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Old 03-08-2010, 11:50 PM
OKShooter

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YoDave Kit Pictorial



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Hey everyone,
With all of the new CZ owners sprouting up around here with questions, I thought that a thread that showed the installation of YoDave's Kit might be beneficial to some. I picked up my new 452 Lux in 22lr this morning, and I figured it would make a good guinea pig. I used the leftovers of the YoDave Kit that I purchased for my Son's Scout.

There are several good fixes for the CZ trigger, and there are even different ways to install the YoDave Kit. This is just my method, not the definitive one. Use what works for you. Just be sure that you end up with a safe trigger! Use the bump test, and cycle the bolt repeatedly to be sure your trigger is safe. YoDave recommends that modifications be done by a gunsmith, and that the final trigger has at least 14 thousands of an inch of sear engagement.

And now to the pictures.
I obviously used YoDave's Kit. It comes with four springs of different strength, and four shimming tubes of different thicknesses.
You can order the YoDave Kit by going to www.ebay.com and performing a search for "CZ 452". The kit should be easy to find. At this time, Dave is selling them for $15 plus $3 shipping.



In the next photo, I am pulling the trigger back with my thumb (no shimming tubes have been used yet). The gap shows how far back I can pull the trigger on the Lux without disengaging the sear (the firing pin has not been released). There is an obvious gap between the "shoulder" on the trigger and the face of the sear. If I release the trigger, the trigger returns to the forward position and the gap disappears. The larger the gap that you can produce without releasing the sear, the more creep you are likely to feel in your trigger. Not all triggers have creep that needs to be fixed. Some are great out of the box.



Support the trigger bracket with something solid, yet non-abrasive. Drive out the front pin with a 1/16" punch. The smaller punch allows the peened edges of the pin to bend up and in, making it easier to remove. Gentle yet firm is how I describe it. You don't want to wail on it, and break the trigger. Be sure that your support block does not interfere with the pin moving down while you tap it. I do not remove the front pin completely. I allow it to stay attached to the right side of the trigger bracket. If you are going to replace the front pin with the provided roll pin, remove the front pin completely.



The rear pin is larger and can be removed with a 3/32" punch. Mine was stubborn, and needed more firm than gentle. Again, be aware of where you place your support under the trigger bracket. Keep it close to the pin, but don't block it.



I usually turn the receiver upside down to finish removing the rear pin.



The trigger will come completely loose at this point. You can replace the factory spring with a lighter one now. I had already used the two heavier springs in my American and Scout, so I was left with the second lightest spring. It turned out to be too light for a hunting rifle, but more on that later. You can also place one of the shimming tubes under the sear at this point. The front pin will go back through the tube when you replace the trigger. I recommend starting with one of the thinner tubes first. I used the thickest one to exaggerate the effect, but I will exchange it for a thinner one later. (it probably wouldn't have hurt to purchase a new YoDave Kit before I started, but I like to think of myself as thrifty )



You are ready to reassemble the trigger now. Make sure the pins line up with the opposite hole. Hitting harder won't do any good if the pin isn't started in the hole.



The tube placed around the front pin acts as a shim between the front pin and the receiver that does not allow the trigger to move forward as far as it did before. This reduces the engagement with the sear, which reduces creep. IN THIS PHOTO, I BELIEVE THAT THE ENGAGEMENT IS TOO LOW FOR A SAFE TRIGGER. The rifle passed the bump test, but this is a field rifle, and I did not feel that the amount of engagement was safe for hunting. If this was a benchrest only gun, I might have left the trigger this way. However, in the interest of my hunting partner's health, I decided to put the thinnest tube in instead. I believe that we have a responsibility to err on the side of safety when modifying a gun.



Here is the engagement with the blue tube instead. Much safer. I also switched back to the factory spring. I simply removed the nut and washer to reduce the pull weight. Now I have a trigger with very little creep, and a light but safe pull weight. After taking these photos, I purchased another YoDave Kit, used one of the stronger springs and replaced the nut and washer. This allows me to fine tune the trigger pull weight, which I prefer.
Be sure and do your safety checks before you're done. I prefer to do the bump test before I reassemble the rifle. Cycle the bolt, and then use a rubber mallet to hit the rear of the receiver behind the bolt. This allows you to give it several good whacks without fear of damaging your wood stock. If the sear does not release, you should be good to go.



And here is the final product. Mmmm, don't CZs just make you smile.



I hope this helps answer some of the questions that need pictures in order to understand. Feel free to add your own comments or advice. Enjoy those new CZs!
OKShooter

Last edited by Sophia; 07-21-2017 at 10:39 PM. Reason: clarification
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  #2  
Old 03-08-2010, 11:55 PM
wagon
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Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!
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Old 03-08-2010, 11:58 PM
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:11 AM
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excellent post!

I have to mention that before you knock out the front pin you should try the trigger with just a new lighter spring. I found I didn't even need a shim at all. I just changed the spring and its perfect on two guns so far. Some guns have more or less creep from the factory. Mine didn't have much but YMMV.
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:28 AM
sm4217
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I would like to offer some 2 cents, when i did my Yo-Dave upgrade, I used a rubber mallet to test the trigger, the "Slam test" if you will,

cock the rifles bolt, then take the rubber mallet and give a decent blow to the buttstock, if the sear disengages, then it is an unsafe trigger and further adjustment needed.

My 2 cents

yo dave rocks
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:50 AM
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good post OK, and that LUX sure has WOOD!

Harry
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Old 03-09-2010, 01:01 AM
da357mag
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Lightbulb I did an as sear

and then used the springs in the kit to "tune" the trigger pull. I thing it is a good
kit and fills a need for a lot of CZ owners, myself included, I think ill save the
left over kit parts for my next CZ, an american? or lux perhaps? DA
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:06 AM
OKShooter

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sm4217 View Post
I would like to offer some 2 cents, when i did my Yo-Dave upgrade, I used a rubber mallet to test the trigger, the "Slam test" if you will,

cock the rifles bolt, then take the rubber mallet and give a decent blow to the buttstock, if the sear disengages, then it is an unsafe trigger and further adjustment needed.
Great addition on the rubber mallet. I knew I would forget/miss some things.
Thanks for the nice comments. This forum is a great wealth of knowledge. You guys have been very helpful over the years. Thanks
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Old 04-17-2010, 07:55 PM
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Thumbs up

Thanks again for posting this. I did my first YoDave install today on my 455 American. I had a couple of observations/questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OKShooter View Post
I obviously used YoDave's Kit. It comes with four springs of different strength, and four shimming tubes of different thicknesses.
First, on the shim thickness, the directions don't talk about how the red is actually the thickest shim, and the blue the thinnest. For example the instructions say the blue is 1/10000" and the red is 1/16000". It took me a while to noodle it out that this number doesn't refer to the thickness of the actual shim tube, but refers to the approx amount of sear engagement for each shim. The reason I was confused is that where I come from 1/10000 is thicker than 1/16000, and yet the red tube is thicker than the blue... So yeah, Dave might want to clarify that point, but not a big deal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OKShooter View Post
There is an obvious gap between the "shoulder" on the trigger and the face of the sear. The larger the gap, the more creep you are likely to feel in your trigger.
2) Isn't it the opposite of the way it is worded and shown here, or am I crazy? For me, I had the most creep from the factory with no space between the "shoulder" on the trigger and the face of the sear. The shims added gap where none existed previously, and reduced creep. So actually the bigger the gap you can get and still maintain engagement on the sear, the less creep you experience, correct?

Just for data sake, because I don't know if anyone has "yodaved" a 455 yet besides me, I didn't have a lot of creep in the factory trigger. I only could get away with a blue shim before going unsafe/uncockable. Also, the detent in the receiver of the 455 looks to be smaller in diameter or shallower than on the 452, and the yodave springs are wider then the factory spring and so do not fit that detent as well (but apparently good enough!) I haven't measured it yet, but the second heaviest spring feels best to me and passes the tests, and as mentioned, I had to go with the blue tube. When I try some of the other springs and shims from the kit on my 452FS, I'll know more to be able to compare the two.
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Old 04-19-2010, 01:47 PM
OKShooter

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinmanic View Post
2) Isn't it the opposite of the way it is worded and shown here, or am I crazy? For me, I had the most creep from the factory with no space between the "shoulder" on the trigger and the face of the sear. The shims added gap where none existed previously, and reduced creep. So actually the bigger the gap you can get and still maintain engagement on the sear, the less creep you experience, correct?
Hey Tinmanic,
You are exactly correct. I probably was not real clear in my description.
The picture that you are talking about shows a stock trigger without any shimming tube in place. I am pulling the trigger with my thumb, and the gap is produced as I pull the trigger. If I release the trigger, the trigger moves forward and the gap disappears. All of this movement is possible without releasing the sear and firing pin. This is what I consider "creep" in my trigger.

I simply meant that if you are able to produce a large gap without releasing the sear, you will probably feel lots of creep in your trigger. If the sear releases as soon as you move the trigger, you will feel very little creep.

When you use a shimming tube from the YoDave kit, it keeps the trigger from returning to the "fully forward" position. This will leave a "permanent" gap between the shoulder of the trigger and the sear. And, as you stated correctly, this is what usually eliminates the creep.

I hope that is a little clearer.
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Old 05-08-2010, 01:36 PM
Nerostarr
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OKShooter, thanks for taking the time to create this post with pictures. It has really made installation of the Yodave kit much easier. I installed mine today on my American 16, and it went problem free. I used the blue tube and the 2nd lightest spring, excellent trigger with no creep at all.
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  #12  
Old 12-29-2012, 12:36 AM
vjb123
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Thank you so much for sharing. I'm waiting for my 455 American to arrive and if I need the YoDave, I have a great presentation.

VJB
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:02 AM
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Just a note:
With my 452 American, I paid .65 cents for a nbr 143 spring at the hardware store.
It was to light as would not reach 2lb weight. I bought a nbr 144 spring and cut it a little shorter than the OEM spring and perfect with plenty of lb/oz adjustment.

Trigger is still crisp after 7000+ rounds. Just say'n
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:54 PM
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Thanks all for the welcome and helpful advice. The sear has not been touched, just the yo-dave kit added. no shortening of spring. With that said then I can assume the problem is the shim is too thick and I'll put a thinner on in and hopefully that'll sort it. Alternatively I liked the sound of the shims made from the feeler gauges. I'll let y'all know the results
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:42 PM
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Well, I just finished my 452 American trigger job useing YoDave's kit. I started with the red shim & roll pin and the original trigger spring without the washer and nut. This removed all the creep and reduced the pull to an estimated 2.5 pounds that breaks clean. For me this is a perfect hunting trigger. Thanks to all you folks foe your good counsel...

BTW: Anyone need a complete (minus the red shim & roll pin) YODave kit?

Last edited by Gary O; 01-02-2013 at 04:47 PM.
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