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  #1  
Old 04-26-2014, 07:40 AM
bigfish85
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Had a DIY build that jumped out of the Super Stock arena because I decided she should sport Tech-Sights. Some may remember this:



I liked the idea of the simplicity behind an Appleseed rifle, but after two trips to the range I decided it needed a scope. And in doing that I decided I'd also try some stock work. I stripped her down, lopped off the fore end tip, rounded it off and refinished as a blonde. Well, then I decided it needed a new barrel. I wanted to keep it looking somewhat stock, so when I saw a reasonably priced ER Shaw sporter in the Trading Post, I couldn't pass it up. However, I have two questions (see the end of the post)



- DIY trigger job
- DIY auto-bolt release
- DIY internal reset spring / overtravel screw in the plunger hole
- A bit of polish to the bolt
- Receiver and trigger group got a coat of Sim Guard (Cerakote)
- DIY stock refinish and fore end reshaping
- Added Bushnell 2-7x32 with Leupold rifleman base / Millett rings
- Added ER Shaw sporter weight barrel

So my two questions:

1) need a base that moves the scope forward. Suggestions? I have the Leupold on another 10/22 that is OK.

2) need help with the bedding/pressure pad/etc decision. I've read through the posts on bedding, rear hold downs, and the like. I'm looking for something that is fairly easy and fairly cheap. Pressure pad? What's the best way to go about that?


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  #2  
Old 04-26-2014, 03:16 PM
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Vincent
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Moving the scope is easiest done with "Extension Rings" Many ring makers (almost all of them) that make weaver style ring bases also make them in extension rings.

As for pressure pads I had used playing cards and ammo boxes to figure out where they need to be then used Glass bedding to put a permanent pad.

I now use inner tube rubber for most of my $2.50 will buy you a life time supply by buying a bicycle inner tube. I also bought an inner tube repair kit for about $3 from WalMart as the pieces of rubber are nicer and well shaped.

I have used a Dr Scholl gell rubber inner sole for shoes and that worked pretty well. Others have used mouse pads but I think the soft part in most of them is too soft but I have seen great accuracy using then.

Many things can be used but it is hard to beat the inner tube or the inner tube repair kits

Welcome back to SuperStock!!
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  #3  
Old 04-26-2014, 05:18 PM
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I ended up using the tube repair kit on one of mine. Cut up several of the smaller patches then glued them together with the supplied glue to get the final thickness needed based on where I wanted the pad.
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  #4  
Old 04-27-2014, 08:05 PM
bigfish85
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2nd hold down

Many thanks to user amblerrl for his help with the rear hold down.

I started by drilling a 7/64" hole in my stock and receiver



I wasn't sure what type of bolt/screw I wanted to use, but I remember I had the leftover bit and tap from my overtravel screw modification. So I used the provided #21 bit that came with the 10/32 tap. I then tapped the hole in the receiver



Two comments about that: 1) my angle was much too steep 2) my tap handle doesn't grab that small tap very well, so I use locking pliers.

The bolts I bought were hex head 1 1/2" 10/32. The 1" bolts weren't quite long enough and the 1 1/2" were too long. Well, much easier to cut some off than add, so I ran the bolt all the way through and marked what was coming through the receiver. Pulled the bolt out and chopped it using a cutoff wheel on my Dremel. Took two "trial and error" attempts before the length was just right. Again, don't want to cut too much off.

I countersunk the head using gradually larger and larger bits until the head would fit. I really wish I had proper bits for this and my angle wasn't exactly the same as the entire hole. OK though as it still works.

I then epoxied a smaller washer into the hole to help with the bolt head seating.



I'm worried that since my hole was too steep that I might not be doing as much as I'd like. Could the action still teeter totter up? I don't think so, but I wish I hadn't been so aggressive with my angle.

Feel free to tell me how much of an idiot I am for one reason or another

Thanks again to amblerrl!
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:23 PM
plinker4life
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I don't see any reason why the action would teeter up now. I think you did a great job! Now you have me wanting to try this on a build.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:39 PM
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she's back

thought someone had taken a picture of my rifle and posted it. looks good and I bet it shoots better now.
[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by amblerrl; 06-03-2014 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:47 PM
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I'm a strong believer in needing the rear of the action secured in some way. I have yet to try doing it as you and amblerrl have done but it sure seems like a great idea. I'm going to have to try that on the next build myself.

hey bigfish you just be careful of that amblerrl feller



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  #8  
Old 06-03-2014, 10:16 PM
TonyA
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Nice looking rifle bigfish85. And that's a pretty neat and simple way to take care of a rear hold down. How do you like the Bushnell? I was looking at that line of scopes last weekend. It helps to see one mounted on a rifle, looks good.

Tony
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Old 06-03-2014, 10:30 PM
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she's back

Quote:
Originally Posted by Que View Post
I'm a strong believer in needing the rear of the action secured in some way. I have yet to try doing it as you and amblerrl have done but it sure seems like a great idea. I'm going to have to try that on the next build myself.

hey bigfish you just be careful of that amblerrl feller
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  #10  
Old 06-04-2014, 12:50 PM
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Looks pretty good to me. It does not mean you might not still need a pressure pad.

I have a Remington Mod 700 in .243 Win and I put it in one of the earliest of the TRUE fiberglass stocks by Brown Precision. I glass bedded the rifle and as you probably know they already use 2 take downs but it came from the factory with a wood pressure pad as most sporters do. I have seen this in Ruger 77 and other centerfires too. They pay engineers good money to come up with this stuff and they MUST know what they are doing because when I floated the barrel it shot worse in the factory stock.

The Brown Precision stock did not have any pad but even though I did a beautiful bedding job (even if I say so myself) and it has two take downs it STILL shot better with a stack of cut playing cards under the barrel at the forearm tip

Many sporter barrels just shoot better with a little barrel pressure. It is like tricking them into thinking they as Varmint barrels

Your rifle looks great and it also great to have you back and your rifle back to SuperStock. I would like to change the rule on the sights but I doubt it would pass a vote on the subject. Our SS guys are kind of traditionalists and they like keeping things they way we started with them. I am not complaining because that means our original ideas on SuperStock being pure sporters were good ideas and have stood for over 8 years.

Welcome Back to SuperStock!!
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Last edited by Vincent; 06-04-2014 at 12:53 PM.
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  #11  
Old 06-08-2014, 09:08 AM
bigfish85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyA View Post
Nice looking rifle bigfish85. And that's a pretty neat and simple way to take care of a rear hold down. How do you like the Bushnell? I was looking at that line of scopes last weekend. It helps to see one mounted on a rifle, looks good.

Tony
Sorry, hadn't noticed the resurgence of this thread.

I like that scope just fine. I'm a big fan of Bushnell optics as I think they've got good glass for a very reasonable price. I really like the side parallax adjustment and target turrets. Haven't tried out the ranging reticle, but it seems slick...if it works that is.
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  #12  
Old 06-08-2014, 10:03 PM
TonyA
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No problem and thanks for the reply.

Tony
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  #13  
Old 06-09-2014, 09:02 PM
bigfish85
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Took a Leupold base and rings off another 10/22. Works well on this one:



Also got the trigger group back from the 'smith. Now it's "titanium" and matches the receiver.

Found a used VQ pic rail here locally and put that on the "other" (non-SS).


Feel as though I now have too many colors. Perhaps I'll have the base/rings and barrel coated with that titanium color too.
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  #14  
Old 07-03-2014, 10:48 PM
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I now use inner tube rubber for most of my $2.50 will buy you a life time supply by buying a bicycle inner tube. I also bought an inner tube repair kit for about $3 from WalMart as the pieces of rubber are nicer and well shaped.

Copied from above--

Never buy a tube of any kind. If you need thin tube go by the local bicycle shop and get a leaker out of their trash barel.

If you need a HEAVY one watch on the highway and get a piece ot truck tube.
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  #15  
Old 07-16-2014, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amblerrl View Post
thought someone had taken a picture of my rifle and posted it. looks good and I bet it shoots better now.
[IMG][/IMG]
Hi Amblerrl, I am wondering about your rear hold down modification. I assume you threaded a hole into the rear of the receiver. Being aluminum and kinda thin, have you had any issues pulling the threads out? Is there enough space to put a threaded insert in there, like a pim nut?
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