Biathalon Basic Stock Refinishing: Part II - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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  #1  
Old 12-02-2003, 06:10 PM
steve-in-kville

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Biathalon Basic Stock Refinishing: Part II



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Well guys, we decided to try something different with my Basic stock. I originally was gonna strip it down and start clean over, eliminate the checkering. After tossing around a few ideas we thought we'd try wiping on a glaze, with is sorta a real thick stain, feels like smooth mud. This is about as easy as it sounds and yet its not.



The stock was lightly sanded with a scuff pad, same type of pad we use to "sealer sand" furniture. I think its something like 220 grit. Here we are wiping the glaze on. We picked a medium "nut" color, "burnt umber" or something like that. The glaze is wiped on plenty thick. We allowed it dry just slightly, then wiped it off, much like you would a normal stain.

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Old 12-02-2003, 06:31 PM
steve-in-kville

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The glazed stock was left to dry for a few minutes. We then sprayed it with a "sealer" which has the same chemical make-up as laquor, but with a fast-drying agent and sanding agent in it. This type of finish is best sprayed on so the coat "flows" just right.

The sealer coat is allowed to dry half an hour. We again sanded the sealer coat. Another coat of the glaze was applied, same color. This darkened the stock even further, and almost gave it a reddish hue.

After a few minutes we shot the stock with its final coat of laquer. This is the coat that can make ot break a project like this. The stock was hung by wire and sprayed giving special attention to applying an even coat so no skippers or fish-eyes showed up. But at the same time, not too heavy a coat that we have runs.

Here the stock is left hung to dry 'til morning.

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Old 12-02-2003, 08:52 PM
steve-in-kville

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Re: OK...............OK...............OK

Quote:
Originally posted by Pdwight
And as soon as it is dry you can send it to me and I will pay you for the shipping. Briliant and it looks great...I wish mine had turned out that good.

Dwight P
LOL!! As soon as it is dry I'm putting it back together.... and shooting it. This whole procedure was very education for all involved. We didn't know how this was going to work out because the original finish may have a negative reation to the new finish, and the whole thing could wrinkle up like a raisin. Also, we had fears that the checkering would look bad, but we were able to keep the stain from soaking in and drying.

I should mention that I work in a large wood shop that makes furniture. Our finishing room guys are very knowledgable on this stuff and were a big help. Didn't mean to bore anybody with all kinds of details, I was just hoping to help out those who want to do something about the ugly wood on their Basic.

steve
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2003, 09:07 PM
Dan S

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Some Euro Beechs Can Be Tough...

to get stains to soak into. They can be blotchy. Is the stock actually beech and did you take it all the way down to the wood? Did the finish soak in evenly?

Looks good in the pictures.
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Old 12-02-2003, 09:07 PM
libertyman777
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Looks great Steve. Thanks for the inspiration.
L'man
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Old 12-02-2003, 09:46 PM
Dan S

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BTW. Steve in KYville..

there is a nice HW660 for sale at one of the gun auction sites. Can't post it here because of forum rules, but you should be able to find it.

Good luck with that stock. I'll check on the proper stain to use in case things don't turn out well. Does look good so far.
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Old 12-02-2003, 10:19 PM
steve-in-kville

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Thanks for the kind words. I'll see how she looks come morning. Going the glaze method saved a huge amount of time compared to stripping the stock bare and resanding, etc.

steve
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Old 12-03-2003, 09:32 AM
Dan S

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Truthfully, I didn't know it was

solid wood because of the ugly finish from the factory. The factory finish makes the stock look like a big piece of press board. If Steve's project is successful and easy, many Biathalon owners may try it.
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Old 12-03-2003, 11:10 AM
jmruzzi

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How about Stippling the checkering?

One of my other guns is a CZ-631 airgun. It ships with a pressed-on checkering pattern that is pretty ugly. Even worse, on all of them, one side is much more shallow than the other -- as if the checkering die had worn. I don't remember whether it's the left side or the right side, but it's consistent from gun to gun. No complaints though, the airgun is amazingly accurate for a $70.00 price! Anyway, several of the folks on the airgun board have suggested using stippling over the fake checkering. I even made up a stippling tool from a gutter spike, but I haven't had the "intenstinal fortitude" to actually do it to the stock. You might want to try it on the Basic stock.
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  #10  
Old 12-03-2003, 05:41 PM
steve-in-kville

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Yes, I noticed the bedded action. Gave me a few ideas for future projects.

steve

P.S. brought the stock home tonight. Hope to drop the action/barrel back in. I'll snap a pic or two later... gotta take care of other stuff first.
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  #11  
Old 12-03-2003, 09:58 PM
steve-in-kville

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Finished product!




Other side...



All in all, this worked out great. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Sure beats messing with a chemical stripper. The glaze is available at most paint stores in small containers, we get ours in gallon buckets. I was really happy with the shine and the stock took on a red "glow". It reminded me of the finished that Browning uses or the older Remington's.

Hope this give you all some good ideas. Feel free to comment, I value your feedback.

steve

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Old 12-04-2003, 05:36 AM
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Wow, the finished product looks nice. One of my buddy's who does autobody work for a living painted the stock of a 10/22 he used to have blue. It looked different but was kinda cool. I always thought some day I may try that myself if I owned a wood stocked rifle that I thought needed alittle help.
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Old 12-04-2003, 08:56 PM
steve-in-kville

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Thanks for the kind words, again. I think I'm gonna use the same method on one of my Romanian Trainers this winter.

steve
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