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  #31  
Old 04-08-2008, 08:16 PM
speed647
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What I was referring to are the various techniques used around here for "semi-free-floating" the barrel. I should have been more specific about that.
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  #32  
Old 04-08-2008, 08:57 PM
Swabby

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Okay I did some high-tech things here

I hammered a piece of .22 brass flat and then cut off about 1/8" from the rim end so it would be even all the way across. Then I put it on the stock just behind the takedown screw and carefully set the gun in so it stayed in the right place. Then I tightened down the takedown screw. At the end of the stock the barrel was still sitting in the stock, but there wasn't much of any down pressure onto the stock. When I used the straight edge again on the scope rail so it sat above the front sight, there was no movement when I turned the screw in or out.

Before the brass, I tried a piece of 1/2" copper pipe hammered flat, but it was too much. When I tightened the screw, the barrel sat about 1/4" up at the end of the stock. So for now I cut another piece of brass so they fit across the full width of the stock and then I lightly glued them down. I just shot it a bunch and it was great, but it doesn't have a scope at the moment. I'll get a scope on there and try it
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  #33  
Old 04-08-2008, 09:31 PM
rmbrad
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I worked on an older Ruger model 77 in .280 Remington. This rifle shot clover leafs at 100 yards. I took the gun out of the stock, and noticed a hump in the barrel channel close to the end of the stock. I sanded this down to free float the barrel. The accuracy went to heck. I talked to a gunsmith about this, and he said that Rugers like a little up preasure on the tip of the stock. He said I needed to restore this preasure. His suggestion was to use a glass bedding matterial close to the end of the forend, clamp the action in the stock, turn the stock upside down and place it in a vice. He then told me to hang a 5 pound weight from the end of the barrel. I did this and the accuracy came back.

I suppose that this could get off on a totally different thread. Do you free float the barrel? Do you do the glass bedding 2" from the action, and then add the upward preasure; Do you put the glass at the end of the barrel channel, and use the upward preassure? I don't have the time or patience to do these experiments, but it sure may be worth looking into.
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  #34  
Old 04-08-2008, 09:43 PM
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Yeah...well we'll see how this works out for me
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  #35  
Old 04-08-2008, 11:29 PM
woodse guy
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I have some questions about your bedding process.

1. Do you remove any wood before you start or do you let the bedding compound fill in any voids. And not make any extra room just curious about [B]MKnarr's sticky[B]

2. How many pieces of cardboard did you use to find the area for the bedding pad. Is the upward pressure a must or just for some rifles. I can cover up nine shoots with a quarter (shooter error on the 10th one) do I need the bedding pad. It is a bull barrel if that matters.

3. Do I have to put the bedding pillar before I bed or can I put it in later with out causing problems.
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  #36  
Old 04-09-2008, 12:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodse guy View Post
I have some questions about your bedding process.

1. Do you remove any wood before you start or do you let the bedding compound fill in any voids. And not make any extra room just curious about [b]MKnarr's sticky[b]

2. How many pieces of cardboard did you use to find the area for the bedding pad. Is the upward pressure a must or just for some rifles. I can cover up nine shoots with a quarter (shooter error on the 10th one) do I need the bedding pad. It is a bull barrel if that matters.

3. Do I have to put the bedding pillar before I bed or can I put it in later with out causing problems.
1. Yes I usually remove wood but leave a small section so the action sets the same depth

2. I used tape and have no idea how many layers. It was a thickness but I do not remember what the measurement was.

None of my rifles have pillars. Have nothing against them. Just do not use them. It would NOT matter if you put them in before or after. I may still put one in one rifle to compare. Edit: Several of my rifles now have pillars. The funny part is the most accurate one at 100 yards has no pillar. The most accurate one at 50 yards does have a pillar. I am still not convinced of their need when a proper torque on my rifles is around 20 inch pounds and that is not enough to compress walnut or hard wood if the bedding under the take down is very thick like I do them. 7-30-14
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Last edited by Vincent; 05-01-2017 at 11:26 AM.
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  #37  
Old 04-09-2008, 01:04 AM
norcalrifleman
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I didn't notice many details on the rifle itself. Could you post some pictures or at least specs to show what else has gone into such a sweet shooting rifle?
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  #38  
Old 04-09-2008, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Swabby View Post
Today I was cleaning my 10/22s (the actions, that is) and noticed when I tightened the screw in the stock I could really feel the barrel and stock come together. It is the original stock. The gun currently doesn't have a scope on it, because I found that it was accurate enough for me, but the scope would suddenly become way off so there wasn't much point. So I did a test; I put a straight edge on the scope rail and brought it up to the front sight. I held it there while turning the takedown screw, and it moved...A HELL OF A LOT. This means the takedown screw is bending the barrel and changing the relationship of the scope and barrel. I now see why it would suddenly change so much. An eighth turn really does a lot. So I want to bed this thing, and I want to do it now, like tomorrow! I know, I should buy a bedding kit.

But here's my question. Can I use polyester resin? It is really hard and sticks quite well. I know I can get it to stick to the stock just fine, and it gets HARD, so what would be the problem? It is runny, also. Or could I use some epoxy that gets really hard, but is more like toothpaste in consistency? I think the polyester resin would be better. I can't see what would be wrong with that, but if you guys can think of something, please tell me.

Thanks
Is there a bright mark on the end of the take-down screw? Can you see a mark on the bottom of the barrel where it would touch the screw? Use a torch to peer through the threaded hole behind the barrel wedge. It could be making contact with the bottom of the barrel, if so, grind a little off it to reduce the length. This is worth checking anyway, you could go to all the trouble of bedding the action to find you still get poi changes after a stripdown
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  #39  
Old 04-09-2008, 11:04 AM
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[
Quote:
quote=norcalrifleman;1819504]I didn't notice many details on the rifle itself. Could you post some pictures or at least specs to show what else has gone into such a sweet shooting rifle?
[/QUOTE]

Do you mean my rifles?:






Targets shown are from 100 yards
Ruger Deluxe Sporter Walnut Stocks
Barrels are Gm Heavy Sporters
Skeeter adjustable sear
Skeeter bolt handle/spring
Skeeter mag release.
Skeeter Vee Blocks
VQ Hammer
Talley Light Weight Ring/Mounts
Blue rifle now has a silver Skeeter trigger w/black insert
Stainless rifle has TPA trigger Anodized by "Clint"
Bolts are head spaced, pinned and radiused by me.
Just about every internal part has been polished, modifed or in some other way worked on
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  #40  
Old 04-09-2008, 01:25 PM
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I'll check the takedown screw, thanks
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  #41  
Old 04-09-2008, 09:38 PM
woodse guy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vincent View Post
1. Yes I usually remove wood but leave a small section so the action sets the same depth

2. I used tape and have no idea how many layers. It was a thickness but i do not remember what the measurement was.

None of my rifles have pillars. Have nothing against them. Just do not use them. It would NOT matter if you put them in before or after. I may still put one in one rifle to compare.
If I can remember I think there is a lip of wood that the receiver sets on is that what you remove. Do you make some what of a piller out of the wood so the receiver sets in the same spot. Where all do you remove the wood from sides, back any place else.
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  #42  
Old 04-09-2008, 10:27 PM
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I leave a spot in the front and on each side towards the back usually.
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Last edited by Vincent; 04-02-2011 at 11:51 PM.
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  #43  
Old 04-11-2008, 07:46 PM
woodse guy
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Bedding Pad

When trying to find the spot for the bedding pad is it possible that it will be all the way at the end of the stock or will it be closer to the receiver. Just curious as where to start and possiblely a thickness to start with.
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  #44  
Old 04-11-2008, 07:59 PM
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Man I just can't help it,

When bedding, I always have a nice wine and candles ready.

I prefer to do my "bedding" as close to my "receiver" as possible.

Actually I prefer to only "bed" the receiver, no "barrel" "bedding" for me (but I do use pressure pads).

As to where to start, I like to start on the front of the "receiver", and will only "bed" the "rear" of the "receiver" if it has excessive play.

Sorry, and will understand if this post "goes away", but I just can't help it.

JJ
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  #45  
Old 04-11-2008, 09:17 PM
speed647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJFUNK View Post
......will only "bed" the "rear" of the "receiver" if it has excessive play.
It is always wise to get the permission of the 'receiver' 1st before 'testing' for 'excessive play' and performing the actual 'bedding'.
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