removing wood for bull barrel?

[Ledslnger]

Originally Posted by awesomealvin

Hmmm, I wonder...does the beer speed things up or slow things down?

Both? 🙂

[ammohog]

Yep, tried the dowels with sandpaper and worked OK. Messy. Then I discovered these:

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod6521.aspx

Won't break the bank, and stays sharp. You can get them at Midwayusa cheaper. .... AH

[ffr1910]

I used one of the above scrapers to hog out my stock to fit a Kidd bull barrel. I used one of the Cousineau blem stocks for my effort. Also added a brass fitting bedding post while I was at it. The hogging out did not take me much time-Bill

[Flash_80]

Whoever mentioned the factory birch stock being harder than a laminate - wish I read that a year and a half ago. I did that factory stock with 80 grit orbital sander pads wrapped around a socket. It was a total [email protected] to do. In hindsight, I'd have just bought the kids an Axiom.

[twodollarpistol]

Originally Posted by Flash_80

Whoever mentioned the factory birch stock being harder than a laminate - wish I read that a year and a half ago. I did that factory stock with 80 grit orbital sander pads wrapped around a socket. It was a total [email protected] to do. In hindsight, I'd have just bought the kids an Axiom.

That is surprising, at least to me. I'm considering doing the same thing with one of mine and I figured the birch would have been easier. I appreciate the info. Guess I better consider one of the proper tools for the job before I attempt doing. My doctor and my wife both done said no more beer, so I'll be working with a handicap to start with. Thanks for the info. TDP

[gcrank1]

Not all stock wood is the same, some work way easier than others. Getting a dowel/conduit/socket of the right dia. and some 60-80 sandpaper and giving it a go is pretty cheap to feel it out. If you dont like what you are achieving move on to the next level.

[Flash_80]

I guess you could also take a dowel, drill a smaller hole in the end, drive a longer hex bit in the end of it, and chuck that up in a cordless drill. Then wrap your sandpaper and just sit there and buzz at it. Once it got close, go back to sanding by hand. I didn't think of that at the time.

[rc.]

Bad idea. With any pressure it would walk out of the channel and over the part of your stock that you want to see. Movement in line with the barrel channel is better than rotation. It doesn't take that long to sand things out if you have something the right diameter and are meticulous.

[grg]

I guess I go about things a little differently as I usually glass or Devcon the barrel channel for stability on a wood stock. I use a dremel to hog out the barrel channel up close to the top edge then finish with the dowel and sand paper method. The rough bottom works perfectly for the thickness and grip factor of bedding material. If you don't glass the barrel channel the ways discussed are also what I would do.

[Flash_80]

Originally Posted by rc.

Bad idea. With any pressure it would walk out of the channel and over the part of your stock that you want to see. Movement in line with the barrel channel is better than rotation. It doesn't take that long to sand things out if you have something the right diameter and are meticulous.

Well it took me an hour and a half using a socket and 80 grit. And I changed sockets as the hole widened. And also used a dremel sanding drum a few times to help remove material faster. And I had beer on hand that night as well. It was a pain in the butt.

[Darrell Davis]

Nope! But I did buy a used laminated stock and because with the 16.25" Feddersen barrel the stock was over long, I cut off 3" then added back an 1 1/2" piece of black walnut which then required that I cut/sand that 1 1/2" of solid wood to allow for the .920 barrel. The stock and forend is floated.

Then, because the stock still looked overly bulky and forend heavy I routed in finger grooves at the top on both sides.

Made for a great looking and handling as well as extremely accurate .22

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot