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  #16  
Old 04-27-2019, 04:11 PM
berettaprofessor

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Success, Buckweet! Replaced extractor, extractor spring holder, extractor spring, and cartridge guide spring. 3 tube mags (33 rounds) afterward were flawless; first CCI Mini-mag, then Federal Champion Crap, then Remington subsonic, all without issues.

Interesting experience. Sent a fax with the order into the ether on Good Friday, holding by faith that the fax number on the Browning website wasn't really connected to a machine in Nigeria where they would have been even more pleased to get my credit card info than the Browning parts dept. Checked on Tuesday and the credit card had already been charged by Browning. Parts arrived today (8 days after ordering), all packaged in separate small brown envelopes, each one with a label cautioning me that any injuries from non-factory fitted parts were on me. Not bad service for ordering just before the Easter holiday when the parts dept. was closed. Good job Browning Parts!

That extractor spring is sure a weak little thing. But the new one was way longer than the used one, so I'm betting either it was the culprit or the extractor was worn. Anyway, $26 including shipping and it's back in business!
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  #17  
Old 04-27-2019, 05:01 PM
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Glad to hear you got it working.
They are awesome little rifles.
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  #18  
Old 04-27-2019, 10:41 PM
Watsky
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I bought a used one a couple of years ago.
From the 70's .
As far as I know I'm the first to ever clean it.
When I broke it down I was amazed that it functioned given the amount of stuff in there.
Amazing.
The funkiest mess I've ever seen in a rifle.
I cleaned it and shot a few thousand rounds over the course of a year and broke it down and had very little to do in comparison to my initial cleaning, which is why I'm amazed that the gun ran at all, yet it was very clean externally.
Some folks never clean their guns I guess , yet wipe them down ?
A great design for sure.
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  #19  
Old 04-27-2019, 11:09 PM
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Very Happy with your success!!!
Enjoy your Rifle!!
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  #20  
Old 04-28-2019, 08:51 AM
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On the subject of cleaning, is there a trick to removing the forend wood from the barrel? I have removed the screw, but the wood is stuck there. Does the adjustment ring have to come off as well, or does the wood have to shift ahead/back before it can be lifted off? Confused...
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  #21  
Old 04-28-2019, 09:15 PM
berettaprofessor

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According to the video linked below, you should just remove the screw and the forend should lift straight off. There's a little "post" around the screw threads into the barrel. See the video around 4:20 or so.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CkyZv4_GB0
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  #22  
Old 04-28-2019, 09:30 PM
roddy

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Thanks...I have that video, and I've watched it several times. It looks like he slides it ahead a bit as he is pulling it off. That's why I'm confused...it looks so simple, but mine won't come off either way, and I'm afraid of using too much force. I'd have a tear if I broke something. It is a brand new rifle...maybe it's just stuck to that shiny clear coat that Browning likes to use...
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  #23  
Old 04-29-2019, 08:38 PM
berettaprofessor

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Curious, so I took the challenge. Roddy. and removed the forend screw from my 1994 Miraku tonight. The wood DOES lift straight off after you remove the screw, BUT not until you put the barrel lock into the "on" position, pushed forward, like in the picture below. When it's "off", or pushed back into the wood like it is when you're separating the barrel and receiver, it seemed to hold the wood in place.

Now, does anyone know the proper torque to replace the forend screw?

(I initially set my wrench to 20 in-lbs, but that seemed excessive as it was tightening so I reset it to 15 in-lbs).
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  #24  
Old 04-29-2019, 10:20 PM
roddy

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Quote:
Originally Posted by berettaprofessor View Post
Curious, so I took the challenge. Roddy. and removed the forend screw from my 1994 Miraku tonight. The wood DOES lift straight off after you remove the screw, BUT not until you put the barrel lock into the "on" position, pushed forward, like in the picture below. When it's "off", or pushed back into the wood like it is when you're separating the barrel and receiver, it seemed to hold the wood in place.

Now, does anyone know the proper torque to replace the forend screw?

(I initially set my wrench to 20 in-lbs, but that seemed excessive as it was tightening so I reset it to 15 in-lbs).
Thanks again. I have tried both ways with the lock, and no dice. LOL, it seems so simple. I'm beginning to think it is just stuck to that lug it screws into...there is zero wiggle/movement with the screw removed.
All I wanted to do was get under there and clean/oil. I'll figure it out eventually.
I'm glad you got yours figured out and functional...they're fun little rifles.
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