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  #31  
Old 02-16-2009, 05:37 PM
rsv1mos
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Looks really nice. So what are you using, the tung oil or that minwax seal and stain.

If it's the tung oil, only apply three or less coats rubbed out for a satin oiled finish, my preferance. If shiney use several coats.

Looks like you don't need much instruction though, that's turning out great as is.
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  #32  
Old 02-16-2009, 05:48 PM
-=GTI=- Zach

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Thanks rsv1mos,
It is tung oil. I do need the advice ha, this gun would still be in the case if not for the confidence and guidance I've received here! I finally took the rest of the gun apart as well, which I've never done before. Look at this! Have you ever seen something so dirty? It has about 1-1.5mm of residue caked to the bolt!


Going to clean it up so as soon as the stock is finished I can make off to the range!
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  #33  
Old 02-16-2009, 06:02 PM
bob KK
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It's looking good. While you are cleaning it don't forget the floating chamber. Bet It's stuck if so it soak in penetrating oil for a few days. Had 2 of those 550's wish that I had one now.
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  #34  
Old 02-16-2009, 06:14 PM
rsv1mos
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Yes, I have seen a lot of those. Makes you wonder why some people do not clean their rifles. I bet the "Floating chamber" is gunked up too. You will need to clean it if you are going to shoot shorts.

Just remove the inner magazine tube and the take-down bushing (screw headed nut at the front of the receiver) and lightly tap the outer mag tube which is connected to the receiver insert back into the action about 3/8th of an inch - ENSURE THE CARTRIDGE STOP/CARRIER IS DOWN OUT OF THE WAY FIRST - Spray a little Remoil or penetrating oil around the chamber and work it out with a small screwdriver. Remove it completely from the action and clean the relief inside the barrel, clean the floating chamber and reverse assembly.

DO NOT unscrew the large "screw" on the bottom of the receiver. Might as well get really dirty and spray out the whole action with gunscrubber or carb/brake cleaner. Blow out with compressed air and lightly lube with RemOil and blow out again.

I'm a nut for a really clean action so after I clean with carb cleaner I give the whole action a hot water soapy bath and rinse, lots of round brushes etc. But then you MUST blow out with compressed air the plungers on both the receiver insert and the trigger assembly and reoil them with RemOil.

Last edited by rsv1mos; 02-16-2009 at 06:17 PM.
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  #35  
Old 02-16-2009, 06:34 PM
bucks11

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Nice work so far....

Only shot a 550 a couple of times when I was small and loved it.

I'm sure it'll be a sweet machine when you finish with it...
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  #36  
Old 02-26-2009, 02:23 AM
-=GTI=- Zach

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Still far from finished guys, I think I've decided on two more coats but here she is as of thirty minutes ago,








Such pretty wood it has become! I think I was a fool for even considering staining such a wonderful bit of wood ha...
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  #37  
Old 02-26-2009, 07:11 AM
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hiddenhider
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Nice job. That is one good looking stock. There's just something about real wood.
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  #38  
Old 03-12-2009, 05:46 PM
-=GTI=- Zach

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Though you guys would like to see the finished product (or so I think...)

The finish is kinda rough so I might get a super fine wet sand or something so hopefully it keeps its shine





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  #39  
Old 03-12-2009, 06:49 PM
rsv1mos
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Looks good. You could rub it out with 0000 steel wool and Howard's Feed-N-Wax as a cutter. Comes out a satin sheen and smooth as glass.
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  #40  
Old 03-12-2009, 10:17 PM
-=GTI=- Zach

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Originally Posted by rsv1mos View Post
Looks good. You could rub it out with 0000 steel wool and Howard's Feed-N-Wax as a cutter. Comes out a satin sheen and smooth as glass.
Thank you for the advice. Any idea where I might come across this Feed-N-Wax?
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  #41  
Old 03-13-2009, 01:23 AM
Zack49
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one way to fill the grain & smooth the finish is to get some synthetic steel wool
( gray or brown scotch-bright pad looking stuff ) from a paint supply. i never use steel wool any more. cut one pad into 2" squares. wet a square with tung oil & rub the stock with the grain using light pressure & short quick strokes. wipe the excess off with a clean rag using light pressure rubbing ACROSS the grain. let dry & repeat. the old time cabinet makers rule of thumb for oil finishes were: a coat every 2-4 hours for a day, a coat per day for a week-a coat per week for a month. it is possible to achieve a smooth finish with oil. it just takes time & patience. when dry you can get a good paste wax & give it a coat. Tree Wax ( brand ) is a good one. wax makes a good seal but has one drawback. oil finishes are easy to touch up if needed. just repair any damage & recoat. after waxing however all wax has to be removed before recoating. this usually involves restripping again. sure looks good though. i'll be refinishing a couple stocks soon. i'll post a blow by blow when i do. this technique is similar to the french lacquer finishes i use on cabinets & guitars. zach-you've got my #. feel free to call.
zack
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  #42  
Old 03-13-2009, 01:41 AM
-=GTI=- Zach

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Originally Posted by Zack49 View Post
one way to fill the grain & smooth the finish is to get some synthetic steel wool
( gray or brown scotch-bright pad looking stuff ) from a paint supply. i never use steel wool any more. cut one pad into 2" squares. wet a square with tung oil & rub the stock with the grain using light pressure & short quick strokes. wipe the excess off with a clean rag using light pressure rubbing ACROSS the grain. let dry & repeat. the old time cabinet makers rule of thumb for oil finishes were: a coat every 2-4 hours for a day, a coat per day for a week-a coat per week for a month. it is possible to achieve a smooth finish with oil. it just takes time & patience. when dry you can get a good paste wax & give it a coat. Tree Wax ( brand ) is a good one. wax makes a good seal but has one drawback. oil finishes are easy to touch up if needed. just repair any damage & recoat. after waxing however all wax has to be removed before recoating. this usually involves restripping again. sure looks good though. i'll be refinishing a couple stocks soon. i'll post a blow by blow when i do. this technique is similar to the french lacquer finishes i use on cabinets & guitars. zach-you've got my #. feel free to call.
zack
As always, thanks for the advice!

I'm on spring break all this upcoming week and have off work all weekend so maybe I'll give you a call.
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  #43  
Old 03-13-2009, 09:07 AM
rsv1mos
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Originally Posted by -=GTI=- Zach View Post
Thank you for the advice. Any idea where I might come across this Feed-N-Wax?
Our local Home Depot carries it. Not too long ago on the Winchester forum there was a thread with over 100 testimonials to the benefits of Howards Feed-N-Wax, it may still be there. It's a liquid combination of carnuba and beeswax in a citris oil base. Works wonders. I have used it for years.

Before Howards:



After Howards with only a little on a 0000 steel wool pad. No other cleaner was used.


Last edited by rsv1mos; 03-13-2009 at 09:14 AM.
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  #44  
Old 03-13-2009, 05:01 PM
-=GTI=- Zach

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Hey Rob (I have to call you Rob or I feel like I'm talking to myself lol sorry),

I just tried out the advice you gave me. Right now it looks really good. Can't wait for it to dry a little so I can check it out. Maybe a cabinet maker or someone who is a professional like you can do that every two hours but eh... I'll leave that for the professionals I think I'll stick with once a day.

I went to several paint stores around here (Sherman-Williams, Home Depot, Lowes, and Walmart just to be safe) and I couldn't find that synthetic wool you're talking about so I ended up just using #0000. I think it worked fine, I just made sure not to work the wood too hard. Ever since my brother warned me that steel wool can leave grooves in the wood I've been paranoid about using it.

I think I lost your number, but I'm planning on going shooting tomorrow. Probably at Busch Wildlife because I don't have anywhere better to go. If you're interested give me a call! PM me if you need my number again.

rsv1mos, is that your gun in the pictures? It does look really good. I'm not sure if it's going to be necessary or not yet. I'm going to give it a few more coats and then I'll know.
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  #45  
Old 03-13-2009, 06:09 PM
rsv1mos
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Yes it is. It's an old Savage model 6 deluxe. I bought it from the rusty gun dealer. He it and a lot of other poorly stored rifles stacked in barrels around his shop where it got banged around a lot.

I steamed the dents out of the stock with my wifes clothes iron and a wet towel. Then I used the Howards Wax and steel wool to rub it out. The wax keeps the steel wool from becoming to aggressive, I always use the two together on stocks.
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