I would recommend putting the sear back in place before the sear spring, although I'm sure it could be done in either order. It seems like it would be easier with the sear back in place first.
Got it back together. Putting the sear pin through the safety click plate was a b*tch. Well, I'll see if it holds once I get to go to the range the next time. On a positive note, the safety seems to work better now (although I don't really need it) and after Heggis' sear spring mod the trigger is lighter.
After I dry-clicked on some empty cartridges to test the functionality, the gun seemed to have some problems ejecting them when manually operating the slide. Might be that it works just fine with live ammunition, but if it does not, what should I look after?
Anyhow, thanks to chim and others for great advice.
The ejection difficulty with the fired cases could be due to a few different things. First one that comes to mind is that the fired cases are slightly larger in diameter than unfired cases. If they came from another gun with a larger chamber, there could be even more of a difference.
Second is a dirty chamber. A clean gun should pass the "plop test" with an unfired round.
Another is an extractor that just isn't grabbing the rim as well as it should. I have a few pistols that sometimes leave an unfired round (dud) in the chamber when the slide is pulled back. One of my Marvels frequently fails to remove a fresh round from the chaamber if I have a dud or want to clear the pistol. I blame it more on the chamber being tight and possibly some dirt. No problem when firing the pistols. The extractor doesn't really "extract" as much as it works in harmony with the ejector to flip the spent case clear of the action. I have a little Beretta that doesn't have an extractor at all - that's the way they're made....................chim
Does anyone know of a store chain (wally world, drug store, etc.) that sells the dental pick used to disassemble the recoil buffer and the recoil post? Or would the pointy end of a steak knife work?
I bought a set of 4 dental picks & a dental mirror on EBay for $8.50 + 2.50 shipping recently. They seem to do the job nicely. (I was a little disappointed because there are 2 each of 2 different style picks, not 4 different ones. And, each pick has the same style head at both ends. So, it is 4 picks, but only a total of 2 different style heads instead of a total of possibly 8. But, they seem to do the job and this way if one breaks, I have a backup. I got it from an EBay auction from "surpiesurpie" and he has more of the same.
They are also available on the web. For instance: http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/dental-scraper
has a bunch of different styles for $2 each, plus $3 shipping. I haven't bought from them, just found them by Googling before decided to get the EBay set.
Hey, who knows, maybe if you promise to floss, you're dentist will give you a used one!
I've had great luck accomplishing this step in a different way...
I raise the front of the slide slightly until the rod is accessible. Then I grab it with a small pliers and pull it free from the recessed area in the post. Has worked slick everytime for me.
Does anyone know of a store chain (wally world, drug store, etc.) that sells the dental pick used to disassemble the recoil buffer and the recoil post? Or would the pointy end of a steak knife work?
I've bought my collection of dental picks at a gun show. I got each item for 2-3 dollars each.
Well I finally got off my butt and shot / zeroed the Buck Mark Camper. The only FTEjects were with the SK standard - I'll save those for the CZ American. CCI standard and Remington Target Rifle Eley cycled like clockwork (factory BM magazines). Got the TacSol rail sights zeroed - started off pretty high and left.
Back from the range and I'm glad for this picture:
Of course the v spring, disconnector and spring, came out before I could see how they were oriented. No problemo with chim's pics!
Barrel screw was tight, but with a t-wrench it came out fine.
This is an easy disassembly I'd say. Didn't see the need to take her apart further.
My next zero will be with a TacSol 4" threaded bbl, then with the suppressor, then maybe a red dot.
I thank you for your effort in putting this all together.
It has helped me understand the Contour Lite I own and enjoy very much.
My 12 year old daughter loves the Contour. She really enjoys the reactive course with the steel targets.
Great Pictures and Info.....Thanks for the long hard work effort.....I 10th the STICKY!!!!! Thats too good of information just to only leave on a reply....Great for all of us to see.
You are all quite welcome. The goal was to provide some helpful info to fellow Buck Mark shooters. There's a good chance that another poster (who is more 'puter smart than I) will be posting a version of the original that has the pics included to make it easier to follow, and still have it "dialup freindly"...............chim
chim-
I finally got around to taking my buckmark partially apart tonight, and your instructions were a God-send! My only problem was that even with a dental pick, I couldn't get the plastic firing pin guide out. Since my recoil rod was already bent, I just used the rod to get out the plastic guide and slightly sanded down the sides. I took the mag disconnect out, but I put it back in since I'm moving and don't want to lose the small part! Thanks for the guide! Let me know if you want anything added to the PDF and then I'll post it!
Thanks for the guide! Let me know if you want anything added to the PDF and then I'll post it!
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