My receiver is blue! And not in a good way (Locktite) - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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Old 10-01-2019, 08:58 PM
Gribley

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My receiver is blue! And not in a good way (Locktite)



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Hello! Long been a lurker, but this is my first post!

I've got a black/stainless 50th anniversary 10/22 that is bone stock. I've never really bonded with it, so this year I decided to mount an optic and take it squirrel hunting. Loooong story short, I have reversed that decision.

Unfortunately, in mounting the optic I followed a YouTube tutorial that advised using blue Locktite not just on the screws but on the top of the receiver itself, between the receiver and the OEM weaver/dovetail rail. When I took the rail off, I found this:



After much work, heating with a hair dryer, soaking in denatured alcohol, brass brushing, and even sanding, it now looks like this:



So, as you can see, much of the white gunk is gone, but there is now a shiny spot in the receiver and the blue hasn't faded a bit. Is there a good way to get this back to its original condition, or should I start picking colors of Duracoat?

Thanks in advance!

Last edited by Gribley; 10-02-2019 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 10-01-2019, 10:20 PM
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Just buy a rail that has the center cut out so you can use the iron sights.
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Old 10-02-2019, 07:42 AM
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Locktite website says to use Methylene chloride . Have also used fresh Locktite to soften the old works surprisingly well on bolts etc, don't know in your case I couldn't open the images . WJR
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Old 10-02-2019, 08:16 AM
GH41

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjritchie View Post
Locktite website says to use Methylene chloride . Have also used fresh Locktite to soften the old works surprisingly well on bolts etc, don't know in your case I couldn't open the images . WJR
Methylene chloride is a key ingredient in most of the better paint strippers. Say goodby to the silver paint.
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Old 10-02-2019, 10:18 AM
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Can't see your photo's but I have seen plenty of those bad decisions. Don't lurk on Bubba sites including BubbaTube.
As stated there a few rails that are cut down the center and will cover the mess..
Here is one that works.. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=UTG+mnt22towl&ref=nb_sb_noss

OR strip the entire Receiver...

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Old 10-02-2019, 10:23 AM
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Follow Chaserís recommendations.

Nobody does a better job of polishing 10/22 receivers.
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Old 10-02-2019, 10:48 AM
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Thank you all! I have updated my original post with working(?) links to the pics.

I'm planning to put Tech Sights on this gun, so that kinda precludes a rail.

Chaser, that looks great! Did you just strip it and polish? Is it good to go like that or do you have to add some sort of finish to keep it from corroding?
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Old 10-02-2019, 12:05 PM
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Stripping is EZ with these little boogers on a Dremel.. hopefully ya own one or have a Buddy that has one..



Ya need :
Buffs :https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-2-Pi...ry-Kit/1238379
Mandrel : https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-Rotary-Mandrels/1207885

With the Dremel buffs ya get it down to a nice satin finish if ya finish with a one direction pass.. it can be smoothed out more for a softer finish with some 600 grit wet/dry. Now, you can leave it as is and hit it with any good Auto Wax with Carnuba.. or go further with 800 grit and then 1000 grit and polish it with Mothers Mag Polish and better yet you can go to a Chrome look finish IF ya have a buffer wheel and some rouge... but it's tedious.

You can even get creative...



Or just polish..



Or.. re-paint and get all crazy..



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Old 10-02-2019, 12:15 PM
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If you go the polish route, take the time to polish the inside too, will help make that gun run smooth as silk. It also makes it simple to clean. It will never be easier to do than now - and do that before you do the outside....
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Old 10-02-2019, 12:54 PM
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jam is correct in the above post.. BUT, you should NOT remove a bunch of material.. understand that only the rough castings that you can feel and over-spray is what ya work on.. beyond that it can get out of spec..simply smoothing (better term/NOT polishing) the inside of the receiver is done with ScotchBrite - aka on RFC as CrotchBrite - you DO NOT use anything motorized to polish inside = just elbow grease and CrotchBrite... see this thread...

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...ht=CrotchBrite
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Last edited by Chaser; 10-02-2019 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 10-02-2019, 02:15 PM
Gribley

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Roger on the no dremel thing. I think the CrotchBite idea and some sanding may be in order for the time being. Thanks for all the info!
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Old 10-02-2019, 04:31 PM
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Chaser, what do you think about the aesthetics of this idea?? Block the top radius with 80 grit wet fore and aft for a brushed look and leave the sides alone. Less work not much $$$. Sorta like the two toned red one pictured but of course silver.
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Old 10-02-2019, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GH41 View Post
Chaser, what do you think about the aesthetics of this idea?? Block the top radius with 80 grit wet fore and aft for a brushed look and leave the sides alone. Less work not much $$$. Sorta like the two toned red one pictured but of course silver.
Yupp..
It would definitely work well.. it would be slightly 2-toned.. A 3M foam sanding block in 100 gr. would do a great job IF you were very careful at the edges so as not to slop over and onto the sides. The Dremel and Buffs work excellent but get iffie in critical tight spots.. hard to keep a crisp tight straight edge.
I actually do it kinda/sorta to many that I buy used/slightly abused that the top edges and corners are dinged.. pretty common - but the rest of the Rec. surface area is in very good condition... I use a Emory board/nail file to strip and lightly texture the edges.
Then sometimes I use a clear/candy rattle-can paint in red, blue or whatever matches the stock or accessories over the entire top surface.. then a clear satin Lacquer to seal and finish...

This one has those top edges stripped and then clear Lacquer over the entire Rec. :



This one has Candy Blue over the Rec. and then sealed with Clear Satin Lacquer: this is my Bruiser (black and blue)
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Last edited by Chaser; 10-02-2019 at 06:35 PM.
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