Dissecting a Buck Mark

[chim]

Kayl, that looks good. It will be more useful to people without having to open the pics separately.

Since I may be too familiar with the document to pick out things that could be stated more clearly (I know what I was trying to say, but did I really say it?) a good approach might be to go ahead and post it with a note that people should feel free to offer suggestions on revisions. Thank you for your efforts...............chim

[kayl]

Here's a link to a .pdf version of Chim's walkthrough. It's nice to save it to your desktop just to have handy at a moment's notice!

Right Click and "Save As"

[kayl]

Chim-
If I just want to replace the trigger, what parts do I need to remove/lock in place? (Other than the obvious like grips)

[MG-70]

In anticipation of picking up my used 5.5 Field, I'm studying this excellent contribution.

For those looking for dental picks (makes me cringe just looking at them), I believe Harbor Freight has them cheap.

Thank you Chim and RFC!

[jcb9901]

Thanks Chim,

very useful info ,I saved it to my computer

[razz]

Originally Posted by kayl

Chim-
If I just want to replace the trigger, what parts do I need to remove/lock in place? (Other than the obvious like grips)

I'd like to know also.

[chim]

Originally Posted by razz

I'd like to know also.

Grip removal and the parts under them is about the extent of disassembly required to access the trigger for replacement.

Remove either grip with the pistol flat on its side. When you lift the grip, note the position of the parts under it so you can put them back where they belong. Flip the pistol over and repeat.

You can dump some parts off of the pistol (mag button and its spring, slide release lever) by turning the pistol over and letting gravity have its way with them. Others (disconnector and its spring, mag disconnect - if so equipped) may need to be lifted off.

Looking at the left side of the pistol, there are two round holes in the frame right above the trigger. The top one looks empty from the left side, and the lower one is occupied by a pin. If you look at the right side of the pistol, you'll see the top hole has a pin sticking out that goes through the hole in the disconnector. Note how far this pin protrudes on the right side.

Take a drift punch and drive the disconnector pin out from left to right. Next drive the trigger pin out from left to right. The trigger will be free and fall out into the trigger guard.

If you're installing a trigger with an overtravel screw, insert the setscrew before installing the trigger. Clean the tapped hole and the setscrew with acetone or other evaporating solvent and give them a shot of blue Loctite. It's easier than waiting till the trigger is in.

Slide the new trigger into place and tap the trigger pin back in from right to left. It should roughly flush off with both sides of the frame. Now reinstall the disconnector pin. If you tap it in too far it will either bind the trigger by rubbing on the left inside of the frame, or it will lock the trigger by passing into the access hole you used for the punch. If it's not driven in far enough, it will drag on the inside of the right grip. Look at the grip. It will have a outed-out hole for the pin.

I usually adjust the OT screw in till the trigger won't drop the hammer, then back it out about 60° or so (adjacent flats on the allen screw).

Resist the temptation to mess with the pistol for at least a day See, an easy fix..............chim

[razz]

Thanks a lot chim!!! I'll try later this week.

[M2HB]

chim, great job with the tutorial for the Buck Mark.
No wonder why you are the Buck Mark Doctor.

[chim]

Thanks M2HB. I appreciate having you as a source for info on the classic Brownings.

We need to build an info base for those Challenger II's and III 's. I did manage to find a Challenger II and would like to find a III. They look really interesting...............chim

[<SLV>]

I'm getting an error message on the links in the first post (for the pictures). Am I doing something wrong?

[chim]

Originally Posted by <SLV>

I'm getting an error message on the links in the first post (for the pictures). Am I doing something wrong?

It isn't working for me right now either. I get an "access denied" message. The site (Hunt101.com) seems to work OK when going directly to the site. There have been some problems at times in the past, assumed they were at Hunt101................chim

[keepandbeararms]

Does anyone have a part number for the Pre-2000 Buck Mark Slide that has the ears? I've got a Camper made in '95 with the smooth slide and I'd love to get one with the ears.

Thanks,
D

[f.2]

Call Browning directly. Ask for Shannon, if not available, ask for Laura. They are the two best customer service parts reps for Browning. Ask any other cs rep for what parts you need to convert, say a Buck Mark Camper into a Varmint and they will say that they can't help you! Shannon and Laura will take care of you though.

800-322-4626 x863 for parts

Originally Posted by keepandbeararms

Does anyone have a part number for the Pre-2000 Buck Mark Slide that has the ears? I've got a Camper made in '95 with the smooth slide and I'd love to get one with the ears.

Thanks,
D

[chim]

Originally Posted by keepandbeararms

Does anyone have a part number for the Pre-2000 Buck Mark Slide that has the ears? I've got a Camper made in '95 with the smooth slide and I'd love to get one with the ears.

Thanks,
D

Yes. Here are three different slides from a few of my Buck Marks. The one on the left is probably like yours - a pre-2000 without ears. The center one is pre-2000 WITH ears, and the one on the right is from a current model.............chim

NOTE: f For some reason Hunt101 isn't working properly. If you get a box with a red X in lieu of a picture, right click it and click "Open"

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