difference, visual....

Ferox34 · #1 09-23-2018, 09:36 PM

….between an OEM trigger group and a Ruger BX trigger group. Can I tell the difference just by looking at them. Yeah, I know I should have marked them when I took the BX from the package and the OEM from the receiver.

Other "known" trigger groups, the stock hammer was black, or at least dark while the BX was silver colored. Is this the secret? or just a fluke on the Ruger production line.

I can't side by side test them, because I only have one "empty" receiver at present.
I don't have a trigger gauge either.

Nick7274 · #2 09-23-2018, 10:13 PM

Just hold your hand over the hammer and pull the trigger. It should be pretty easy to tell the difference between the 2 just by feel. It doesn't have to be in a receiver to test it.

kkd · #3 09-23-2018, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick7274

Just hold your hand over the hammer and pull the trigger.......

Pretty obvious

The stock trigger group is the one with the creepy, gritty 8 lb pull
BX is much much better!

If you can't tell.....
Well, there's something wrong

Toomany22s · #4 09-24-2018, 05:49 AM

I asked the same question , and got pictures for answers. But the hammer on the bx looks different from the stock hammer. The bx has a ridge at the base wher the matal das been machined away on both side the stock hammer has only one side nacined out..

It’s under anything 1022 “ how to identify a Bx Trigger group “

twodollarpistol · #5 09-24-2018, 07:54 AM

At least on mine the BX hammer when in cocked position is positioned lower in the housing. The factory hammer rest higher. Notice how you can cock and test fire the BX unit while it is in the shiping jig, the factory stock hammer when cocked is too high to test in this way. Hope this helps. TDP

twodollarpistol · #6 09-24-2018, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twodollarpistol

At least on mine the BX hammer when in cocked position is positioned lower in the housing. The factory hammer rest higher. Notice how you can cock and test fire the BX unit while it is in the shiping jig, the factory stock hammer when cocked is too high to test in this way. Hope this helps. TDP

OK please disregard this info. After I posted I realized my factory unit had an aftermarket hammer that is higher, so I switched the original hammer back in and found it is the same as BX, soooooo my original post is all wrong. Sorry for the confusion. TDP

Toomany22s · #7 09-24-2018, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twodollarpistol

At least on mine the BX hammer when in cocked position is positioned lower in the housing. The factory hammer rest higher. Notice how you can cock and test fire the BX unit while it is in the shiping jig, the factory stock hammer when cocked is too high to test in this way. Hope this helps. TDP

My stock triggers are in the jigs , and they do test fire. So maybe not such a good test.

twodollarpistol · #8 09-24-2018, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toomany22s

My stock triggers are in the jigs , and they do test fire. So maybe not such a good test.

Please see my second post...Thanks. TDP

jon p · #9 09-24-2018, 08:41 AM

I knew I would have trouble in the future ! of course, my wal mart special trigger group is GRAY in color but I marked it as "NOT BX", in my spare parts box. LOL

Ferox34 · #10 09-24-2018, 08:23 PM

for humoring a semi-senile old phart. I have parts from about 4 10-22s laying about and really need to make better notes.

Here's a tip....probably you experts already know this, but the takedown screw...you know the one they sell on ebay for six bucks.

It is 10/24 thread, 1 inch long, found them at Home Depot, in stainless, for about $1.50 for a 2 pack.

edit.....these are 5/32 allen head cap screws, not cheapo slotted or Philips head screws.

Again, I am probably about 40 years late to this party.

Dang it, out of Geritol again,

Ferox34

Toomany22s · #11 09-24-2018, 11:23 PM

40 years ago , I was at a different party.Starting my career and looking for the right girl to marry.40 years later , 36 married today! ,I found some extra time and reintroduced myself to shooting sports. Bad left knee, so golf is over. I still walk the links , but now I shoot gofers, no not golfers! So relax, and thanks for the takedown screw tip. I asked the same question a year ago.And I might ask it again in another year. Here’s a suggestion , only take one apart at a time that way the parts won’t get mixed up. I spend half my time looking for parts that I know I bought , only to find them already installed on another gun. I buy parts that I already have,

And now I am actually planning the purchase of guns that I already have , but don’t shoot , just cause they are a good deal and I like them. So then I’ll have two of the same that I don’t shoot.

arrowshooter · #12 09-27-2018, 02:05 PM

I had a thread in 2015 about this, but no pics because of photobucket. If I still have the photos somewhere, I'll post some of the major differences.

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...d.php?t=570713

Toomany22s · #13 09-27-2018, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arrowshooter

I had a thread in 2015 about this, but no pics because of photobucket. If I still have the photos somewhere, I'll post some of the major differences.

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...d.php?t=570713

See ,my first post above

kkd · #14 10-03-2018, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ferox34

Here's a tip....probably you experts already know this, but the takedown screw...you know the one they sell on ebay for six bucks.

It is 10/24 thread, 1 inch long, found them at Home Depot, in stainless, for about $1.50 for a 2 pack.

Dang it, out of Geritol again,
Ferox34

How about 12 cents each?
50 stainless take down screws for the price of one on ebay?

https://www.amazon.com/Button-Socket...tralconvert-20

I love the bit about Geritol

That's funny