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  #1  
Old 10-28-2012, 09:56 AM
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Reliable Extraction & Ejection?



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Try this fix worked out by RFCers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellbender View Post

Posted this on another forum, thought it might help someone on here as well...........

Ejection on my rifle (anschutz 64 mpr) was very poor, 1/3 of the cases exit properly on the right, 1/3 out the left side, and 1/3 just lay on top of the next shell, regardless of how fast or slow you work the bolt. This seems to be a common problem on this model, and is totally inexcusable on a $1000 rifle, my old $39 stevens single shot worked better.

I have been studying the problem for several weeks, and had confined my work to the "shell retainer" (the left side extractor looking thing) as i had thought the problem was this part was holding the case too securely, as several people on rimfire central.com have removed this trying to get these guns to eject better. I ordered a couple of spares and whittled them into several different configurations to no avail.

I started studying different brands of bolt action .22's, i had an old remington and a ruger 77/22, and looked at several others at some gun shops. My brother-in-laws savage mkii was what really turned on the light, as it is a close copy of the annie 64 and it works perfect.

The annie 64 extractor holds the head of the shell very tightly against the bolt face, all the others, without exception, had at least 5-10 thousandths of "slop" between the tip of the extractor and the case rim.....bingo!!

An easy fix....

Disassemble the bolt, carefully pry the half round leaf spring off the extractor or shell retainer with a small screwdriver.

Here are the parts, the shell retainer is on the left side and the extractor is on the right side, don't get them mixed up....



the extractor (on the right side, with the sharp hook) needs a small amount removed from the small flat marked with the arrow. This allows the hook to be farther away from the bolt face when extracting.



do this a little at a time with a small file, reassemble and check ejection after each few thousandths, keep the angle at 90 degrees, don't angle it out. I removed about .012 inch from mine.



the half moon spring is kind of a pita to snap back over the ejector and retainer, it helps to clamp the bolt in a vise facing up, and use a thin wire or jewelers screwdriver to make a ramp and slide the spring down over the part, make sure the hooks are completely snapped over both sides.

Mine works perfect now, i can work the bolt fast or slow, it doesn't matter, piles them up right beside me.

As always, this worked perfect on my gun but ymmv. If something happens and you screw it up, a new one costs about $9 from gunsmithing, inc.

Hopes this helps someone else.

Hb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kseatm View Post

... What i did was a little different in that i filed the tabs on both the right and left extractors. I made the left one (shell holder) closer to the specs of a new extractor i had ordered. It did seem strange that the new set of extractors were slightly different in size than the ones on my rifle. But, the gun had been back for repair twice so i'm sure they used different extractors when they tried to fix it... But who knows. I'm sure just a slight difference in their dimensions can be the reason some people have these problems and some don't.

All i know for sure is the guy at styer told me it was my scope, or it was me, or it was something i had to deal with.

Guess he was wrong

Hope this helps. I know it wasn't hard to do, and after i found the pictures, it gave me something to sort of go by.

Kenny
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  #2  
Old 10-28-2012, 09:56 AM
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Some nice illustrations, courtesy of Allan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellbender View Post

Here's a couple of diagrams which may clarify this a bit further. I think between us, kenny and i have modified about 20 of these rifles.

These rough drawings are not to scale. The measurements are in .000". The two sets of figures on the second drawing represent the maximum and minimum tolerances i have had to file to get various rifles to eject. The third diagram shows the measurements on a new set of parts i keep in my tool box. All un-modified parts will measure very close to this though it's not uncommon for them to vary by a couple of thou.









I'm also including a couple of pictures of modified bolts - just to give some idea of how they look when completed.











This is a classic case of less is more - a couple of thou. Either way can make or break this procedure - ask me how i know.

All filing is done on the inside edges and everything needs to be polished carefully before reassembly (i'm using 800 grit) , including the extractor slots in the bolt body.

All bolts i've done grip a case too tightly imo - when i finish, the extractors will still hold a case firmly but not with a death like grip. Any savage, marlin type rifles (which all seem to eject fine) i've checked do not grip a case super tight.

This is all you need to work on this:



You need to be able to see what you're doing really well. I use the vice grips to gently hold the parts as i file them. I use the vice to hold the vice grips - keeps everything steady and on a level plane.

The masking tape comes in handy to put a couple of wraps either side of the spring clamp - holds everything in place while you concentrate on "rolling" that clamp back on. I hold the bolt body in the soft jawed vice while doing this as you need plenty of extra hands!

the sequence i follow is:
1. Do the extractor tab first - this usually gets cases going right.
2. Take very small amounts off the retainer tab at a time. This seems to influence the angle at which cases eject.
3. If ejection is poor or cases are still staying in the receiver, i check how tightly the case is being gripped. If necessary, i then file the inner edges of the extractor & cartridge retainer until i get the correct tension on the case.

We are talking very small changes here - a few thou. Can have a dramatic effect.

Is this modification durable???? I can't answer that at this stage. I've done 5 of my own - the first has 4,000 rounds through it and still working fine. These parts are cheap by anschutz standards and i would happily re-do them for the convenience of having a functioning rifle.

Sorry for the the long rant. I watched my wife almost reduced to tears a couple of years ago while shooting her new 1416 which i had fitted with a rail from mwerks. Virtually every time she pulled the trigger, she had to dig the spent case out - some were going cross wise in the receiver and i actually had to pry them out with a screwdriver! I stress this was no fault of jeff madison's rail - he is a true craftsman in my book.

I was determined to get to the bottom of this and thanks to several forum members here who pointed me in the right direction, i now have a collection of annies that i am not embarrassed to take to the range.

Last edited by Sophia; 04-24-2017 at 08:05 PM.
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  #3  
Old 10-28-2012, 10:20 AM
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... and here is video of a modified bolt in action:

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellbender View Post

I have been expecting some one to call me out on this - Sounds good but "SHOW US THE PROOF" sort of thing!

I made this terrible little movie on a throwaway camera this morning - My first ever and I was pretty nervous trying to stuff those little empty cases into the chamber with a camera rolling!

http://https://plus.google.com/109728044805374270617?hl=en#109728044805374270617/posts?hl=en

You fellows will recognize this rifle as the new 1710 I bought the other day. Took it to the range and like Camster's, virtually everything dropped back in. I did what Camster did and finished up hand feeding the rounds and letting them drop out of an empty magazine well.

This was one of the two I modded last week. Took it to the range again and everything went out to the right with just a gentle cycle of the bolt. As I said, you've got it right when all go right with an empty magazine well. Works better with a magazine in place.

Took me longer to make this movie than it did to modify the two rifles but at least you can see that it works.

This was filmed with an empty magazine well.

Cheers,
Allan.

Last edited by Sophia; 04-24-2017 at 08:05 PM.
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  #4  
Old 04-12-2013, 11:55 AM
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Thank you!

A big THANK YOU! It never ceases to amaze me the lengths some people will go to help others! Thank you for taking the time to post this lengthy fix to a common issue among fellow shooters.

I do have one question, on my 54S the little band/half ring that holds the extractor/ejectors in broke off right where it curls inward on one of the ends. Anyone know where I can get another one? Please PM me.
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Old 08-03-2013, 05:30 PM
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Thank you for posting this. I recently bought a 64 MPR and had the same problem. When I took it apart I noticed that someone had been filing on these parts already. It didn't look anything like yours. It actually looked very bad and they left burrs on the retainer. I cleaned up the burrs, and reassembled the bolt. I pushed the extractor and retainer forward once the retaining clip was back on the bolt. That made the ejection problem go away without filing on the rear part of the extractor's leg. thank you.
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Old 09-14-2013, 09:43 AM
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My .02 on this. After 'fixing' my 64 MPR & two 54.18 MS-R's there was a common 'condition' I found on the bolts of the three rifles.

All had various bluing wear-through patches on the sides of the extractor/shell retainer. There were also wear marks on the edges of both arms. The worst one was so tight in the bolt slots I could hardly move them out against the spring tension of the retainer.

As the arms look like they are punched out of metal sheet, I think that this causes some burrs, thickness variations & bending.

With the three sets, I used a flat diamond plate to thin the arms (to even out their thickness) & removed the burrs from all the edges. I then polished them with 1200 wet & dry (using a hard backing to avoid poor sanding technique).

I have one of Caswell Plating's Black Oxide coating kits & re-blacked the extractors.

They look like new & work like they were designed to do in the first place.
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trewella View Post
My .02 on this. After 'fixing' my 64 MPR & two 54.18 MS-R's there was a common 'condition' I found on the bolts of the three rifles.

All had various bluing wear-through patches on the sides of the extractor/shell retainer. There were also wear marks on the edges of both arms. The worst one was so tight in the bolt slots I could hardly move them out against the spring tension of the retainer.

As the arms look like they are punched out of metal sheet, I think that this causes some burrs, thickness variations & bending.

With the three sets, I used a flat diamond plate to thin the arms (to even out their thickness) & removed the burrs from all the edges. I then polished them with 1200 wet & dry (using a hard backing to avoid poor sanding technique).
I have one of Caswell Plating's Black Oxide coating kits & re-blacked the extractors.

They look like new & work like they were designed to do in the first place.
Thanks for adding that, mate - That's what the wet & dry & sheet of glass are for in my photo above. I polish every surface including the cut outs in the bolt body - So does Kenny. I'm a bit slack and don't bother about re-blueing mine though
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Old 11-16-2013, 09:42 AM
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Mine was barely catching on the right side hook. When the case hit the ejector the right hand extractor gave way first which had the effect of left side ejection. Once I relieved the inside edge of the right hand extractor until I could feel it make full contact with the rim it works since the left hand "extractor" is angled to give way first enabling right hand ejection.
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  #9  
Old 02-20-2014, 08:32 PM
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Exact same ejection problem with a similar rifle

I have an Anschutz 1700 Sporter. It is a fairly new rifle, and it looks exactly like the Model 54 Sporter. This rifle simply would not eject empties, no matter what was done with the ejector and extractor. I had to lower the ejection port - down even with the wood.

BEFORE
This rifle originally ejected empty cases about 50% of the time, and when it worked, they just dribbled out the side. It didn't matter if the bolt was opened slowly or quickly.

AFTER
This rifle now ejects ALL empty cases 6 feet straight out the side, no matter how you open the bolt.
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Old 03-08-2014, 10:58 PM
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I'm surprised, considering how many hits I've just found when googling the issue, that Anschutz haven't resolved it. Is anyone aware of any correspondence anywhere from Anschutz regarding this?
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Old 03-09-2014, 12:08 AM
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Hi Larks, the old saying "You only get what you pay for"!

I did read a comment from Dieter Anschutz somewhere that he would take note of the issue....
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Old 03-09-2014, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunbird View Post
Hi Larks, the old saying "You only get what you pay for"!

I did read a comment from Dieter Anschutz somewhere that he would take note of the issue....
You got me googling after reading your PM
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:19 AM
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very helpful post ... have this same problem on my MSR and although the solution fixed partly the problem, I do not get a clean 2-3 o'clock extraction (as I get with the rest of the Anschutz in my closet). my benchmark for comparison is an earlier version of a single shot MS.

I think I am ready to get a new extractor but can not find a source that has them .. could you please suggest one ?

thank you

Last edited by esfromNY; 03-09-2014 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 03-09-2014, 07:46 PM
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Anschutz Model 1700 (Weak Ejection)

It took a long time, but I found the solution to this "weak ejection" problem. Anschutz makes several similar models that eject perfectly fine, but their Model 1700 is plagued with this problem.




This article explains how to positively solve the problem.
http://www.larrywillis.com/Anschutz%201700.html

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Old 05-05-2014, 02:22 PM
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I just received an extractor and cartridge retainer from Neal Stepp at International Shooters Service.
You can reach him at (877) 595-2090.
Hope this helps,
Dick
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