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  #16  
Old 01-16-2003, 06:41 PM
reg

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Excellent advice, guys. Thanks.

MD 10/22.The bore was already full of penetrating oil, and it is almost certainly badly scored. My heating and cooling has had no effect. I don't think a hardwood dowel would have helped. In my frustration last night I actually tried driving out the obstruction with a brass rod. It bent. I figured the bore is toast anyway so I tried a hardened steel pin punch. It bent. The obstuction did not move at all.

Time to try the lye. Then the acid. I will clean out all the oil with a degreaser first. If that doesn't work I am going to follow Antlurz' suggestion and saw the barrel in half. Just to see what's in there.

I can get another barrel for about $30, sort of like trying to buy a spare factory barrel for a 10/22. Its the actions for these rifles that are hard to find because people up here tend to destroy them with illegal homemade modifications.
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  #17  
Old 01-16-2003, 07:21 PM
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My guess is that however the rod hot jammed, once jamed the aluminum and steel contact caused the dissimilar metals reaction of electrolosis to start, further fusing the rod to the bore with a corrosion mess. Have fun, $30 bucks isn't too bad and it will shoot great.
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  #18  
Old 01-16-2003, 08:12 PM
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I see why it was free. ~Hope no one sends me any free stuff!!!~
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  #19  
Old 01-16-2003, 11:06 PM
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If you think a brass bursh is what is holding it in Sweets 7.62 might be worth a try.
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2003, 11:35 PM
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I would try the lye too, you could also use a drain cleaner like "The Works" or others that contain sodium hydroxide (that's lye right??). It will eat the aluminum, but will give off hydrogen as a by-product. Keep it away from open flames.

Jason
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  #21  
Old 01-17-2003, 08:52 AM
Goldie
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Lye MIGHT eat some of the aluminum away, but it will take a while. Muratic acid will DEFINITELY eat it. However it will ruin the bluing and probably take a layer or metal with it.

Here is what I would do......... Take it for what it's worth and if you try it and hurt yourself don't blame me! Cause I told you it's probably dangerous.

OK... here goes.



You said you can get a new barrel right?

So I would try melting it out with the acid, but want to protect the action.

Get a 5 gallon bucket and fill it with enough water that you can cover the action and stand the entire assembly up in the bucket.

Put a whole bunch of baking soda in the water to make a basic solution. This will nuetralize the acid and keep it from damaging the action.


Get a syringe or funnel so you can precisely control the amount of acid and gradually put an ounce or two of muratic acid down the barrel at a time.


Be sure to wear gloves and eye protection and do this outside. This will cause a pretty violent reaction and cause lots of foaming and gas to be expelled.

This should keep your action from getting damaged by the acid and get the rod dissolved.

Also the hotter the acid is the faster it will work. So you may want to try warming it up or cooling it down depending on how fast you want to get this done.


Anyhow, this may or may not work, but it's what I'd try. Protecting the action of the rifle is the most important thing. Chances are you're going to have to replace the barrel anyway.


Let me know if it works.
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  #22  
Old 01-17-2003, 09:17 AM
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You can get another barrel for bout 30 bucks.....go for it!

The few bucks another barrel will cost ya is a lot cheaper than all of the screwing around it'll take to TRY to get the old one free, and ya dont even know if the bore is any good.

Acid resistant matrix face shield: 22.95
Acid resistant gloves: 8.95
NIOSH Acid respirator w/charcoal cannisters: 29.50
Baking soda: 1.25
Acid: Depends on which type you go with, avg. 5.00 per .25 gal
OSHA approved 6 min emergency eye wash station: 295.
Medical cost should something go wrong: Too much $$ to think of
Your time: PRICELESS



Go buy the barrel, shooting is more fun than playing Dr. Chemist.
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  #23  
Old 01-17-2003, 09:25 AM
Goldie
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Another thought...

anyone know for sure how "EDM" electro discharge machining works?

I know that you can burn broken off steel taps out of aluminum this way. Maybe someone could to the opposite for you.

I'd probably just buy another barrel.

By the time you spend a few hours and a few dollars trying cheap ways you'll end up with more time and money involved than buying a $30 barrel.


Or you could just send it to me, that way you wouldn't have to worry about it anymore!
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  #24  
Old 01-17-2003, 10:05 AM
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hehe......You could use a Wire EDM to write the word "SCRAP" into the barrel!!
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  #25  
Old 01-17-2003, 11:15 AM
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$30 bucks? toss that piece of crap and put the new barrel on before you hurt yourself fooling with acid.
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  #26  
Old 01-17-2003, 05:13 PM
reg

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Wow, that's a lot of advice. I was kind of leery about the acid and hadn't tried it yet.

Sid, I really like your idea about the tubing. I can get a piece at a hobby store for a buck or so, and I already have the long drill bit.
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  #27  
Old 01-17-2003, 05:19 PM
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Why do I sense a Bob and Doug MacKenzie movie brewing here??

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  #28  
Old 01-17-2003, 06:41 PM
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Edited AGINST RULES no recipes for explosives
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  #29  
Old 01-19-2003, 08:38 AM
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Talking If you need

A strain anchor for a corner post, the barrel might be the ticket. Then get another one or just give up and get another rifle. Rmember who did this to the rifle in the first place and never, never let him clean a rifle for you.
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