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  #1  
Old 01-21-2003, 02:42 PM
SteveG66

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541 Trigger Adjustment



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Guys, I was doing some maint. cleaning on my 541 THB, took the stock off and am now intrigued about the trigger adjustment screws.

Anyone have ideas on what each screw does to adjust. I have one behind the trigger assembly and two in the front.

I would like to reduce the creap and lighten it up if I can.

Thanks to all in advance for your help.

SteveG66
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  #2  
Old 01-21-2003, 03:20 PM
JohnBT
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I copied this off another board some time ago. As usual, I didn't note who wrote it:

Remington Trigger Adjustments


You will need a bit of good quality gun oil (CLP or equivalent), and a set of small screwdrivers, and some white or red nail polish.

Remove the barreled action from the stock.

Looking at the gun and trigger so the safety is up, and the barrel is pointing to your right... the front of the trigger is to your right...

The three screws are as follows...

On your right, (the front of the trigger) the top screw, near the action, is over travel...

The bottom screw is spring tension...

On your left side, (the back of the trigger) is the engagement screw.

First, break the white "Seals of God" and screw the three screws out enough
so that you see several threads.

They may be hard at first, but they are NOT staked in place. The screws and trigger body are carbon steel, and may be rusted, or they may have a sealant on them. Just break them free. Drop a teeny bit of oil on the threads. Run the screws in and out several times until the oil is in the threads, and they turn freely.

OK, now down to business.

Back out the spring tension screw out until there is just enough pressure to keep the trigger forward, but it's very light (4 or 5 oz's) and easy to move.

Back out the engagement screw, (the single screw on the left) and the over-travel screw (the upper screw on your right) out, so there's play to adjust.

Close the bolt on a cocked pin (don't pull the trigger) and VERY SLOWLY turn the engagement screw (on your left) in until the firing pin drops. Back it out about 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn. With the firing pin down, you should now feel the trigger wobble back and forth if you pull it because there is excessive over travel.

Because the back surface of the trigger is NOT undercut, you have to adjust over-travel with the pin "down".

Now, with the firing pin in the "fired" position, screw in the over-travel screw until it "just touches" the trigger lightly, preventing the trigger from moving... back out the over travel screw 1/4 turn. Pulling the trigger now, (with the pin "down") you should feel just the "slightest" free movement.

Now turn in the spring tension screw (lower right) to a pull that you like... I'd strongly suggest a good trigger pull gauge, instead of guessing.

Cock the pin and try it... it should break like glass.

Check by:

Slam the bolt closed a dozen times, check to see if the pin dropped each time. If the pin drops, back out the engagement screw 1/4 turn, and do again.

Cock the pin, set the safety, pull the trigger, release the trigger, and release the safety, a dozen times... if the pin drops, increase the spring tension (shouldn't be necessary, unless you're down around 10-15 oz's, and this trigger is not reliable at that light a pull.

Put white or red nail polish on the screws. Let dry, and put another coat on it again, and again.

There will be no "take up slack", this is a single stage trigger, and can't be adjusted to act like a two stage.

These triggers are easily capable of going to 24-26 oz's, and they keep the setting year after year, and I've never had to re-adjust one.
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Old 01-21-2003, 05:20 PM
SteveG66

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Thumbs up

Will dry firing to check safety damage the chamber? I am guessing probably not, but just want to ask rather than try and find the answer the hard way.

JohnBT, Thanks for the directions. I appreciate it. I will play with it tonight.

SteveG66
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Old 01-22-2003, 10:01 AM
JohnBT
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Dry firing is bad. Use a spent case and turn it after every dryfire so the firing pin hits a new spot on the rim.

Having said that, a couple of dryfires never hurts much - usually.

John
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Old 08-12-2012, 12:20 AM
fatnbad

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Or a plastic #4 drywall anchor,it will even extract them..300 in a box for 5 bucks or so.
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Old 02-01-2014, 09:26 PM
johns6
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This is an old thread, but I just adjusted my 541T from almost 4 lbs. down to slightly over 2, far as it would go. All I did was back out the trigger pressure screw. I am the original owner of this rifle which I bought over ten years ago. Never really liked it because of the trigger so it has been in a safe. Strange thing is there was no glues, coatings,nail polish etc. on any of my screws. All I did was take the action out of the stock and back out the one screw and now I have a rifle that shoots like my Kimber
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  #7  
Old 04-30-2014, 10:58 PM
billysue
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I just purchased a model 541-t today. The trigger checked out at 5#. I took the stock off and thought I was going to adjust it just as I did on my 541-s. But guess what?
It isn't like the s model. It has only two screws in the front. No rear screw. The best I can get on weight is 2 1/2 lbs. O.K. but was hoping for better. Another thing I noticed is that the barrel is free floated. It is the Heavy barrel model. I checked the stock and there has been no after market smithing done on it. It has the Remmy finish front to aft. Did not know that they were free floated. I don't remember the one I sold being free floated.

Living better through lowered expectations.
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  #8  
Old 01-25-2015, 04:00 PM
DaleSalmon

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Would this work on a 540X or 540XR trigger?
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  #9  
Old 03-11-2003, 10:04 PM
George Tatom

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541-HB Trigger!

I followed the suggested trigger adjustmens laid out here and I was unable to get the trigger pull under 2.5 pounds. The overtravel and the sear engagement came out fine however. I was removeing the spring tension screw and screw with installing a lighter spring. I was suprised when the trigger had spring tension on it with the spring removed. I thought about this for a few days and today I removed the trigger from the trigger assembly to find out is a spare spring could have been dropped in at the factory. Lo and behold a spring runs between the trigger and sear that supplies the tension to reset the sear.

I was tempted to reduce this spring tension by slowley removeing a half coil at a time. I decided to post here and see what you good people have to say. Here is where I am! With the trigger tension removed I have a very consistant 2.5 pounds pull. I checked it twenty times at least and there is absolutely no variation. I was hopeing to get the pull right at 2 pounds.

My question is would it benefit me to reduce the return spring tension and install the tension spring to get me back to the required #. I am not sure ,but it looks like the trigger on this rifle has a unnecessary trigger. Thanks for any shared thoughts.
George T.
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  #10  
Old 03-26-2003, 11:38 AM
Lame Rabbit

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Hi George:

You can get a lighter pull, by reducing the spring pressure. However, I would not cut the factory springs. I have found a spring kit, (just a box of springs),at a national home improvement store that has lots and lots of small springs, that can be cut to make lighter replacemants springs, for several types of triggers.

First check the trigger and sear for any burris, and imperfictions, as this can cause the trigger to be way too stiff. I say this because, you should be able to get it down to around a pound, just by adjusting the sear, and such.

If you don't feel that you can "stone" your trigger yourself, I would take it to a gunsmith.

I was able to get my trigger down to 3 ounces, but, I cranked it back up to just over 6 for BR shooting. I can set it quite a bit higher, for hunting.

Jim
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  #11  
Old 03-26-2003, 02:26 PM
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aleaddict
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Question 541 T = 541 X ??

Hey folks --

I found this thread very interesting and informative.

I have a 541 X that I purchased through the CMP. From all the information I could find, these are the exact same rifles. Is this correct?

I haven't fired the 541 X in a couple years, primarily because of the heavy trigger pull. I'd like to try the same adjustments outlined in this thread as well. Any reason why this wouldn't work on my "X"?

This info ought to be posted in the "Tips and Tricks" forum

-- ale
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  #12  
Old 04-04-2004, 09:04 AM
Crosman451

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How about the 541S series rifle, is the trigger the same as this one and could it be adjusted following this outline?

Mike
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  #13  
Old 04-08-2004, 04:19 PM
JohnBT
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Yes. The standard advice is to leave the sear engagement adjustment alone UNLESS you have to adjust it.(Heck, leave the overtravel alone unless it needs changing.)

Set the pull weight(bottom front), maybe set the overtravel(top front), do the safety checks (cock the gun, slam the bolt, bounce the gun hard on the carpet to see if it fires on an EMPTY chamber) and then if you absolutely have to - mess with the sear adj.(rear)

Or, follow the directions that other guy wrote.

JT
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  #14  
Old 05-09-2003, 09:34 AM
sormi
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aleaddict
The 541X trigger is not adjustable like the 541THB.
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  #15  
Old 06-11-2012, 08:05 AM
tom357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sormi View Post
aleaddict
The 541X trigger is not adjustable like the 541THB.
I found that replacing the trigger spring on my 541 X with the firing pin spring from a Remington 1100 lightened it up somewhat.
I don't have a trigger pull scale.
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