Marlin 60 & 795 trigger work...

[lefty222]

A friend gave me a Marlin model 60 from 1971, nice rifle comes real easy feels good.
Did the mod, it was around just under 5 lbs. Honed and polished all the parts as showed in this post , works like a charm two stage and then brakes clean at 3 lbs, don't mind the over travel l can put in an over travel screw in the trigger guard.
But first want to shot it as it is now at the range.

[Frostburg]

I have a newbie question.

I just bought a Marlin Model 60 and have been
using google to find a solution to the tough trigger.
Is there any aftermarket trigger pack/options for
the 60 like the KIDD Trigger packs for the Ruger 10/22?

I have a Ruger 10/22 and bought and installed the KIDD
trigger pack, and it worked wonderfully for my 10/22.

I was hoping for something similar for the Model 60.

Would it just be better, instead, to take the 60 to my gunsmith
to work on it?

[Khanselman]

M-Carbo spring kit with DIP trigger or better yet, search this forum for ArrowDodger's KAT.

[mac1911]

As I dig out my rimfires with a,new urge to shoot rim fire F class and some silhouette. I decided to rework my 60. Refinished the stock with red dye , bedded the action and then found this
Trigger work thread..........out standing.

[magwa]

I'm a big Arrow Dodger fan.

I have an admission to make:
I'm usually one of those "go out and shoot ....and then come home and clean" nuts.

After I got my KAT with the DIP trigger guard back from Arrow Dodger and put the 60 back together,
I went out and shot. I already posted this, but it was like a completely different rifle.

After the 10-22 with a huge bunch of Kidd parts, including a 8oz/8oz trigger group, I didn't think there
could be anything close to match it.

The Model 60 was already great. Then, with AD's KAT, I was astounded at the trigger...and how that had
an effect on the rest of the rifle......and of the overall shooting experience.

Point is, though. I have to admit that time got away from me and I put the rifle in its case without cleaning it.
I went out and shot again the end of last week.

Today, I cleaned the 60. While cleaning, I took a first post-shooting look look at the trigger and the trigger
group. What a thing of beauty.

I have to say another "big thanks" to Arrow Dodger. Hummmm...Maybe not. Inspired, I'm now looking at
$ome new gl***** for the Model 60.

[Farmingville]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UHYp-mYf3Vw

[Squirrelbark]

I put the MCARBO spring kit in my Model 60 yesterday.

By itself the MCARBO kit yeilds only a little improvement. Not enough if you start with a heavy trigger.

While I had my trigger Assembly apart I polished the hammer with 1500 grit paper. Be careful to look at the photos in the stickies to see where you want to polish the hammer and sear.

I used a flat Arkansas sharpening stone to make a new contacting surface on the sear. Follow the photos in the sticky to see the angle you want to make. Then polish the contacting portion of the sear until it is shiny smooth.

This was much easier than I thought it would be, as long as you go slow and use the finest grit paper and stone, it would be hard to overdo it and ruin your sear.

I chose to NOT use a metal file because I probably would have taken off too much.

Put it back together and shot it yesterday. Greatly improved trigger pull. Wanted to hunt with it today, but it rained. Will measure trigger pull and get back to ya'll.

This fix is only for those who don't want Arrowdodger's KAT trigger. If you want the lightest possible safe reliable trigger pull; KAT is the way to go. If you want a smoother easier squirrel hunter's pull--Arkansas stone that sear.

[Squirrelbark]

Frostburg: If you don't want to do a bunch of work yourself, I recommend Arrowdodger's KAT trigger. Will drop your trigger pull to somewhere around 14-16 Ounces.

He does all the work for you.

Or, you can follow my Cletus Bubba Smith School of Gunsmithing method and use Arkansas stone and MCARBO springs to obtain a trigger pull of less than 3 lbs. How much less than 3 lbs, I don't know because Bubba won't let us use anything as a trigger gauge other than what we have around the house. And my wife doesn't have any hand weights less than 3 pounds...but the trigger pulls on my Model 60 now so I know I am below 3 lbs. I won't know if it is "Squirrel-worthy" until I kill a few with it. Squirrels are the true measure of all things in life.

You get a great feeling of satisfaction following Bubba's methods. But you get a 1 lb trigger if you go with Arrowdodger's KAT trigger.

I can't say which is better; 'do-it-yerself' or have it done professionally. I report, you decide.

[igolfat8]

What a great and helpful thread! I am building three Marlin 795's for LTR's and I did the trigger work on them. Two of them got the spring softening mods, floppy disc trigger spring and stoned the sears. Those two came out to 1-1/4 & 1-1/2 lb pull.

I only had two floppy discs so one didn't get the trigger spring and that one came out to 2-1/2 lb pull. I didn't soften the sear spring on this one as much as the others so I attribute the higher pull weight to those two things.

[IronWing]

How do I remove and replace the sear and hammer? I have removed and replaced one on a flintlock but it had a lot less parts. I have done some redneck gunsmithing but not much trigger work.

[IronWing]

Originally Posted by Squirrelbark

Frostburg: If you don't want to do a bunch of work yourself, I recommend Arrowdodger's KAT trigger. Will drop your trigger pull to somewhere around 14-16 Ounces.

He does all the work for you.

Or, you can follow my Cletus Bubba Smith School of Gunsmithing method and use Arkansas stone and MCARBO springs to obtain a trigger pull of less than 3 lbs. How much less than 3 lbs, I don't know because Bubba won't let us use anything as a trigger gauge other than what we have around the house. And my wife doesn't have any hand weights less than 3 pounds...but the trigger pulls on my Model 60 now so I know I am below 3 lbs. I won't know if it is "Squirrel-worthy" until I kill a few with it. Squirrels are the true measure of all things in life.

You get a great feeling of satisfaction following Bubba's methods. But you get a 1 lb trigger if you go with Arrowdodger's KAT trigger.

I can't say which is better; 'do-it-yerself' or have it done professionally. I report, you decide.

How do I contact Arrowdodger?

[trentb]

Originally Posted by IronWing

How do I contact Arrowdodger?

Send him a private message

www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/member.php?u=29870

[IronWing]

Originally Posted by trentb

Send him a private message

www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/member.php?u=29870

Much obliged!

[GuitarmanNick]

Since this is my first post in this forum, I should begin by saying that I try not to spend too much on triggers when I can usually get good results with a little time and effort using the original parts.
To improve the horrible trigger in my 795, I installed a McCarbo spring kit and polished the hammer and sear but would not recommend changing the engagement angles! They are cut that way for a reason!
To take care of the pre-travel, I drilled a hole to the left of center(to insure contact with the disconnector) in the trigger and tapped it for a #6-32 setscrew. The ideal length is about 3/8". After getting it adjusted, I put some blue Loctite on the threads and checked for proper function. You must make sure that the trigger resets after firing. If it does not, back the screw out 1/8 turn and try again.
My trigger pull is now 3.5 pounds and very smooth. There is almost no pre-travel and it has a consistent, clean break. I am quite pleased with this overall result.
The Marlin 795 safety does not block the sear. It only blocks the trigger.
If you have modified your sear and created a severely negative engagement as described in the trigger job in this thread, the only thing between you and an accidental discharge is the sear spring. Dropping the gun with a round in the chamber and the safety on, can still result in an AD!
As with all modifications, doing this yourself will void your warranty, but it is worth it IMO.