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  #1  
Old 01-03-2016, 05:19 PM
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Picatinny Rail; inlet, bed, or ?



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My laminated 10/22 stock is curved (cross section) and tapered at the fore end tip. I'm planning on adding a short Picatinny rail to mount my bipod, and possibly leave room for a sling swivel. The two things I want to achieve are:
  • I want the rail to be parallel to the bore of the rifle (not angled to match the taper)
  • I don't want it to look like an afterthought (spacers, etc.)

The two options I can think of are to inlet the stock for the rail or use JB Weld to bed the rail, painting the bedding to make it look like it's part of the rail.

I see pros and cons for the former:
Pros: gives me an excuse to buy a nice sharp chisel to replace my mediocre ones; don't have to deal with the curve of the stock
Cons: risk of screwing up while inletting; rail I'm thinking of has a curved end, so will be difficult to match when inletting; may lose ability to use a couple of slots, depending on how deep the inletting needs to be.
For the latter:
Pros: if it's not perfect the first time, it can be redone
Cons: have to deal with the curve of the stock; might look less custom/clean by comparison
Inletting would be difficult (don't fully trust my chiseling skills), but straightforward. I may be able to reduce potential screw ups by masking off parts of the stock.

Bedding might be more complicated, but my thoughts would be to used some aluminum foil or wax paper, taped to the curvature of the stock, and coated with shoe polish. then using something to prop the rail up to the right angle, and using some tape to create a dam around the rail to hold in most of the bedding (JB Weld). After letting it set, I could file/sand the JB Weld flush with the rail, then paint.

Anybody done something similar to this, and if so, any tips? Thanks ahead of time for any insights.
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2016, 01:30 PM
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Is there a barrel-band on the stock?
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  #3  
Old 01-04-2016, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parshooter View Post
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Is there a barrel-band on the stock?
Nope. Looks like this:
http://oi64.tinypic.com/etfd3l.jpg
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  #4  
Old 01-04-2016, 02:46 PM
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Thinking through this a little more, and the inletting option ...

(edit: We cross-posted at the same time.)

I imagine you working with something like this short rail blank:



Keeping it parallel to the barrel would look like this, right? It would have to be exposed from the stock because whatever is attached is wider than the rail itself.





Or, is the stock wide enough to recess the rail, and relieve enough space on either side to allow the accessory to mount? Probably not. That would look something like this if it were possible (X-ray view):



I don't like the idea of your hand bumping into the rail and it being exposed, particularly if the bipod or swivel is not attached.

Another option you might consider is a rail similar to the one on this Tikka T3 Sporter. Adapters for the bipod and sling attachment are readily available.


Last edited by parshooter; 01-04-2016 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:08 PM
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D'OH! I was fixated on "picatinny rail".

There is an OEM sling swivel stud on this one. To attach the sling, I installed a Quick Detach cup, and fit it flush to the stock. Easy-peasy.




Last edited by parshooter; 01-04-2016 at 03:12 PM.
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  #6  
Old 01-04-2016, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parshooter View Post
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Thinking through this a little more, and the inletting option ...

(edit: We cross-posted at the same time.)

I imagine you working with something like this short rail blank:

Thanks, the blank idea is a good one, since the ones in the pic are thick enough to inlet without blocking any slots. I was imagining something like the second rifle pic, but a little lower profiled.
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  #7  
Old 01-04-2016, 04:59 PM
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Another thought, ...

Start with a long blank, like the one pictured above.

Mill the underside of it to match the contour of the barrel.

Remove the rails on the back half of it, leaving a square-shaped block (except for the barrel profile).

Mill the stock for the back half, square portion of the rail. Inset the rail in the stock so that it doesn't actually touch the barrel.

The end result would look kinda' like this:





That's essentially what I did to mount this light. The tip of the stock was filled with Acraglas and contoured after it dried:

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  #8  
Old 01-04-2016, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rawhp View Post
Thanks, the blank idea is a good one, since the ones in the pic are thick enough to inlet without blocking any slots. I was imagining something like the second rifle pic, but a little lower profiled.
Continuing that idea, and using a Blaster stock image from Google...

The way the stock slopes up in that area, you could design it so the rail would be almost flush with the grip area behind it.

And if you relieved a bit to the sides of the rail that would allow you to use the full length of the rail.

Trim out a section of the stock as here:



And have it end up looking like this:

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  #9  
Old 01-04-2016, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by parshooter View Post

And have it end up looking like this:

Thanks. This is close to what I had envisioned, but wasn't necessarily thinking about that long of a rail. Looks good though. On the other hand, if I went with that length, I could probably design flat attachment that would work with a bench rest as well.
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  #10  
Old 01-04-2016, 08:10 PM
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^^^^ this.
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  #11  
Old 01-11-2016, 02:14 AM
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Looks like I'll be able to do something very close to this version:

[/QUOTE]

I ordered a 12" x .64" picatinny blank, which arrived today. After examining it, I've decided to mill a 1/2" wide groove into the stock instead of squaring off the whole thing like in the pic. Otherwise it will essentially look the same. Since I don't have a mill, I'm planning on using my drill press and a 1/2" forstner bit, and make a jig of some kind to keep things true and lock the depth on the dirll press to ensure that the grove is parallel to the barrel. I'll post some pics once I'm done.
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  #12  
Old 01-11-2016, 10:47 PM
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Cool. Looking forward to pics when you're done.

Another option for channeling the stock: build a jig/track for a router, if you have one. I've done this to open up stocks for bull barrels.

I'm at the family farm this week, thinking of your project, and wishing that Hogue-stocked 10/22 had a light on it. Hmm ...
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2016, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parshooter View Post
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Cool. Looking forward to pics when you're done.

Another option for channeling the stock: build a jig/track for a router, if you have one. I've done this to open up stocks for bull barrels.

I'm at the family farm this week, thinking of your project, and wishing that Hogue-stocked 10/22 had a light on it. Hmm ...
I have a router, but don't trust my router skills much. I decided against the forstner bit, and ordered some end mill bits from Amazon today, which should arrive on Wednesday. I'll still be using my drill press, but I hope I'll have a little more control over the results, once I make a jig. Thanks for the great ideas and the visual representations. Really helped me lock in what I want the end result to look like.
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  #14  
Old 01-14-2016, 04:43 AM
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So I'm going to call it a success. My end mill bits came in today, and I didn't waste any time getting to work:

Masked off the area where I would be milling using the tape as guidelines:



Mounted my stock to a piece of 1x4, being careful to line it up perfectly so the stock was parallel to the edge of the board. I used the takedown screw hole and a wood screw to mount one end, and drilled a hole through the fore end tip, where the screw from the rail would go once done. I used that hole to screw the other side of the stock to the 1x4:



I clamped a piece of plywood to my drill press table and another piece of 1x4 to use as a fence. I lined up the end mill with the tape guides, and set the depth so that it would just touch at the fore end tip. I milled out the area, moving the fence on each pass. My drill press speed was set too low, so I had to go slow. I stopped short of the fore end wood screw and would save that area for chiseling later:



Touched up the milled area with a chisel, and the chiseled out the area where the wood screw had been. Also cut the picatinny rail blank to size, shaped the area that would meet the stock. I also drilled holes on the bottom of the rail and the milled area of the stock since I planned on using JB Weld to mount the rail, plus the single wood screw up front. Notice that I drilled a hole in the end of the rail and inserted a pin (finishing nail), and a corresponding hole in the stock. That way, in addition to the JB Weld, the rail would be secured by the wood screw on one end and the bedded pin on the other:



Finished product, very close the mock up rendition that parshooter provided, and exactly parallel to the bore!! Thanks to parshooter for the idea:

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  #15  
Old 01-14-2016, 09:01 PM
parshooter
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That's awesome! It turned out great.

Good job on the pics and write-up too, which will be helpful to the next guy that's contemplating something like this.
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