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Old 03-16-2016, 01:38 PM
The Hen

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Too soft bolt stops?



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Firstly let me say I do not use the bolt stop as a bolt release. The original lasted approx 3000 rounds before it peened on edge and needed replacing. I ordered and received 2 from ShopRuger and both wore very quickly, less than 2 bricks! Lastly I ordered a Mark II stop which seemed to have a slightly different bevel on
its edge. It held the bolt tighter [pulling back the bolt slightly to relieve pressure the bolt stop lever had to be depressed appreciably more before it would release bolt] I hoped since more of the face was holding bolt the edge wouldn't peen but alas 1 brick later it is again useless. I am considering putting in a VQ stop but another poster YukonJack said that item was also peening and it also affected his bolt. Anyone else having this problem or have any ideas?
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Old 03-16-2016, 02:31 PM
Gar L
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I had the exact same problem with a Competition Target model.
After replacing the bolt stop assy three times with genuine Ruger parts I finally bought a Volquartsen.
I have since put over 3,000 rounds through the gun without the bolt failing to lock back.
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:46 PM
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You caught me at a very opportune time, because my pistol is currently like this:



There a 2 areas that seem to come up fairly regularly concerning bolt peening. First is the disconnector, and the other is the bolt stop. This pic tries to show what both of these look like on mine:



My bolt, disconnector, stop, and the various springs are all original parts. They have a little over 20k rounds cycled. The disconnector is pristine - showing absolutely no peening. The stop is showing only the very smallest bit of peening. And the bolt is still pristine where it contacts the stop.

From this, I would have to say that the stop is NOT made too soft. Rather, something else is going on causing some pistol's parts to become severely peened.

I'm afraid that I have only conjecture on the cause to offer. I don't have a solution. Sorry. Maybe SGW or Ruger can help you.

My thoughts about the cause:

Since my parts are the same as yours, and we all buy ammo from the same manufacturers; your gun(s) must be arranged in a slightly different way.

The peening is caused by the bolt transfering kinetic energy to these parts during impact. More energy than they can absorb without deforming. The kinetic energy = 1/2 * bolt mass * the velocity squared. Thus a little more velocity = a LOT more energy.

I think the pistols with disconnector peen damage must have the receiver a bit more forward (relative to the frame) allowing the bolt to build more (backward) velocity before impact. Likewise - I think the pistols with bolt stop damage must have the receiver a bit further back (relative to the frame) allowing the bolt to build more (forward) velocity before impact.

I'm sure someone will be along to disagree, but I wish you luck!
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Old 03-16-2016, 11:06 PM
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Burrs on the inside of the receiver caused my MK III Hunter to do this. See (LSHO stopped working) for picture. It may not be the remedy for you situation but worth a check. Sorry but can't seem to reproduce the picture at this time.
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Old 03-20-2016, 12:07 PM
iflyfish
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I recently bought a Mark III and I want to care for it. But I am genuinely confused (not unusual for me). I have looked at the exploded view and can't figure out what is happening with the bolt stop (when does the bolt strike it?).

Is there a difference between using the bolt stop to manually release the bolt (loading the first round) and the bolt cycling as I fire?
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by iflyfish View Post
I recently bought a Mark III and I want to care for it. But I am genuinely confused (not unusual for me). I have looked at the exploded view and can't figure out what is happening with the bolt stop (when does the bolt strike it?).

Is there a difference between using the bolt stop to manually release the bolt (loading the first round) and the bolt cycling as I fire?
#1 The stop holds the bolt open upon the last round being fired from the magazine. The mag follower button lifts the "bolt hold-back lever" to do its job. You drop the empty mag and re-charge with a fresh, loaded one.

#2 That hold-back lever should NEVER be used to release the bolt! Always slingshot the bolt back manually to load a new round from a magazine. This will accomplish 2 things: reduce wear on the lever AND reduce wear on the lower corner of the bolt.

BONUS: It will make you a happier MkIII owner!
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:02 PM
iflyfish
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Thanks. I see what you mean. Just pull back and release the bolt rather than using the lever. That's what I'll do from here out.




Last edited by iflyfish; 03-20-2016 at 09:13 PM.
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:30 PM
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Racer X
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And even if you never, ever use the bolt stop lever as a bolt release, it WILL eventually wear. That is a good thing. It is softer than the bolt, and WAY cheaper to replace.

You can remove the upper, and dress the worn edge on the bolt stop back square again. It will likely work again for a reasonable amount of time. I wear mine down or out every few years. But I shoot a LOT.

Last edited by Racer X; 03-20-2016 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 03-24-2016, 10:29 AM
SGW Gunsmith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer X View Post
And even if you never, ever use the bolt stop lever as a bolt release, it WILL eventually wear. That is a good thing. It is softer than the bolt, and WAY cheaper to replace.

You can remove the upper, and dress the worn edge on the bolt stop back square again. It will likely work again for a reasonable amount of time. I wear mine down or out every few years. But I shoot a LOT.
Yup! And that's caused by the hard bolt coming forward with enough force to hit the bolt stop assemblies rear face, pretty hard, by design, when it's pushed up by the magazine follower thumb button. When the bolt stop assembly does quit and won't hold the bolt open any longer, you can dress that rear face flat once again, but as it is sorta hard, I'd recommend using a belt sander to do that. You can probably dress it flat a couple of times before it's scrap.
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Old 03-24-2016, 04:15 PM
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Well, there doesn't seem to be anything positive concerning whether bolt stop assemblies can, or can not, ding the bolt face. The fact of the matter is, bolt faces can get dinged and a burr sure as shootin' can indeed be caused by the bolt face running into the bolt stop assembly. I just disassembled a Ruger Mark II an hour or so ago. The Ruger Mark II bolt, is the dreaded "two-piece" version, and as I inspected the bolt, I noticed the bolt face, and one of the worst roll-over burrs that I've ever seen on a bolt face. This burr is actually rolled over and into the ejector track. The very end of the burr is quite sharp also.







The heck of it is, the rear face of the bolt stop assembly is perfect. Now, maybe the owner has replaced the bolt stop assembly recently, or he got one that's made from "Kryptonite".

The bad part of all this is. I always ask people to include their name, phone number and email address so I can contact them if I find an issue that needs to be pointed out to them, and, have a decision made. Nothing. I received his complete grip frame assembly and bolt but no phone number or email. His name is John, so if he happens to be here on RFC and by chance is reading this............give me a call John, or an email.
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Old 03-24-2016, 04:32 PM
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Great photos SGW

Thanks for posting the photos. Various angles give great perspective.
Stew
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