock, make a mark on the paper. Do narrow marks in the curves. simply join the marks to obtain a replica of the stock.

Last edited by oli; 04-11-2019 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 06-25-2006, 02:48 PM
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Draw the modification you want to get in your stock directly over the factory design. If you want a receiver hump, it is important to keep the thickness of the hump on the full lenght of the stock, as you can see on the second img.



Cut down the final work.


Back to the wood. With a jointer, plane the wood to get a perfectly flat side. This will be the top of the stock. On the table saw, cut the opposite side to obtain another flat side. This will be important later. With a miter saw, cut the 2 other ends to get a perfectly square piece of wood.





Draw your design over the wood with a sharp pencil.


Cut your stock with a band saw, keep the pieces of wood that remains.


With a miter saw, cut the end of the stock where the barrel is to the appropriate angle. (I choosen to go at 22.5 deg)

Last edited by oli; 04-11-2019 at 10:07 PM.
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Old 06-25-2006, 02:50 PM
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You should now have something looking like this:



Inletting


Now the fun part begin. The rule who must be applied while inletting is : mesure twice and cut once. 1/32" dont look offset on a bridge, but it sure does on a 1/4" piece of wood, so be carefull and extremely precise.

First draw a line in the middle of the entire lenght of the top and bottom of the stock.


Determine the exact location of the hole for the takedown screw.


Sit the stock on the remainings pieces of your wood board, this allow you to be levelled without building a jig.


With a press drill, drill the takedown screw hole the same diameter as the factory stock.


Here something you will find very handy: this is the exact mesurements for the holes you need to acheive. Left for the top, right for the bottom. I scanned those to the exact size, so print them, or simply duplicate with thoses mesurements.


Determine where the receiver will sit and with forstner bits on press drill, remove wood in the hole for the receiver. This is only to remove excessive wood, so dont remove too much. set the deepness of the hole not to take too much.



do the same thing for the hole of the trigger and magazine. Remember than there is 3 different width of hole.


Last edited by oli; 04-11-2019 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 06-25-2006, 02:59 PM
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I really had a hard time figuring how to do the rounds edges on the corners. The answer is quite simple. You simply have to use a router knive of 1/2" diameter and it will do the job. Here is the tool I used on my router. This is a guide and a straight 1/2" router knive.


Here is what the jig for the router look like. Quite simple in fact. This is a picture of a test I made before working on the stock. I recommend than you do the same.


Secure th stock in a work bench, be sure than the top of stock is equal to the vise


Pin the router jig over the stock. be very precise here.


With your router, cut the wood following the jig. I suggest you do this in multiple strokes, increasing the depth of the blade progressively. dont forget the excess left for the receiver hump. Here is what it should now look like.


now the bottom hole. Here is what my router jig looked like. we now change the blade for a long trim bit who will follow the jig. the jig will be under the stock.



Do some test on scrap pieces of wood, when you are satisfied, secure the jig with a pingun.



Attach the jig under the stock. be very precise again.

Last edited by oli; 04-11-2019 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 06-25-2006, 03:00 PM
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put the stock in the work bench again. you can see here the long trim bit, set his height to allow the bearing to follow the jig.


Here is what you should get:



Well, enough for today, I will continue tomorow... I hope this will be of any help to some of you.

Oli
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Old 06-25-2006, 03:03 PM
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Pretty awesome post.
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Old 06-25-2006, 03:08 PM
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This needs a sticky...
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Old 06-25-2006, 04:35 PM
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Terrific post.

Great pics. Excellent post. wish I had taken the time to make jigs for the inletting.

Rod G.
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Old 06-25-2006, 05:29 PM
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Thumbs up That is the way to do it!!!

Wow... That looks like a really efficient way to inlet. And if the jigs are made accurately it should come out smoother than trying to hog it out with a dremel. I was thinking about modifying the factory stock, but I can do everything you have done so far, so maybe I'll actually try to get a blank !!!

That is going to be a really sweet stock when it is done!

Also, and I'm sure you've thought of this, but you can probably cut the barrel channel with a half-round router bit and a straight edge. Are you going to do a .920 barrel?

Last edited by Sicarii; 06-25-2006 at 05:33 PM.
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  #10  
Old 06-25-2006, 07:20 PM
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Very cool. Thanks for the "HOW TO". This post is extreemly "sticky" worthy.
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  #11  
Old 06-25-2006, 07:22 PM
riggins
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Agreed

Quote:
Originally Posted by deadwood83
This needs a sticky...
I agree this needs to be a sticky and the pictures need to be archived.

oli; Thank you very much. This is a very inspiring post.

riggins
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  #12  
Old 06-25-2006, 07:26 PM
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Sicarii, you are right on, this is the way I went to do my barrel channel. This build is already completed, I simply didnt had time to write a complete post. I will try to complete the instructions asap.

here a pic of the completed rifle:



Oli
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  #13  
Old 06-25-2006, 07:29 PM
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wow
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Old 06-25-2006, 08:30 PM
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I'd be the 'loose nut' behind the trigger...
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That is awesome!
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  #15  
Old 06-25-2006, 08:40 PM
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Ladies and gentlemen...

here is a man, oli by screenname, who KNOWS how to use a router.

From edges to barrels, he's got it all.
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