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Old 12-10-2010, 11:25 AM
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Avoiding full auto on DIY trigger job..



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I've been reading and have heard about how easy it is to get too zealous with a DIY job and wind up with a full auto weapon on accident..

Is this accurate? If so, what portion of the action would it be wisest to avoid over working?

I'm looking at picking up some Boride stones and have an extra trigger group I want to practice on..
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:10 PM
Komitadjie
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As long as you don't go crazy removing material and you test-fit the parts frequently, you'll be just fine. If the rifle passes a good, solid bump test, you're not going to go full-auto. Also, when you get to live fire testing:

1: Load ONE shell in the magazine, charge, and fire. Check to see that your action is cocked. If it is, the hammer locked back correctly. Repeat until you're comfortable.

2: Load TWO shells, charge and fire. If you have to pull the trigger twice, you're in good shape. Repeat until comfortable.

3: Have fun with your new, reasonable trigger pull.
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:19 PM
dbuckbee
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Just stay away from changing the sear angle and the hammer cut out angle for the sear to nest into and you'll be ok; keep the system positive, and don't try to a neutral, or worse yet, a negative angle. With a negative angle, I'll guarantee you a full auto with no way to stop it till the magazine runs out of bullets. So, I don't even go for a less positive angle or anywhere near neutral.
I've never had a problem with doubling, or going full auto and I grind all of my own hammers.

Don
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:40 PM
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"I've never had a problem with doubling, or going full auto and I grind all of my own hammers."

Ditto...
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Old 12-10-2010, 05:27 PM
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Thanks guys..
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Komitadjie View Post
As long as you don't go crazy removing material and you test-fit the parts frequently, you'll be just fine. If the rifle passes a good, solid bump test, you're not going to go full-auto. Also, when you get to live fire testing:

1: Load ONE shell in the magazine, charge, and fire. Check to see that your action is cocked. If it is, the hammer locked back correctly. Repeat until you're comfortable.

2: Load TWO shells, charge and fire. If you have to pull the trigger twice, you're in good shape. Repeat until comfortable.

3: Have fun with your new, reasonable trigger pull.
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:24 PM
grantj

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbuckbee View Post
Just stay away from changing the sear angle and the hammer cut out angle for the sear to nest into and you'll be ok; keep the system positive, and don't try to a neutral, or worse yet, a negative angle. With a negative angle, I'll guarantee you a full auto with no way to stop it till the magazine runs out of bullets. So, I don't even go for a less positive angle or anywhere near neutral.
I've never had a problem with doubling, or going full auto and I grind all of my own hammers.

Don
except grinding the catch angle on the hammer is key to a good trigger job.
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...ghlight=stones
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:30 PM
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the likelyhood of you get a FA is slim to none. 99.99999999999999999% of the time the hammer will simply follow the bolt down and do nothing. everything has to be just wrong for you to get FA.
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:39 PM
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I think the worst I ever got was a double tap.

Other that that, hammer follows the bolt home.
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Old 01-25-2011, 03:58 AM
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Doubling

Am having problems with FTF. Now something new. Doubling. Just recently installed a Timney trigger assy. Have not messed with any of the internals of said trigger. Anyone else have this problem? I have a new reworked bolt on the way. If that doesn't work , will go for a Kidd trigger . I know I should have gone for the Kidd in the first place, but being retired has it's financial limitations. Anyone interested in a used Timney trigger?
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Old 01-25-2011, 04:57 AM
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before doing a trigger job to yours or anyone else' guns
one should understand difference between the following when trigger is pulled.

1. positive sear ... hammer cams backwards before dropping
2. neutral sear ... hammer stays still before dropping
3. negative sear ... hammer goes forward before dropping

sometimes positive action is so slight, helps to wear jewelers optics with good light to see.

if sear angle is positive ... any unforeseen shocks like rifle being dropped. will cause sear to cam backward into itself ... locking up tight....

if sear angle is neutral... a hard slam could cause an inadvertent discharge.... or it could survive the fall.... not a good condition.

if sear angle is negative ... a hard slam will cause a discharge... not safe!! .. unacceptable condition

after one understands above and do your own trigger jobs safely ... this frees one from ever buying another aftermarket trigger.

Last edited by _CY_; 01-25-2011 at 05:07 AM.
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rongarrett View Post
Am having problems with FTF. Now something new. Doubling. Just recently installed a Timney trigger assy. Have not messed with any of the internals of said trigger. Anyone else have this problem? I have a new reworked bolt on the way. If that doesn't work , will go for a Kidd trigger . I know I should have gone for the Kidd in the first place, but being retired has it's financial limitations. Anyone interested in a used Timney trigger?
a bolt job wont fix that. send it back to Timmney always been good to go with bolt gun triggers should be no different with 10/22 stuff.
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:27 AM
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FTF's

May have found the problem. Not for sure, raining here now and cannot test. Trigger breaks lots more cleanly now and sounds louder when dry firing.

The Timney trigger is of different design that the original. Ya do away with about half the originals components and slip the Timney into the housing as a unit. Then you tighten two almost impossible to get to allen screws that jam the assembly in the housing. Timney sends you some jam set screws. What makes thigs so hard is there is a spring on each side that runs directly over the holes for the set screws. Timney sez to push these springs out of the way. I did so. Unbeknowest to me one of the little springs fell down on the side of the sear and wedged there. I think is was intefering with trigger operation. These parts I am speaking of are very tiny. Hard to see down in the trigger itself. I had to get a magnifying glass to see what was going on.

Course I could be wrong too. It will stop raining sometime today and I will put it to the test.
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