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  #16  
Old 04-05-2011, 12:49 PM
1911Pistolsmith
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I can take a Springfield Armory Mil-Spec ,preform a trigger job on the stock parts and end up with a very crisp 2-3# trigger pull. I can buy an Ed Brown sear & hammer, do the trigger work and end up with the same results. The difference is the Ed Brown parts will retain the proper geometry much longer than the stock SA parts. After-market parts are usually manufactured to much higher standards, better materials and have more consistent heat treating than stock parts; hence longer lasting results.

For the average shooter modifying the stock trigger group of a 10/22 will likely provide good results if you have the proper tools and abilities. If you want your work to last as long as possible and/or want that extra competitive edge I am sure PC parts and others is probably the route to take. That is the reason I choose to try the PC Trigger Parts. JMHO!
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  #17  
Old 04-05-2011, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by cgv69 View Post
That is a cool video (Thanks) except for the most important part (re-cutting the engagement angle on the hammer) he uses some high dollar jig. How is the average shade-tree gunsmith handling that part?
I did mine using the first link Chaser put up, with a .125" drill bit in a drill vise..
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...letus+hungwell
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  #18  
Old 04-06-2011, 04:41 AM
counihan
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Missing sear adjustment screw

Kenny and 1911pistolsmith: I ordered a PC kit last week for my spring project rifle. My kit was also missing the sear adjustment screw and some of the shims. I have to admit that I was super dissapointed. This is my second PC kit and have reccomended them to anyone that will ask. I hope this is a temporary oversight and will be made right.
In response to the original poster: the adjustable kit is the way to go. Havingthr ability to adjust pre-travel is crucial. You can really dial in these kits. In terms of drop in kits, PC is top dog.
I hope that you and your boy get years of enjoyment out of your 10/22.
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  #19  
Old 04-06-2011, 05:19 AM
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Why not contact the company and mention the missing parts?
They might send you replacements.
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  #20  
Old 04-06-2011, 08:11 AM
cgv69
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I hesitated posting this thread but I'm glad I did because it was very informative! I see as usually there are some pretty strong opinions on both sides (re: buying after market parts vs. tuning the factory parts) and that's good as I always like to read both sides of the story.

I am going to go with the PC kit (w/ adjustible sear) for my sons rifle and see how that goes but I also have 2 other 10/22's projects and will attempt to tune the factory parts on at least one if not both of those builds so all of the information posted here will come in handy!

Thanks guys
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  #21  
Old 04-06-2011, 04:03 PM
1911Pistolsmith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GundaGuy View Post
Why not contact the company and mention the missing parts?
They might send you replacements.
As I stated in Post #10, I emailed PC late Monday evening, received a reply on Tuesday that they were mailing a set screw and received 2 set screws & 1 allen wrench today. Randall corrected the problem very fast. Great Service!
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  #22  
Old 04-10-2011, 03:27 PM
Randall Power
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Missing Screw

Hello To everyone,
Yes, we had a couple of Adj. Sears make it out of here without the screws. It was a mistake. If anyone is missing the screws just call us at 1-573-372-5684 or drop me an e-mail and will send them to you at no charge. We strive to have the best customer service in the business. Alway leave a message if no one answers with your name and addrss. Thanks again everyone for using Power Custom products. Our customers are number 1.

Also if anyone is looking for the best 10-22 Trigger Guard on the market we are making the new Grandmaster trigger guard with a push forward and pull back safety. Fully CNC machined. We now have them avaliable with the CST Last Shot hold open. They are $319.95. We have these in stock and ready to ship.

http://powercustom.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=990

Thanks Again everyone,
Randall Power
e-mail: [email protected]

http://www.powercustom.com
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  #23  
Old 04-10-2011, 06:36 PM
kseatm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randall Power View Post
Hello To everyone,
Yes, we had a couple of Adj. Sears make it out of here without the screws. It was a mistake. If anyone is missing the screws just call us at 1-573-372-5684 or drop me an e-mail and will send them to you at no charge. We strive to have the best customer service in the business. Alway leave a message if no one answers with your name and addrss. Thanks again everyone for using Power Custom products. Our customers are number 1.

Also if anyone is looking for the best 10-22 Trigger Guard on the market we are making the new Grandmaster trigger guard with a push forward and pull back safety. Fully CNC machined. We now have them avaliable with the CST Last Shot hold open. They are $319.95. We have these in stock and ready to ship.

http://powercustom.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=990

Thanks Again everyone,
Randall Power
e-mail: randallp[email protected]

http://www.powercustom.com
Thanks. Will give you a call Monday. Was going to order some setscrews from McMasters, as I was thinking maybe I had to supply my own setscrew.

It's nice to have this kind of customer service these days.

Kenny
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  #24  
Old 04-10-2011, 06:45 PM
kseatm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMoneyTT View Post
Honestly, I have used both the VQ and PC hammers, and the PC sear, and am not really impressed. Compared to the factory trigger, the pull is a lot lighter, and with the adjustable sear, most of the pre-travel (or take-up, depending on your vernacular) can be dialed out. However, I find them to break no crisper than the factory parts, and they have a similar amount of creep and sear engagement. The adjustable sear will only remove pre-travel, but has zero affect on sear creep. I ended up stoning the contacts, not because they were not smooth enough, but because of the large amount of engagement and the creep it caused.

In the end, I got the best trigger by reworking factory parts, changing springs, and adding an over-travel screw through the back of the trigger guard. The only parts that I used that were bought aftermarket were the sear shims and the hammer shims.

I would highly recommend you save your hard earned money and learn how to stone just the hammer. You can definitely get better results with a hand-fitted part than you will with a drop-in. Even if you manage to screw it up and have to toss the hammer, you haven't lost anything since you were going to buy a new hammer anyway.

If this kind of work interests you, this is a good starting point. If it doesn't interest you, then buy the PC or VQ hammer, or better yet, have a competent smith do it for you as long as the price is reasonable. Also, if you do later decide to remove the pre-travel as much as is possible with a stock group, the jb weld trick works like a charm, and costs almost nothing. I got results as good or better than with the adjustable sear.

I think that it is easy to get the 10/22 trigger to a much better level, as long as you aren't expecting it to feel like a precision trigger. I have dropped the hammer on the VQ full group, and a Timney and felt they were not any better than a proper job done on stock parts. If you want to spend some money upgrading the gun, I would go with the tech-sights upgrade to get rid of the crappy factory sights. If the trigger is really important to be nice, don't waste a lot of cash on trying to soup up the fairly poor factory design. Just save up and go with a Jard, Kidd, or PWS T3. At least then you know you got your money's worth.
I'm kind of like you. But to be fair, I'll wait for the screw, install everything again, and then compare. But I really like what I did on my own. Like I said, I winged it, and don't have any jig, just kept playing with a stone, installing and trying, then playing some more until it felt pretty good. I went from over 7 pounds to right at 2. Not too bad!

I will call Monday and order a screw, the kit came with the allen wrench so I'm good there.

After making a pillar, bedding the action and installing some rubber tubing under the barrel in front of the action, mine is really showing some progress. I'm in the 3/4" range now at 50 yards. This was with eley sport ammo. I've still got to play with the bedding, because without the barrel band, it still wants to rock a little in the stock. Must have been my bedding job... That's why I got this rifle, to play with and learn.

After I get this sorted, I'm going to try to lap the barrel. If I screw it up, I'll order a new one, but live and learn is my motto...

I've got a long way to go until it's finished, but I know what I want it to be, so it's all on me. Don't want to throw money at it, want to figure it out myself.

Kenny
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