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  #1  
Old 08-30-2015, 12:22 PM
ultramag44
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Rubber Pad Bedding a5-Teen



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Rubber Pad Bedding the 5-Teen Rifle Series

The Remington 5-Teen rimfire rifle series (510, 511,512, 513, 513-T and 521-T), have but one screw to hold the barreled action into the stock. Considering how well the vast majority of these rifles shoot, the single screw does a pretty fair job.

But, wood fiber is, after all, wood fiber, it dries out, warps etc. This series rifles ran from 1939 to 1968. Some of these stocks are 70 + years old. The ability of the barreled action to remain in stable position in the stock with only one screw can be a trying affair.

Of course epoxy-bedding is one answer to achieve 100% contact between wood and metal in the bedding area, and it's a very good one. However, there's an easier, quicker and not-so-permanent method at our disposal. It's easily achieved at home in about 20 minutes.

Rubber pad bedding was used in the Winchester 52C. The pads conformed to the exact shape of the receiver and stock. They also absorbed vibration. We can adapt this method for our 5-Teen rifles.

A rubber insulator band goes around the metal wheel of a bicycle. The insulator band protects the tube from rubbing against the metal. Bicycle shops throw old ones in the trash ever day. They will give you the old bands for the asking. What we are going to do is cut 2 pads from one of those insulator bands. They will sit in the bottom recess of the stock and be our gasket between metal and wood.

Once the pads are fabricated, insert the screw up through the hole in the stock. Lay the pads in place. You may have to push the front pad over the screw. The rear pad may need a couple of tiny bits of scotch tape to hold it in place. Mine didn't, but just make sure when you lower the barreled action in place, it goes in slowly and straight. Having the stock in a gun vice is a big plus here. Tighten the screw from underneath with a short, flat-tip screwdriver. Don't force the screw in too tight. Just snug and try 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Shooting your rifle will tell you when it's the right torque.

Tools:

Sharp pair of scissors
An empty, fired .22LR case
Hammer
Block of scrap wood
ruler
pen

Supplies:

Rubber insulator band from a bicycle wheel

The used insulator bands are usually dusty. Clean it with soap & water or spray window cleaner. dry it well.


insulator band from a bicycle wheel


The shiny area is the only place the metal and wood actually touch in front of stock mortise.


Again, shiny areas disclose very little contact between wood and metal in back of stock mortise.


Measure mortise.


Cut a strip of band to fit full length in mortise.


Measure where to punch hole. Punch hole with a USED .22 case


measure and draw lines for magazine cutout.


Trimmed for cutout


Front pad installed.


rear pad cut and trimmed for stock mortise.


Both pads installed


Before pads, 50 yards off bench. Eley Orange


Before pads, 50 yards off bench. Eley Orange


After pads, 5-shots, 50 yards off bench Eley Orange


After pads, 5-shots, 50 yards off bench Eley Orange

Last edited by ultramag44; 08-30-2015 at 04:44 PM.
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  #2  
Old 08-30-2015, 04:00 PM
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Thanks UM! This looks easy and I'm going to give it a try in all 6 of my 5-Series rifles - 2 510s, 2 511s, 1 512 and 1 513T. What do you think about using this to bed the barrel channel?
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  #3  
Old 08-30-2015, 04:23 PM
ultramag44
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aqbill,

You're most welcome.

I would just do the action area first, then shoot it for results against how it shot prior to action pads. If you wish to continue, put a pad crossways (from one side of the stock to the other) under the barrel where it meets the receiver.

Best Regards, Mark

Quote:
Originally Posted by aqbill View Post
Thanks UM! This looks easy and I'm going to give it a try in all 6 of my 5-Series rifles - 2 510s, 2 511s, 1 512 and 1 513T. What do you think about using this to bed the barrel channel?

Last edited by ultramag44; 08-30-2015 at 04:48 PM.
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  #4  
Old 08-31-2015, 11:30 PM
DaleSalmon

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I got just the rifle to try this on and bunch of bike inner tube.
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:30 AM
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Mike

I had a career in rubber technology and I like this approach. Inner tubes are commonly made of butyl rubber. maybe the liners are as well. Butyl rubber has very low resilience. A butyl rubber ball would barely bounce if dropped from head high. This makes butyl good at absorbing vibrations - what goes in, does not come out. Seems like that would be a good thing for a firearm.

Something to bear in mind though: When rubber is held in a compressed state a couple of things happen. These are "permanent compression set" and "creep".

Measure the thickness of a piece of rubber, compress it to 75% of its original height, and leave it like that for an extended period. Take it out of compression and measure the thickness again. It will be thinner than the original value. This loss in height is permanent "compression set".

"Creep" is a temporary condition. If a piece of rubber is held in compression the molecules will move in order to relieve the strain. In other words it squishes out into gaps to get away from the load. This effect is temporary and other than the permanent compression set loss it will return to its original size and shape when the load is removed.

What this means for bedding with rubber is that compression set and creep over time will result in the rubber bedding getting thinner. The guard screw torque will be reduced and the amount of "pushback" the rubber is exerting against the receiver and stock mortise will be less.

Does not mean it will not work, just means the guard screw torque will need to be checked once in a while.

How fast and to what degree it happens depends on the type of rubber and how much compression it is under.
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:33 AM
DaleSalmon

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Boom! Done.....easy peezy.

Take a sharpie marker and dab a little color on your action screw thread it up against the rubber and it will leave a perfect imprint where to cut the hole with the .22lr shell casing.


Last edited by DaleSalmon; 09-01-2015 at 06:45 AM.
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  #7  
Old 09-01-2015, 10:06 AM
ultramag44
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Dale,

Yeppers, a quick & easy way to bed a 5-Teen. This 65 y/o technology still works in 2015.

NMP EXP,

Thanks for the technical assist on the properties of butyl rubber. We have such a wealth of knowledge and expertise here on RFC.

If a guys rifle doesn't shoot any better w/ the pads, he can just remove them, no harm no foul. His rifle is still 100% original.

Last edited by ultramag44; 09-01-2015 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 09-01-2015, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultramag44 View Post
Dale,

NMP EXP,

Thanks for the technical assist on the properties of butyl rubber. We have such a wealth of knowledge and expertise here on RFC.

If a guys rifle doesn't shoot any better w/ the pads, he can just remove them, no harm no foul. His rifle is still 100% original.
Given my background, I like your method.

Just snug the screw once n a while.
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  #9  
Old 09-01-2015, 11:19 AM
PlinksAlot
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Thanks for the tip. I have a couple to try it on.
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  #10  
Old 09-02-2015, 02:43 PM
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I have a few I can try this on. Thank you Sir
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  #11  
Old 09-02-2015, 08:41 PM
tomon
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I picked up a band from the local bike shop for$1, and it measures 5/8" x .028" . Does that sound thick enough to do the job? If not, I can double it easy easy enough! Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:46 PM
ultramag44
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Hi tomon,

I think one thickness should do nicely. Please let us know of your results.

Best Regards, Mark

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomon View Post
I picked up a band from the local bike shop for$1, and it measures 5/8" x .028" . Does that sound thick enough to do the job? If not, I can double it easy easy enough! Thanks in advance!
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  #13  
Old 09-03-2015, 07:47 AM
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Would be nice to have this added to the 5-teen bolt thread or maybe a sticky about the teens with this added
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  #14  
Old 09-03-2015, 08:34 AM
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next project......
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  #15  
Old 09-03-2015, 09:36 AM
tomon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultramag44 View Post
Hi tomon,

I think one thickness should do nicely. Please let us know of your results.

Best Regards, Mark
Mark.... I took the rifle apart yesterday, and was thinking since it was apart anyhow, that I would install a second action screw. The question is..... try just bedding it, or do both at once????? Decisions Decisions Decisions! I, of course, have other gun and reloading projects waiting!
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