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How To Do a Three Step Stain Finish

2K views 10 replies 8 participants last post by  'ol shooter 
#1 · (Edited)
This post originally appeared on The Surplus Rifle forum in 2009. It details how to obtain an even, uniform, dark stained finish on a hardwood rifle stock - Birch, Beech, and what is commonly referred to (incorrectly) as pallet wood (mystery hardwood). I did not write the original thread, and I also did not conceive this process. I have used this process with minor variations, and it works very well IMHO. The original poster was by a moderator at that forum who used the name candyman, and hailed from Denham Springs, LA (who I believe is a member here). To him goes the credit. Any additions that I made are in blue text.

The original thread begins:

This is a finish I came up with a few years ago while trying to get light color Birch stock to look more like Walnut. The problem with staining Birch is that it does not care for Oil base stains. You need to use a Water or Alcohol base stains. This post will show you how to combine the two stains into one good looking finish.

As always we need a victim and for this post we will be using a very ugly Savage 110 stock.
The stock is made of light color Birch and looks like it will have some nice grain in it.





First you will need a few things to work with.
Rubber gloves
Scrub brush
0000 steel wool
Fine sandpaper, 150 or 200 grit will work
A sanding block
Some old clean rags.
And here is what you will need to make the stock look good.
Wood stripper
RIT liquid dark brown #25 dye. (NOTE: It has been pointed out to me that RIT dyes contain salt, and may cause rusting of the rifle action and barrel when used in this manner. A dedicated wood dye/stain is recommended as a substitute)
Brown leather dye.
BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil).
And some good Tom's 1/3 Mix. (A mixture of 1/3 each real Turpentine, Beeswax, and BLO)







End Part One
 
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#2 ·
Part Two:

Once you have the stock all cleaned up you are ready for the first step of the finish.
Apply a coat of the RIT dye to the stock. This can be done with a foam brush, rag or paper towel. Do not cut the dye with water or alcohol, just put it on straight from the bottle.
Allow the dye to dry for about an hour. The stock will look like an old chocolate bar.
Then lightly buff the stock with the 0000 steel wool to remove any raised grain. If you buff too much the stock will become too light and you will need to apply another coat of stain and buff again.
This is what it should look like after you have buffed it.





Now for the 2nd step of the finish.
Apply a hand rubbed coat of BLO. Let it sit for 30 min. then wipe it dry.
As you can see the stock is taking on a nice brown color but it is missing that hint of red.





Now for the next step. The Alcohol base stain. Here is something you need to know. All brown colors have red in them. Birch tends to take on more of the red color when using a brown alcohol base stain. If you go with a dark brown leather dye, you will not get as much red due to the black in the dark brown.
Now apply the brown leather dye. You can use a foam brush or the dauber that is attached to the inside of the lid. If you use a rag or paper towel, they will soak up and hold most of the pigment in the dye and your stain will not work as good.
Apply a good coat to the stock and let it sit for an hour or more. The longer you let it sit the darker your color will be. You can wait from one hour to 24 hours. Then you apply another coat of BLO. Allow it to sit for 30 min. then wipe it dry. Be sure that you are wearing the rubber gloves. Some of the stain will come off and your hands will look funny.
What I have found that works best is to apply the BLO within a hour or two. If the stock is not dark enough for you then just apply another coat of stain.
Here it is after the alcohol base dye and then BLO after one hour.



 
#3 ·
Part Three:

Now for the hard part. You need to allow the stock to dry for 48 hours. You need to allow the time for the BLO to cure and lock in the stain.
Once you have allowed the stock to dry apply the Tom's 1/3 Mix. My 5 year old son, Isaac, loves to rub in the Tom's Mix. If you have never applied Tom's Mix, just read the can.
Well here it is after the Tom's 1/3 Mix was applied.





The natural color of the wood will have a lot to do with your final color on any type of finish that you apply.
Here are a few other stocks with the same finish on them.







 
#4 · (Edited)
Terrible Idea!

As RFC's resident stock and woodworking guru, the late NOREMF pointed out, using Rit dye is a terrible idea for gunstocks, as it contains SALT, which will eventually leach out and rust the rifle. Rit dye is meant for fabric, and not for gunstocks.

There are much better dyes to use that are intended for wood, and not for tie-dying tee shirts.

If George (NOREMF) were still alive, he would have immediately posted a refutation of this method. I now do so in his memory and on his behalf.

BRP
 
#6 ·
As RFC's resident stock and woodworking guru, the late NOREMF pointed out, using Rit dye is a terrible idea for gunstocks, as it contains SALT, which will eventually leach out and rust the rifle. Rit dye is meant for fabric, and not for gunstocks.

There are much better dyes to use that are intended for wood, and not for tie-dying tee shirts.

If George (NOREMF) were still alive, he would have immediately posted a refutation of this method. I now do so in his memory and on his behalf.

BRP
Noted. As I stated, I did not devise this process, but am merely reposting it.
 
#5 ·
I followed noremf's advice to use dye (obtained from a woodworking store) and was very pleased with results. Have yet to add final spray lacquer noremf recommended but will post photos once those projects are complete. As easy as they are to use, I am surprised more people don't use them as opposed to the other alternatives available. My guess is uninformed....we here on RFC were very lucky to have noremf and his knowledge for so many years. He is missed. Happy Thanksgiving to all!
 
#10 ·
The only way to guarantee an even color on birch or beech stocks is to color the sealer or finish coat with a good aniline dye. It is also a lot easier which is why that is how it is done at the factory of all rifle makers that use these types of wood. If you want to use rattle can lacquer as a final coat, you can buy Bullseye shellac and add the dye to that as the sealer coat applied with a brush. Not only does the RIT product have salt but as Noremf would tell you it will fade over time!
 
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