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  #1  
Old 06-16-2016, 09:32 PM
Luvthemtorts
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Sighted in 77/22lr now what



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Just got done sighting in the 77/22lr I picked up In trade yesterday. The fellow I got it from said it would shoot 1 inch groups at 25 yards and he was right. After trying several different types of ammo it became readily apparent that this was all I could expect from the gun as it sat. After doing a closer examination I noticed the end of the barrel shifted around when picked up by the stock forend (so bad it made a creaking sound) or gently pushed from side to side so I cut two shims from a soda can and placed them directly above the sling swivel stud in the barrel channel. It was like magic I tell ya'! All the play was gone, barrel perfectly centered, and groups shrunk dramatically.
On to my question.
Now that I know the gun likes a bit of upward pressure how do I go about using bedding compound to make it permanent? The idea of leaving pieces of soda can under the barrel drives me nuts so I want them gone. Anybody have a link to a decent step by step video or website that outlines the procedure?
Lastly, would you guys be happy with these groups or experiment more before making a semi permanent change to the stock? I was using the blurry Tasco that came with the gun and fighting severe parallex the whole time so I think a Weaver V24 would aid in shrinking the groups even more but I don't want to make the mistake of doing the pressure pad if you guys think I should try other things.

Here are three 5 shot groups at 50 yards using Sinclair rest, rear bag, and perfect weather conditions. What say the hive? Call it good and proceed or try other things first?
Many thanks in advance!


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  #2  
Old 06-16-2016, 10:25 PM
Eric-WD
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If the front of the barrel is moving that much the action likely needs to be bedded. I would glass bed the action, with your shims to hold it in place, see how it shoots, then if needed i would shim the barrel with playing cerds till I got it to shoot then disassemble put some compound in front or behind the shims reassemble and let it cure
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:01 PM
Luvthemtorts
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I guess I should have rephrased it better. I don't necessarily think it's the barrel moving, I believe it to be the forend. For some reason Ruger decided to route a recess that runs partially down the barrel channel and makes the forearm flimsy. This results in the very end of the stock susceptable to pressure on the forearm from a shooting rest or even hand held torque.
The shims apply upwards pressure against the forearm, which in turn raises the barrel ever so slightly off the wood at the end of the forearm. The shims also fill the minute gap on each side of the barrel which makes it rock solid. I purposely tried to provoke a change in POI by jostling the rifle around, applying pressure at various areas of the forearm, etc., but the rifle remained dead on.
Now I need to find a step by step of how to add a pressure pad that looks professional. I want it to have nice straight edges and dye add dye to the bedding compound to hopefully closely match the stock finish. Can't seem to find anything on Google other than action bedding so still searching.
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Old 06-18-2016, 10:30 PM
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fiinally re-sighted my 1984 77/22 with CCI .22LR standard velocity for squirrel season after talking with CCI tech's I sighted in @ 25 yds which is "pointblank range " which runs 25 to 37 yds, and I'm clover-leafingthre ounds. Can't wait for SEPTEMBER!
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Old 06-19-2016, 12:53 AM
Eric-WD
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I wouldn't own a wood stocked rifle that wasn't glass bedded. accuracy is produced by consistency. a firearm in wood unless bedded by a top end stock maker just has too much movement. (then the humidity etc must stay the same or you have movement) Unless the rifle is touching the barrel, any movement of the stock for or aft is going through the action. It all comes back to the action.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...-prod1038.aspx

acraglas comes with dye for matching the wood.

Were it mine, I would bed the action, see how it shoots. if it didn't shoot I would then use tape to get nice clean edges, play dough to keep the epoxy where I wanted it and cards to shim the front end to the proper amount of pressure on the for-end and put a little bedding compound under the barrel so that when all the tape, play dough and cards were removed the barrel would have a nice pad to rest on.

Midway and other youtube channels have good videos on glass bedding, the forehand pad uses the same technique.

Good luck with your rifle.

PS. I have never taken apart a 77/22 and would like to see pictures, there are a couple of reasons to cut a channel, to lighten the fore end and try to move the balance back. or to provide a place to epoxy in a steel or carbon fiber rod to stiffen up the fore end.

Last edited by Eric-WD; 06-19-2016 at 01:01 AM.
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Old 06-19-2016, 06:10 AM
DaleSalmon

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One thing you can do to improve the rifle's performance is stop feeding it whatever you have laying around whenever you have it.

Test some ammo using a clean bore, shoot about 5 groups at 50yds.......25yds doesn't tell you anything.

Then clean it out and try a different ammo and repeat the process.

Shooting 25 rounds of copper plated, then another 25 of waxed subsonic, then another 25 of bare lead all in a single session and bore condition leads to erratic groups.

Once you test and find an ammo that groups good at 50yds.....stick with it religiously. Leave the bore fouled (don't clean it) until you see groups open up.

If you must change ammo, clean the bore out and start a new bearing surface in your bore. Keep it consistent.
-----------

If you want to stiffen it up a bit have someone cut a long narrow channel in your stock and epoxy/bed in a few cut down carbon fiber arrow shafts along with a sizeable barrel pad in the barrel channel.

I have a boatpaddle stock 77/22 stainless and it's barrel is completely supported by the stock and shoots awesome. Better than my spender target guns. I never mix ammo's in it and it is super reliable. I've dumped pigeons off barn silos at over 150 yards.

Last edited by DaleSalmon; 07-03-2017 at 05:47 AM.
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  #7  
Old 06-19-2016, 10:30 AM
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Almost all of my rifles are skim bedded, most even before I shoot them. Depending on what you are going to use it for, those groups look fine for a field gun.
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Old 06-19-2016, 12:16 PM
Luvthemtorts
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Thanks for the replies folks!
I took it squirrel hunting and did quite well with it. The accuracy seemed to be suitable for its purpose so I may just leave well enough alone and replace the shims with bedding compound instead of having the action bedded as well.
One thing that I did find rather distracting was the heavy trigger pull. It takes quite a bit of concentration to make sure the point of aim isn't shifted while waiting for the trigger to break. I believe I'm going to order up a Jard unit and see if that suites my tastes a bit more.
Between creating a pressure point, a lighter trigger pull, and a higher power scope, I am hopeful it becomes my go to squirrel rig for early season hunts.
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Old 06-20-2016, 04:18 AM
DaleSalmon

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I put a Timney in mine....worth every penny and easy to install.
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  #10  
Old 06-20-2016, 06:33 PM
Luvthemtorts
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Spent last night bedding the front of the action, skim bedding the tang, and floated the barrel the height of the shims that were under the barrel.
Turned out quite nice and just have a tiny bit of cleanup before she's ready to take to the range tomorrow. If it doesn't shoot as well as it did when I had just the shims I'll glass bed a pressure point back in the barrel channel.
Hopefully I'll have some updated range picks tomorrow evening.
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  #11  
Old 06-20-2016, 08:39 PM
Eric-WD
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looking forward to seeing how it shoots, 77/22 have a reputation of being hit or miss on accuracy, sounds like yours is accurate, you've got a lifetime rifle there.

Eric
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:34 PM
donie

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My 1989 era rifle, blue, walnut, with iron sights had many small problems, I tried to test the rifle after most every modification.
Bedding showed the most improvement, other then extensively reworking the stock barrel and bolt.
I added pillars, then spot bedded it, full tang area, the barrel retaining block, and a patch in the middle. I dont feel it needs full bedding, I may go ahead and do it later.
It has been a great hunting rifle for over 25yrs, only shooting Minimag HPs, standard ammo where the bullets driving bands are further back shot very poorly. I was able to machine the barrel face back about .026", and machine the barrels shoulder back .004", taking out excessive bolt play.
I read on a barrel makers site, to check the contact of the bolts locking lugs to the pads in the receiver. I found only the lower lug was making contact, I broke up a couple of small honing stones, glued pieces of stone to maple sticks, then worked the pads in the receiver until there was even contact.
I am very happy with the results, I dont have to buy a new barrel! The only slight problem is, long rounds like the CCI Stinger are hard to eject unfired if the now polished chamber is dirty.
Tightening up the accuracy of my rifle, made it alot more fun to shoot!
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleSalmon View Post
One thing you can do to improve the rifle's performance is stop feeding it whatever you have laying around whenever you have it.

Test some ammo using a clean bore, shoot about 5 groups at 50yds.......25yds doesn't tell you anything.

Then clean it out and try a different ammo and repeat the process.

Shooting 25 rounds of copper plated, then another 25 of waxed subsonic, then another 25 of bare lead all in a single session and bore condition leads to erratic groups.

Once you test and find an ammo that groups good at 50yds.....stick with it religiously. Leave the bore fouled (don't clean it) until you see groups open up.

If you must change ammo, clean the bore out and start a new bearing surface in your bore. Keep it consistent.
-----------

If you want to stiffen it up a bit have someone cut a long narrow channel in your stock and epoxy/bed in a few cut down carbon fiber arrow shafts along with a sizeable barrel pad in the barrel channel.

I have a boatpaddle stock 77/22 stainless and it's barrel is completely supported by the stock and shoots awesome. Better than my spender target guns. I never mix ammo's in it and it is super reliable. I've dumped pigeons off barn silos at over 150 yards.

And after a bore cleaning,shoot at least a couple of fouling rounds before putting it on paper.
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