I arrived at the point that I wished to use the Yo Dave kit to modify my CZ 452-2E American .22LR to convert the trigger to a bench configuration, light and crisp, which will be the only place this rifle will be used.
I did purchase a Wheeler trigger gauge, not required for the job, and a set of replacement action screws and front trigger plate wood screw with 4mm heads, also not required for the job. I reasoned the hex head action screws would help when it came to torqueing the action and stock back together without fear of marring the stock using a blade screw driver.
After ordering the kit, June 5th, I then began to read this entire tread and any related posts for understanding and pointers on what I was about to undertake having never before done any trigger work. The kit arrived Friday June,16th and by the early afternoon the mission was accomplished in a quick and no hassle manner. The instructions presented here and that came with the kit are straight forward and easy to follow. Just spent some skull sessions before hand in this thread and it’s a piece of cake.
The first thing I did was check to see what the level of trigger pull was as received from my dealer. It was a big 57 ounces with what I felt was a small amount of creep.
Here are the particulars of parts installed and the results.
The Green twelve thousands shim.
The next to lightest spring.
The roll pin for the front trigger bracket.
Torque applied in replacing the action screws 25 (inch-lbs). At lease that’s my starting point. We'll see at the range if I feel this needs tweaking. The dealer of the action screws I purchased suggests that most rimfire rifles exhibit best accuracy with the action screws torqued between 20 and 35 inch pounds.
Trigger break is now an average of 7.9oz, based on ten tests, and is crisp. Safety and bump test applied a number of times with no failures but I’ll be watching this. In my case this rifle is for bench rest applications only!
Notes: I did use a 1/16 drift for the front pin removal and a 3/32 drift for the rear pin. The front pin removal was smooth. Do block under the pin areas when driving leaving space for the pins to exit. On flattening the ends of the spring chosen I slipped the spring over a dowel with a snug fit and used a small hand file to remove what was needed. A little slower than a Dremel put less chance of eating too much of the spring.
P.S. Many thanks to OKShooter and all who have or will participate in this thread!
X 10
Linear Mode
