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  #16  
Old 01-17-2003, 06:41 AM
BigMike

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Thumbs down Performing Below Expectations



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9x19,
Quote:
Anyone got a good number for Ruger Service?

I have a pair of Mini's I need to send back... One is a Mini 14 and the other is a Mini 30...

My Mini 14 shoots surplus 5.56mm ammo just fine, which I guess it shouldn't do... and then most all rounds group into less than 2" at 100 yards so something is also wrong there...

My Mini 30 shoots about the same... with both US commercial, and foreign surplus ammo...
You definitely have a problem there.......! !

Both rifles are 'performing well below expectations', and "Ruger" will probably want them back for rebarreling.....! !

"Ruger" Customer Service: 1-603-865-2442

Let me know how you make out, as mine is even worse.....! !
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  #17  
Old 01-17-2003, 08:25 AM
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Big Mike....

I KNOW there is a difference between .223 and 5.56mm. The military ammunition is loaded hotter. I've had 5.56mm ammunition malfunction in the .223 chamber.

I'd put the .223 in the 5.56mm chamber, because I know that's okay. Not the other way around, however.

I'd put .308 ammunition in a 7.62mm chamber...but probably not viceaversa. AFAIK the military's ammunition is loaded to the military's specifications, ie. slightly hotter than the civilian equivalent.

I'm not sure about .30-06. I've never seen anything saying there's a difference in the military and civilian loadings. I'll have to look into it.

bc
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  #18  
Old 01-17-2003, 09:19 AM
Lynxus

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Now if you will play nice this is a great site to find info on how to make a mini shoot much better for little $$,,,,trash the gun and you will be pounced apon though

I have two and they both shoot 2 -3 inch groups at 100 yards with NO modifications,, so far USA mags 30 round clips have worked to. when I get the time and a hundred bucks I will modify them both with the $100 to get better groups,,,1 1/2 inch groups would be nice, but they are still MO-Coydog as is.


http://www.perfectunion.com/forums/f...php?forumid=55
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  #19  
Old 01-17-2003, 09:20 AM
Lynxus

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and the mini 14 will eat any 223 ammo you stuff in it, that is one of its great points,,, the same for the mini30 and any military rounds of the right cal, both of mine are 223
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  #20  
Old 01-17-2003, 09:41 AM
ski

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.223 vs. 5.56 NATO.....

There has been mucho discussions concerning this topic.

They are not created equal.

SAAMI .223 chambered rifles should not be used with 5.56 NATO. The chamber could be too "short" for the 5.56 OAL.

You CAN use .223 ammo in a 5.56 chambered rifle.

ArmaLite chambers thier SS "Match" barrels with a "Modified SAAMI" chamber that allows the use of both. But, ya have to be carefull with some country's milsurp ammo as "over-pressure" could be a problem. They're not as "carefull" in their ammo manufacturing process.

IIRC...There aren't any issues with using .308 or 7.62.
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  #21  
Old 01-17-2003, 11:20 AM
Lynxus

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mini

the mini must be chambered for both then,,,never heard of problems with it.
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  #22  
Old 01-17-2003, 11:40 AM
BigMike

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Arrow Mini-14 Rifle Chambering

Lynxus,
Quote:
the mini must be chambered for both then,,,never heard of problems with it.
From a previous Post:
Quote:
AMMUNITION
The Mini-14 Rifle is designed to use either US Military (5.56mm) or commercial sporting .223 cartridges manufactured in accordance with U.S. industry practice.
[Instruction Manual for Mini-14 Rifle][Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.]
Now, with 14 Lawyers looking over their shoulder, I do not think they made that statement without first checking with their design engineers.......! !
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  #23  
Old 01-17-2003, 03:46 PM
MikeL
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5.56mm vs. .223:
This is a subject of many a thread on AR15.com. B Coyote's link (http://www.ammo-oracle.com/#diff) is definitely the best description of the difference I've seen. And even the barrel makers are confused. Some will chamber with one and mark with the other. (See http://groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR1...r15brands.msnw.)

Mini-14 vs. AR-15:
In my experience the Mini-14 is a 3-4 MOA gun at best. My AR will shoot 3-4 MOA with the *worst* ammo I could find, and under 2 MOA with everything else. The best was 1/2 MOA.

Cheap AR-15s:
Olympics Arms makes a model called the Plinker. Not the same quality as the higher priced ARs, but not junk either. There's a review at www.MD-AR15.com.

You can also build one for under $600. (Supposedly anyone can do it--I'll find out this summer. ) Read the assembly instructions at AR15.com. Get a "stripped lower" from your dealer. Should be about $125+tax. Then get a "complete kit" from someplace like http://www.jtdistributing.com/ for $435+shipping.
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  #24  
Old 01-17-2003, 04:23 PM
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Well I found one....Heres a review....

Saturday, I took a new Olympic Arms “.223 Plinker” out to the range to test it out and zero it in. I've heard a few unfavorable comments about Olympic from some quarters, and it seems that the only opinions on Olympic Arms rifles are strong ones one way or the other. This is simply a performance report for those who are interested. Your mileage may vary...

The Oly “.223 Plinker” is an entry-level AR-15 which has a suggested retail of $599. I was able to order mine for $529 plus $25 for a muzzle brake. Here’s what your money buys:

16" Heavy Barrel: 1x9 twist, 4140 chromeloy steel, unlined [Ed: SAMMI chamber at the time of the review in 2000]
Cast A2 lower & A2 upper receiver with A1 sights
A2 stock with trapdoor, Oly stowaway pistol grip.
All metal action parts
10 round PC magazine
Doskocil hard case
Sling
Lifetime Warranty; 60 day money back guaranty; one inch at 100 yards, one minute of angle accuracy guaranty
A pretty good manual

The .223 Plinker is essentially an Oly PCR-5 (Politically Correct Rifle) with some changes. The second line of the above description tells you how they are able to sell the rifle as inexpensively as they do: The unit’s upper and lower receivers are machined from castings with A1 sights, rather than a forged A2 or A3 set [Flattop]. The upper offers the brass deflector and a rounded forward assist. The barrel, trigger, and bolt groups are shared with the PCR-5. When the rifle was delivered, my dealer walked me through field-stripping and maintaining it.

For my first day out, I took PMC 55gr rounds. After blowing off ten rounds to get used to the feel of the rifle, I settled in to zeroing-in the sights. Fortunately for me, two lanes over was a nice military fellow named Jeff who had been shooting AR-15/M-16s for the last twenty years and showed some interest in me and my rifle. He’d brought his fine Bushmaster XM15 E2S Shorty AR-15 Rifle to the range with him. Right away, the visual difference between the cast and forged receivers was noticeable: The cast Oly looks a little more, well, rustic, because it doesn’t have the smooth surface of the Bushy. No problem. I have to say that Jeff was pretty impressed, given the price.

With my new friend helping, I learned to zero-in, starting with a little factoid which should help anyone trying to zero in an AR-15: Before starting, you should “flush” the front site by rotating it down until the flat body of the site post is flush with the rifle’s sight body. This gives you an idea where the rifle is actually shooting. My rifle shot two clicks low and a click left, but was dialed in easily. By the way, my new friend gave me the twenty-five meter zeroing-in target which came with his Bushy and it made the process a breeze. Get one if you can. Hint for Olympic. [Ed: download it from AR Manuals! ]

From there on, it was down to learning the two-stage trigger (I have mostly shot pistol) [Ed: This rifle should come with a Single Stage Trigger] and getting my stance and breathing under control. Let's see: touch nose to charging handle and back off. It has been a while since I fired a rifle. I was grouping pretty well after three boxes. The trigger seemed a little stiff, with a hard break, but we’ll see how it wears in. The only failures were two feed problems due entirely to silly operator errors. Apparently the muzzle brake worked fine because the barrel didn’t jump around too much. Mags dropped clear when the released was pushed and all operating functions were crisp and tight. By the way, using stripper clips made the whole Mag. reload thingy much easier. Afterwards, the rifle cleaned up and re-lubed easily.

So, to sum it up, it works fine, is pretty much point and click, and is more accurate than a novice operator.







I asked my dad what he thought about it and he said "Son why do you want to wast your money on that" Then my mom chimed in "Rick(my dad) if he wants to sweat his %%% off all summer mowing grass and babysitting let him. Then he can sit and look at it all winter and clean the thing a million times." So when i get the money I can have it. YEA!!!!!yes i was yelling!!! So does anybody know of any reason that I shouldnt buy this...BTW...are the AR's hard to clean and take apart?
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  #25  
Old 01-17-2003, 04:45 PM
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are the AR's hard to clean and take apart?
Nope.
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  #26  
Old 01-17-2003, 04:55 PM
ski

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"Oly", eh?

Oh, well.....ya gotta start somewhere.

M15 "field stripped" in less than 10 sec. No tools.

Last edited by ski; 04-24-2006 at 04:43 AM.
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  #27  
Old 01-17-2003, 04:58 PM
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B Coyote
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10 seconds, eh?

That's impressive.

Now put it back together blind folded with both hands tied behind your back while I play the Barney theme song. :P

You have three seconds.

GO!!

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  #28  
Old 01-17-2003, 05:45 PM
ski

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DONE!!

What was my time?

BWAHAHAHA!

[edited to add:]

Hey! wait a minute! I was perusing the "Member's Forum" when ya said "GO!"

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  #29  
Old 01-17-2003, 08:43 PM
Max Mike

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I think I would avoid the Olympic Arms Plinker.

There was a thread on AR15.com a few weeks back about an Olympic Arms Plinker the came apart. The thing broke in half before being fired. Link below:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.htm...92&w=searchPop
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  #30  
Old 01-17-2003, 10:19 PM
10/22

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Hmmm.....just sounds like it was a bad batch....aint goin to stop me!
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