That's an interesting find Tim. I will have to check that out.
If you look at the opposing leg of that spring that rests in a hole. That is where another RFC poster drilled a series of holes in a corresponding arc reducing spring tension. He also experienced no ill effects to his mod.
I just checked my factory trigger pull with my Lyman electronic gauge. 2.45 and 2.60lbs. Going to leave it alone ,no need for me to get any lower than that.
OK, I performed this mod on both my T-Bolts this morning. Both had this same condition where the shelf in front was holding up the spring leg off the adjustment screw, one worse than the other. I don't have a trigger pull gage, but it made a world of difference. It's no target trigger mind you, but makes it a very acceptable hunting trigger! Easy peasy to!
It almost looks like the front bend in the spring is about a mm or two, too far forward from the original design. Installs ok, passes assembly test at the factory, but prevents the adjustment screw from doing its job. I can see how this would be missed during manufacturing. I also bent the spring leg in a very little bit tword the trigger.
I have never studied the trigger on the browning T-bolt.
From the looks of things tho, browning went cheap on the entire plastic housing.
I would like to see what's inside. This is one of the only guns I have not done trigger work on. Browning has never been much for triggers. If you want a nice trigger, it can probably happen but you will have to make it happen. Browning isn't going to help you with this. We can thank lawyers and politicians.
Flip side of the coin, there has to be someone who got in there and did what needed to be done. And the reason I say this is because , it's well known in the gun world that Browning triggers , leave much to be desired.
[QUOTE=GoldMedallion;5712369]I have never studied the trigger on the browning T-bolt.
From the looks of things tho, browning went cheap on the entire plastic housing.
I would like to see what's inside.
Go to page 4 of this tread. It's there in all its glory. Better yet, take yours apart, really easy, I have done it several times and I am far from being a gunsmith.
I completed this mod and it reduced trigger pull on both of my tbolts by a full pound. Still no creep or overtravel, just a nice clean break.
Looking at the trigger design I really have to wonder if we need anyone to make an aftermarket trigger. Looks like we could get what we want with just a lower power spring.
I just did my t-bolt trigger today by carving down the tab below the spring as directed. The spring ended up resting on the top of the gold metal screw sleeve when I was done. If I had a dremel handy I could have ground that down flush to the plastic as well and likely reduced it even more. But it went from 4lbs 4oz to 3lb 3oz. I'm pretty happy with it. A custom spring that's lighter would be the next solution.
I don't think going to a much lighter spring will help a whole lot. When working in mine I noticed that the sear has quite a bit of positive engagement. In other words, the pressure actually increases on the mating surfaces before the sear trips. The only way to cure this is to change the angle on the sear engagement surface ever so sightly to bring it to more of a neutral engagement. I haven't done it to mind because I'm not someone who needs a super light trigger.
I just received an e-mail from Timney. I had not seen this post on the Browning T-bolt triggers. I shoot three calibers in silhouette shooting and I have 3 t-bolts. Wouldn't it be nice to have a "good" trigger. I placed 3 votes with Timney.
I got tired of waiting for the Jard trigger, so I took my T-Bolt to my local smith. Over the phone they told me that they had gotten it down to 2.5 pounds. I was thrilled.
But when I arrived to pick it up, I learned that while they were checking the firing pin (it was hitting too deep) they discovered that the bolt retention wasn't working when the trigger was too light. (The spring wasn't able to push up the sear/bolt retainer enough to keep the bolt from coming out on the pull stroke.) So they had to set it back to a 4 pound pull.
Looks like I'll have to wait on Jard after all. C'mon guys!
Keeping in mind that I am no gunsmith I have a question. If an adjusted light weight factory trigger doesn't have enough spring power to push up the bolt retainer. How will an aftermarket trigger be able to solve this problem?
I had a little of the same problems with one of mine in the beginning, but it resolved itself after a little use. I think tight pins was the contributing factor.
Keeping in mind that I am no gunsmith I have a question. If an adjusted light weight factory trigger doesn't have enough spring power to push up the bolt retainer. How will an aftermarket trigger be able to solve this problem?
That the 'smith was able to revert to a 4 pound trigger tells me that he he accomplished the reduction in pull by swapping out springs, not making any changes to the geometry. An aftermarket trigger could go as far as replacing all the parts necessary to safely implement different angles, including the entire trigger housing if necessary. That's not something that can by done by simply modifying parts.
I just purchased a left hand 22 WMR Target/Varmint, found the forum and this thread. I will lend my support for a replacement trigger effort. Is there a person that I should send an email to add my voice?
It does seem to me that the new design should separate the retention of the bolt from the weight of the trigger pull. Having these two coupled looks like a cost trade-off that we should avoid since we're willing to spend $$ on a new one.
It's no target trigger mind you, but makes it a very acceptable hunting trigger! Easy peasy to!
Linear Mode
