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  #1  
Old 12-08-2019, 10:42 PM
nodak
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Buckmark safety oddity, need help



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I have an old silhouette model I bought 2 years ago and after I got it home I discovered it trips the sear on the trigger pull when on safe. Does anyone have any ideas on what to check 1st. Could the Haggis flip cause this? Worn safety lever? The trigger is super sweet but safety needs to work above all.
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  #2  
Old 12-08-2019, 11:20 PM
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'ol shooter
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Sure sounds like the sear is not being fully seated into the hammer notch fully, causing a "tip toe" condition where the sear will jump off.
Disassemble the pistol and inspect the sear and hammer for debris that might block the hammer or sear.
If nothing is found, manually cock the hammer and watch the sear, does it move smoothly and positively into the hammer notch or not?
Might just be the flip, they don't work all the time, because every spring is different.
TandemKross is selling a spring as a drop in unit that will improve the trigger weight safely, might want to investigate it.
I am lucky in that the flip works fine in my 1985 BM.
I only use One Shot spray cleaner and dry lube spray to clean and lube all my semi-auto's, and also use TW-25 grease on the slide rails.
It stays much cleaner with no oily residue buildup.
Let us know what you find.
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  #3  
Old 12-09-2019, 12:37 AM
Nolan

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Quote:
Originally Posted by nodak View Post
I have an old silhouette model I bought 2 years ago and after I got it home I discovered it trips the sear on the trigger pull when on safe. Does anyone have any ideas on what to check 1st. Could the Haggis flip cause this? Worn safety lever? The trigger is super sweet but safety needs to work above all.
It's possible the previous owner/s did some trigger work on the hammer and sear for a lighter trigger pull and changed the relationship between the safety and the sear. If the gun has the trigger pull weight adjustment screw in the rear of the frame, it would not have the Heggis flip unless the spring was changed.

It's not terribly difficult to fit a new safety, but it is definitely NOT work for a beginner.

Nolan

Last edited by Nolan; 12-09-2019 at 12:39 AM.
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Old 12-09-2019, 12:49 PM
nodak
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Thanks for the ideas on where to start Bob & Nolan. Ill take it apart for a good thorough cleaning. And look at the sear engagement then I'll look for that adjuster screw Nolan mentioned. Where is it located? I'll measure but the trigger is super light.

Last edited by nodak; 12-09-2019 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 12-09-2019, 12:59 PM
rdas
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The relationship between the safety and the sear is described

In this thread from Chim

and in this thread from thinknow

and was recently discussed in this thread from Gwelo

... but just to be clear, this is NOT a spring-flip problem. If the safety could not be moved up into the SAFE position, maybe (because the sear spring pushes the bottom of the sear forward, and safety fits up behind it, so if the spring is not doing it's job, then the sear might not be forward, and thus the safety lever would not be able to be pushed up into the SAFE position). But once the safety is up (as described in this thread), the sear should not move, and the strength or orientation of the sear spring has nothing to do with that.

If someone filed the front-bottom of the sear in an attempt to straighten the edge, or filed the back of the hammer, they might have filed too much (what Nolan is referring to, I think). Or they might have filed the back of the left-side "foot" of the sear, but that's generally only done to fit the sear to the safety (it would not improve the trigger pull). Possibly the result of installing a new hammer, sear, or safety lever.

You could try bending the tip of the safety forward, but keep in mind that the tolerances here are very tight... the safety has to slip smoothly up (all the way) behind the sear, but just barely, so that it holds the sear firmly in place. The difference between correct and dangerous is only a couple hundredths of an inch. With the safety up, pull the trigger firmly, then take the safety off, and bump/jostle the gun... the hammer cannot fall at any point in that process. As Nolan said, not something for a beginner.

Dave
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Old 12-09-2019, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nodak View Post
Thanks for the ideas on where to start Bob & Nolan. Ill take it apart for a good thorough cleaning. And look at the sear engagement then I'll look for that adjuster screw Nolan mentioned. Where is it located? I'll measure but the trigger is super light.
The adjustment screw is at the rear of the frame, directly under the rear frame post and will be covered by the slide when the slide is in battery.

Nolan
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Old 12-10-2019, 11:48 AM
rdas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nolan View Post
The adjustment screw is at the rear of the frame, directly under the rear frame post and will be covered by the slide when the slide is in battery.

Nolan
Here's a link to some photos of it, plus practical tidbits, like what size hex wrench (3/32"), and which way to turn it (clockwise=in=heavier, or counter-clockwise=out=lighter), etc.

Although those photos show it with the slide removed for clarity, the screw is angled such that you can adjust it without taking anything apart. Just lock the slide back, and you can see it, get to it, and adjust it.

Dave
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Old 12-10-2019, 12:43 PM
nodak
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Pictures worth a thousand words. Many thanks.
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Old 12-10-2019, 03:15 PM
nodak
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No time today to disassemble for inspect but did confirm that I have the adjustable sear spring screw under back of slide. I added and removed weight but no change. I'm betting money that it needs a new safety. I'll call browning to see what they can offer. I'd hate to send it in and have it return with a not silhouette trigger parts. I'll also check with a local Smith about fitting a safety. I'll get the info then do my disassemble/clean then decide the next step.
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Old 12-10-2019, 03:48 PM
nodak
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Hypothetically if I sent my pistol to Browning they could replace parts that may make the trigger heavy like a new gun and my thought is that maybe send it to a Buckmark Professional gunsmith instead.

Who would that company be???????.
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  #11  
Old 12-10-2019, 07:20 PM
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Other than deburring and making sure it's smooth, there isn't really anything to do to the safety lever as far as fitting it to the sear. The smooth part can be a big deal, as the stamping burr faces the interior of the frame, and I've seen them carving up the aluminum pretty severely, which also made the feel very stiff.

The fitting of sear and safety is actually done on the sear side. I've seen them done very poorly from the factory. AFAIK, there is nothing special about the Silhouette sear itself; only the spring is the unobtanium unicorn part I'd like to be able to buy several more of. That, and the adjuster screw in the frame that's machined for it. And the overtravel stop in the trigger, which is easily done to any standard trigger.

Sears are sold fairly inexpensively by places like Midway, Brownells, and MGW. Browning's price is usually cheapest, but they charge $8 shipping, which usually makes it worse than the big markups from aftermarket sellers if that's all you're buying. Fitting it isn't rocket science, but it's probably best for most people to have a qualified gunsmith do it.
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Old 12-14-2019, 02:41 PM
nodak
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Good info. I opening it up last night and there are no aftermarket parts and I can see the sear movement with safety engaged. I may take it apart again and this time take out the sear and safety just to see if there is excess wear on either before I pay to have work done.
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Old 12-26-2019, 11:51 PM
nodak
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Local Scheels store is a premium Browning dealer and is handling the return for repair. Very easy and I dont need to schedule anything with Fedex. So far zero cost on me.
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  #14  
Old 12-31-2019, 11:11 AM
rdas
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Keep us posted (good or bad). Always worth hearing about customer service experiences.

Thanks,
Dave
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Old 01-01-2020, 01:29 AM
nodak
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So far they sent it in last Friday.
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