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  #16  
Old 08-23-2007, 10:12 AM
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The rifle is done for now as is the write up. Sorry it took so long. It was more work than I thought it would be to write this. It was easier to bed the rifle.

Remember this is MY way. This is just ONE way. There are many others. MKnarr's sticky should be read by anyone thinking of bedding a 10/22. Other people have other ideas. Some are better than others. This works for me.

Thanks for following along
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  #17  
Old 08-23-2007, 06:51 PM
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Thanks for doing the write up Vincent. This will help me allot. I'm always looking for new ways to do the same thing so to speak.

I have a made TNZ stock that I may be doing in the near future. Course have to decide on a barrel first, LOL.
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  #18  
Old 08-23-2007, 07:48 PM
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Tis my pleasure. If anyone has questions feel free
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  #19  
Old 08-23-2007, 08:49 PM
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Forgive my ignorance on this, but there are 2 rifles in my inventory - well three, but 2 that apply to this question - that I want to bed.

Does this only work on wood stocks, or can you SUCCESSFULLY bed a synthetic stock?
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  #20  
Old 08-23-2007, 09:08 PM
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you can bed a synthetic
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  #21  
Old 08-23-2007, 09:14 PM
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I've heard that the bedding a synthetic stock won't take well, and doesn't last very long. Is that bad info from a poor bedding job then?

I'm grinning in anticipation!!! I have $100 check in my little hands that is supposed to go to hunting supplies - I think a bedding job kit for my hunting rifles qualifies, right?
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  #22  
Old 08-23-2007, 09:26 PM
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Some polymers, plastics, whatever you want to call them, don't take epoxy well. Silicone residue from molding and other factors don't allow the bedding compounds ( most of which seem to be some kind of epoxy) to stick. I've had good success in other hobbies by cleaning the plastics with denatured alcohol or acetone and always roughing up the surfaces with sandpaper before gluing. What little bedding I've done so far has been on wood which is no problem for the epoxy. Someone with experience on some of the synthetic stocks is bound to come along and give some specific tips. Good luck with the project!

Jay

Oh, I think that a couple of bedding kits is a perfect use for the hunting supplies money.
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  #23  
Old 08-23-2007, 10:40 PM
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Guys there are synthetics and there are synthetics. I have a Mod 700 .243 that I bedded in 1978. It is in a Brown Precision FIBERGLASS stock. The original synthetic. They bed very well.

Tupperware stocks on the other hand do not bed easily or well. They are the factory cheapie stocks made of polypropylene, polyethylene or nylon.

Not only do they not bed they are thermally unstable. They have flow lines from molding that become built in stress paths when the stock gets hot or cold. They are advertised as being stable for humidity and this is true. They just neglect to tell you about the temperature instability

By the way...ONE bedding kit should be good for at least 3 and maybe 5 rifles. That is why they are VERY good deals.
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  #24  
Old 08-23-2007, 11:01 PM
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One I am definately going to do. It is a Savage 93 17HMR with heavy barrel and wood stock. May do a pillar bedding on this one too.

The other two I am still afraid to try. And the last post didn't help much. One is a Rmmington 597 I have mods on, and is consistently shooting 1/4" groups at 50 yards and sometimes better. I wanted to bed it to make always better. The other is a Stevens (Savage 110) 7mm Rem Mag - sorry for mentioning it on RFC, please don't rat me out. I have just started to mod it, started with the trigger. It is double pillar bedded, but I was hoping to bed the action too.
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  #25  
Old 08-23-2007, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by docv_73 View Post
One I am definately going to do. It is a Savage 93 17HMR with heavy barrel and wood stock. May do a pillar bedding on this one too.

The other two I am still afraid to try. And the last post didn't help much. One is a Rmmington 597 I have mods on, and is consistently shooting 1/4" groups at 50 yards and sometimes better. I wanted to bed it to make always better. The other is a Stevens (Savage 110) 7mm Rem Mag - sorry for mentioning it on RFC, please don't rat me out. I have just started to mod it, started with the trigger. It is double pillar bedded, but I was hoping to bed the action too.
DON'T TOUCH IT!!! Are you CRAZY?

The dual pillar goes a long way to making it unneeded. I doubt you can hurt it but it might be a struggle to bed.
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  #26  
Old 04-08-2008, 01:30 AM
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Red face Thread revival

Today I was cleaning my 10/22s (the actions, that is) and noticed when I tightened the screw in the stock I could really feel the barrel and stock come together. It is the original stock. The gun currently doesn't have a scope on it, because I found that it was accurate enough for me, but the scope would suddenly become way off so there wasn't much point. So I did a test; I put a straight edge on the scope rail and brought it up to the front sight. I held it there while turning the takedown screw, and it moved...A HELL OF A LOT. This means the takedown screw is bending the barrel and changing the relationship of the scope and barrel. I now see why it would suddenly change so much. An eighth turn really does a lot. So I want to bed this thing, and I want to do it now, like tomorrow! I know, I should buy a bedding kit.

But here's my question. Can I use polyester resin? It is really hard and sticks quite well. I know I can get it to stick to the stock just fine, and it gets HARD, so what would be the problem? It is runny, also. Or could I use some epoxy that gets really hard, but is more like toothpaste in consistency? I think the polyester resin would be better. I can't see what would be wrong with that, but if you guys can think of something, please tell me.

Thanks
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  #27  
Old 04-08-2008, 06:28 AM
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all I can say is..........don't use liquid nails



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  #28  
Old 04-08-2008, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Swabby View Post
Today I was cleaning my 10/22s (the actions, that is) and noticed when I tightened the screw in the stock I could really feel the barrel and stock come together. It is the original stock. The gun currently doesn't have a scope on it, because I found that it was accurate enough for me, but the scope would suddenly become way off so there wasn't much point. So I did a test; I put a straight edge on the scope rail and brought it up to the front sight. I held it there while turning the takedown screw, and it moved...A HELL OF A LOT. This means the takedown screw is bending the barrel and changing the relationship of the scope and barrel. I now see why it would suddenly change so much. An eighth turn really does a lot. So I want to bed this thing, and I want to do it now, like tomorrow! I know, I should buy a bedding kit.
From your description it sounds like the barrel is in direct contact with the stock forend. So in addition to bedding you might consider free-floating the barrel.
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  #29  
Old 04-08-2008, 12:56 PM
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Alright no liquid nails

I'll go see what I can find about free-floating
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  #30  
Old 04-08-2008, 08:02 PM
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I barrel of a 10/22 is SUPPOSED to be pressured by stock contact at the end of the fore arm. You do not want side to side contact but it is a BAD thing to free float a 10/22 that still only has the single factory style take down.

Sometimes you can get away with it if the action is bedded very tightly. If not many times the barrel will just droop and droop as you remove wood.

Rico uses a rubber pad in his rifles where the fatory contact is at the fore end tip.

I use a glass pad a couple inches up from the action as you can see from the pictures in my bedding tutorial.

Unless you plan on adding a second take down screw it is usually a bad idea just to willy nilly float the barrel.
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Last edited by Vincent; 04-02-2011 at 11:24 PM.
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