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Old 09-13-2017, 11:27 PM
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Look who's torquing



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I've read in several places about applying a proper amount of torque to the takedown bolts but I never found out how much torque (in ft. lbs.) should be applied to each.

Of course, I could take it to a gunsmith and ask him to torque it (which he would probably do for free).

How many of you simply hand-tighten the suckers?
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Old 09-14-2017, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by DrRJP View Post
I've read in several places about applying a proper amount of torque to the takedown bolts but I never found out how much torque (in ft. lbs.) should be applied to each.

Of course, I could take it to a gunsmith and ask him to torque it (which he would probably do for free).

How many of you simply hand-tighten the suckers?
Torque on any gun is done in inch pounds not ft lbs. Most is not above 30 In. Lbs. If you plan on doing any work on your gun buy an inch pound torque wrench called The Fat Wrench for around $40. You can hand tighten if you like but some aspects of the 10/22 TD like the forarm are torque sensitive and different torques will affect accuracy.
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrRJP View Post
I've read in several places about applying a proper amount of torque to the takedown bolts but I never found out how much torque (in ft. lbs.) should be applied to each.

Of course, I could take it to a gunsmith and ask him to torque it (which he would probably do for free).

How many of you simply hand-tighten the suckers?

On the TD just follow the instructions in the manual for the adjustment ring and then if you have to click it a few more times if it's not a tight fit. I torque my action and forearm screws to right around 20 in/lbs, the same as I do on all my non TD's. Definitely not something you need a gunsmith for. As mentioned above get a Fat Wrench, it's good to have and will let you get repeatable torque every time. Until then just get the action screw hand tight and then apply a little bit of extra pressure, don't crank it as tight as you can. The forearm you can do the same although it doesn't seem to be effected as much by different torque settings.
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:07 AM
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I didn't have a torquewrench the first year I owned a TDT. Then I got one. Now I always use it when assembling the gun. If you care about accuracy, it is as necessary as a triggerjob.
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:42 AM
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I just crank it down.
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Old 07-02-2018, 03:24 AM
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I just hand tight the sucker...
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:50 AM
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I've always just hand tighten mine. I've used a torque wrench enough that I get to feel of where it should be. If you end up buying a torque wrench you can play with this setting" inch-pounds" to see what suits the accuracy. For me it's never been that critical you will develop a feel if you do it enough.
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Old 07-09-2018, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by supersharp View Post
I've always just hand tighten mine. I've used a torque wrench enough that I get to feel of where it should be. If you end up buying a torque wrench you can play with this setting" inch-pounds" to see what suits the accuracy. For me it's never been that critical you will develop a feel if you do it enough.

Thanks for the tip. I usually tighten things by hand also but add one or two extra twists beyond hand tight. What's interesting is that the 10/22 manual also suggests tightening the barrel nut two to three turns beyond hand tight. Too bad they didn't have any recommendations for the take down screws. I think I'll ask my local gunsmith to tighten them to spec with a torque screwdriver to see if it makes any difference.

While we're on the subject of the take down screws, what's your take on DIY "free-floating" the barrel?
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Old 07-09-2018, 05:04 PM
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DrRJP

You wrote:
"What's interesting is that the 10/22 manual also suggests tightening the barrel nut two to three turns beyond hand tight."

So words matter.

The manual states to turn the barrel nut 1-2 clicks beyond hand tight.
That is is not the same as 1-2 turns.

We don't want anyone to be getting out their pipe wrenches.

Smooth
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Old 09-11-2018, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrRJP View Post

Thanks for the tip. I usually tighten things by hand also but add one or two extra twists beyond hand tight. What's interesting is that the 10/22 manual also suggests tightening the barrel nut two to three turns beyond hand tight. Too bad they didn't have any recommendations for the take down screws. I think I'll ask my local gunsmith to tighten them to spec with a torque screwdriver to see if it makes any difference.

While we're on the subject of the take down screws, what's your take on DIY "free-floating" the barrel?
Most compact, easy-to-use tool for the job:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Purchasing the 4Nm tool sets you in right at 35.4 inch/pounds. I bored the bolt holes in my Hogue stock, and resin-set bronze pillar bushings, then used glass-bedding to take the slop out. 1/2" easily out to 50 yards with anything, a bit less with ammo it likes. Barrel is a Pike's stainless.
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