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  #136  
Old 04-08-2014, 09:21 PM
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I installed the YoDave kit in my 452Trainer this weekend. I measured the stock pull and it was 3.5#. I used the heaviest YoDave spring with the nut all the way down and the largest shim (red) and ended up with 1-1/4# pull with just a touch of creep. MUCH nicer.

I was going to adjust the nut up a little to raise the pull to around 1.5# but I wondered if the nut wouldn't just work down over time? Do they?

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  #137  
Old 04-08-2014, 09:26 PM
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There should be a little washer just above the nut. As I recall, the guide rod has flat sides, and the hole in the washer fits against the flat sides of the rod... that is to say, it will not rotate. You'll also note the nut has some notches on the side that faces the washer, and that the washer has matching bends to fit into the notches, allowing the washer to capture the nut and prevent it from turning.

Last edited by Sophia; 04-08-2014 at 09:28 PM.
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  #138  
Old 04-08-2014, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophia View Post
There should be a little washer just above the nut. As I recall, the guide rod has flat sides, and the hole in the washer fits against the flat sides of the rod... that is to say, it will not rotate. You'll also note the nut has some notches on the side that faces the washer, and that the washer has matching bends to fit into the notches, allowing the washer to capture the nut and prevent it from turning.
I had read this as well, but the post on my trigger is round with no flats - unless it doesn't run the length? I did see the notches on the washer and nut that line up to keep them in sync but nothing to stop the nut/washer combo from turning. I'll pull it down and look again at some point just to be sure.

I forgot to add earlier that I did learn something during the install. When grinding the flare off the front trigger pin and tapping it out, it ended up spreading the ears that the pin goes through. I didn't notice this until later when I was testing with different YoDave springs and shims. I was actually using the stock pin to slide in and test without driving the replacement roll pin in and out each time.

I noticed that the trigger had a LOT of creep and not matter which shim I used I couldn't get rid of the creep. The stock trigger didn't have any creep before I took it apart, so I was trying to figure out WHY it had creep now, even with the shims. Then I noticed that the ears were wide enough apart that the stock pin wasn't protruding out the side I ground the flare off of. It should have at least been flush but wasn't. I took some pliers and carefully squeezed the ears back together a bit until the stock pin was flush on the side like it should have been. Once I did this, the creep was drastically reduced.

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  #139  
Old 04-09-2014, 11:29 AM
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It's not necessary to grind that peened part of the pin. The problem people have in taking out that pin is that the peened end is not centered over the pin and hole, so the drive pin punch can't be aligned with the pin and hole. Starting with a pointed punch gets it started easily.
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  #140  
Old 04-09-2014, 02:37 PM
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I may pull it apart tonight and take a few pics of what I am talking about. I think others could be having the same affects I was and not be aware of the cause or correction.

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  #141  
Old 04-13-2014, 07:06 AM
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On my ultralux I Did the blue shim and silver spring and that was pushing the boundaries of what maybe safe. It holds . against tapping and light wacks of the reciver with a rubber mallet. But doesnt pass the knee high drop test. Not to sure what the pull weight is though.

I want to take a little more play out of the pull but it seems like the thicker shims go off to easily. I would like to step one shim up but am worried about accidental discharge. The gun would never be used in the feild only at the range shooting from the bench and standing postion.

Any advice?
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  #142  
Old 05-13-2014, 01:01 PM
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Bump test question?? I just installed a yo Dave kit on my 452 varmint. The trigger had little to no creep from the factory so I didn't use a shim and used the second heaviest spring. When I put the rifle back together I cycled the bolt with no problems then did the mallet bump test.. When I struck the butt once no matter how hard it would not fire. When I struck it repeatedly it would fire on the second or third strike. Is this something to worry about.. Should I go up to the strongest spring. Thanks for any help! And thanks to ok for the great tutorial!
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  #143  
Old 05-13-2014, 01:28 PM
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You may want to tighten the nut on the trigger spring rod if you have it installed, sounds like you're very close to right but a bit more pressure would likely do the trick.
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  #144  
Old 05-13-2014, 05:13 PM
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Thanks Gmd1950... Will give that a try. The nut was backed right off from the factory so there's lots of room to work with!
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  #145  
Old 08-05-2014, 10:01 PM
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Thanks, just got thru doing this on my new 455 FS. I could not detect any creep in the trigger from the factory, but went from 3.95lbs on trigger to 2.23 lbs. This is for iron sight silhouette and can't be below 2lbs at our club. Its now a really good trigger that I wouldn't have, if not for this article.

Thanks again,
Bill
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  #146  
Old 08-06-2014, 04:35 AM
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Had forgot that I swapped out my 455 A 22lr to the .17Hmr barrel recently.

Checked the trigger,,just for fun and it's still right where I set it at with the shim kit.
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  #147  
Old 08-13-2014, 07:25 PM
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I bought a 452 American some time ago and the Trigger as received was around one pound.

I just installed the blue tube on my new 455 American and the second spring and it is breaking abound 1 1/8. No creep. Further testing at the range required.
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  #148  
Old 08-29-2014, 09:39 PM
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SUPER PHOTOS' OF A HOW TO DO IT PROJECT .....
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  #149  
Old 11-23-2014, 04:13 PM
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installed one of my kits today. Only thing I would change is instead of a roll pin how about a small threaded pin with 2 nuts that the spacer could ride around? Much easier to take on and off and more secure. Heck a rounded off pin with C clips would almost be easier. The roll pins have to be 100% dead on lined up or else they won't go in. A rounded off end that you could push in w/out being 100% in line with the holes would make the install much simpler.
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  #150  
Old 01-03-2015, 08:49 PM
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When installing the front trigger pin back into position, is it folded back on the end that was driven out?
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