Not sure what's different, but I have tried three different bolt buffers in my TD that dont fit.
They all fit perfectly in my regular 10/22, but are way too big for the TD. I have the stainless and synthetic stock.
Anyone else experience this, and find a buffer that fits?
my guess is your take down rifle just has more paint build up in the buffer hole than your others. If it was me Id try a little wax or mild water based lube on one end of the buffer and try it. Something like Imperial maybe. Some of the buffers are kind of gummy.
if the steel bolt stop pin from your other 10/22 will fit in your TD, then the diameter of the hole in the receiver is the same, so the aftermarket buffer should fit
may have to cut a bevel on the end of the buffer to get it started in the hole
Not sure what's different, but I have tried three different bolt buffers in my TD that dont fit.
They all fit perfectly in my regular 10/22, but are way too big for the TD. I have the stainless and synthetic stock.
Anyone else experience this, and find a buffer that fits?
Bit frustrated with this one.
I purchased a 3-pak of buffers from JWH at same time I got a bolt & other stuff. Only one fit my new TD properly.
But, I have also experienced that with some of my other [non] TD 10/22's as well.
Worst case scenario, drill out the bolt buffer hole a little bit till one fits snug.
I purchased a 3-pak of buffers from JWH at same time I got a bolt & other stuff. Only one fit my new TD properly.
But, I have also experienced that with some of my other [non] TD 10/22's as well.
Worst case scenario, drill out the bolt buffer hole a little bit till one fits snug.
Carefully - it's easy to take just a bit too much off....
I opted for using a 1/4" rod, cut a couple rough length, sanded a small bevel in the end, and actually had to thin one just a bit for one of my TI receivers (was too snug)
I had a little trouble with one of my Feddersen receivers being too tight to get a buffer in. Tried a few different ones. I ended up going to the hardware store and buying some fuel line and steel roll pins and made my own. Fits fine now. Unfortunately the roll pins could only be bought in a 500 pack and the gas line 5' length. So I shouldn't have to worry about buying any more buffers in the next couple hundred years or so.
I still gotta try the hardwood dowel out.....
IF you choose to enlarge the action holes fractional size drill bits are not the proper tool. Number size would be better but an adjustable reamer is the correct tool.
Silly question, but why do we need them? Doesn’t the charging handle limit bolt travel?
Pretty much, but the charging handle can go back far enough for the bolt to slide out of the receiver rails. My bolt used to hit the buffer quite a bit when I was using OEM handles and springs. Now that I use Kidd's in all of them I don't think they hit too much if any. Still would rather have it there just in case.
Carefully - it's easy to take just a bit too much off....
I opted for using a 1/4" rod, cut a couple rough length, sanded a small bevel in the end, and actually had to thin one just a bit for one of my TI receivers (was too snug)
Silly question, but why do we need them? Doesn’t the charging handle limit bolt travel?
"Officially" they eliminate the "clacking" sound the bolt makes when it contacts the factory metal part when cycling.
"They" go on to say that repeated "blows" to the factory metal part will cause the hole in the receiver to become elongated.
Aftermarket buffers only cost a couple $$, so everybody installs one & enjoys the piece of mind.
I was already ordering a bolt from JWH Custom because..
(1.) I've always wanted one of they're 2nd amendment bolts & (2.) they were on sale for $69, normally $99.
Already had 5x JWH bolts, all work flawlessly - getting one of my favorites for $30 off was a no-brainier.
Anyways, adding a 3-pak of buffers to the order didn't affect ship costs, so what the heck. Ended up using all 3 PDQ.
I think those holes are leftover from the casting process, and that they throw a pin in to make it look complete. Then some other guys say you need a $.005 piece of plastic for a $1.00. Or $2.00 .
I think those holes are leftover from the casting process, and that they throw a pin in to make it look complete. Then some other guys say you need a $.005 piece of plastic for a $1.00. Or $2.00 .
Well, I guess it's about the cheapest thing you can do to a 10/22 I have them in all my rifles too.
I think those holes are leftover from the casting process, and that they throw a pin in to make it look complete. Then some other guys say you need a $.005 piece of plastic for a $1.00. Or $2.00 .<img src="https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif" border="0" alt="" title="EEK!" class="inlineimg" />
The first upgrade I ever made to the first 10/22 I owned was installing a VQ hammer and a poly buffer. The first time I shot it I could hear and feel the difference. Before with the OEM buffer it would make a little "clank" noise every shot. I should ad that I was shooting HV ammo mostly at the time and that may be the reason. I never really thought about it after that, I just put an aftermarket buffer in every 10/22 I put together. For as little as they cost I don't really see a reason not to use one. Function wise I'm sure you can run a 10/22 with the OEM steel buffer for 100 yrs without ever having an issue.
Linear Mode
