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Old 11-27-2019, 03:02 AM
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What's the scoop on Briwax? Which one do I choose?



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So I've been researching and it seems Renaissance Wax is the way to go with stock preservation...which is good since i have some for knives already. However, I do have a few guns with scratches in the stock so i wanted something to add color to get in the crevice so it blends in better and hides the scratch.

So my question with the Briwax is which one to choose? Original formula or Toluene free? Should i just do my best to color match the Briwax to the color of my stock or just use the clear? Common sense tells me to use clear on perfect wood and maybe the colored for wood with imperfections but i could be way off base too. https://briwax.com/

For what's it's worth, I've been using silicone gun wipes from Midway USA and Rem Cloths and I've been happy with the results thus far. Thanks in advance for any help, I'll keep researching in the meantime.

Last edited by theriddler1977; 11-27-2019 at 03:13 AM.
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Old 11-27-2019, 03:46 AM
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I can tell you what the man at Canyon Creek custom stocks told me on the phone. He said to NEVER use any wax. The reaosn to NOT use any wax is that if you ever need to refinish one day, you have to9 remove so much more wood to get all that wax out that soaks through the finish and into the wood.
If you need more, or want better protection, apply more coasts of finish to seal that wood. Stay away from all of the waxes. I take the word of a custom stock maker over anyone else. He has had the experience of having to refinish stocks that have had waxes applied.

When I used to refinish stocks when I work fro a gunsmith, we put between 10-14 coats of Tru Oil on every stock. Each stock is different. Those with tight cuirly grain will not hold as much finish, where those with straight, more open grain, they take a lot more coats to fill them up water tight. No moisture getting in there that way.
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Old 11-27-2019, 08:18 AM
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Wax is a sight easier to remove than Silicones and many other products folks like to use, Bri Wax and Renasissance Wax both, but suit yourself its your firearm. And being the best stock maker around doesn't in and of itself make one an expert on finishes despite what some may think. Just my opinion, you're very welcome to your own. I've never used the tinted Bri Wax, the wife has an English Pine dining room table and the Clear is all that used on it.
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Old 11-27-2019, 08:58 AM
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I wouldn't think the gunstock finish would allow wax to penetrate it but I could be wrong... Probably depends on the type of finish. I do love the look of a Tru-Oil finished stock, I don't trust my skills in applying it though and thought a wax may be a good alternative. Think I'll play it safe on my CZs and use renaissance wax. I can experiment with the briwax on my lesser quality guns.

Thanks for the feedback guys!
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Old 11-27-2019, 10:03 AM
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I use three waxes on my wood stocks and blued steel, depending on what's available. In descending order of preference: Renaissance Wax, Bri-Wax, and Johnson's yellow paste wax. These are going over factory finishes, on CZ's and the like. The late (and very much missed) NOREMF recommended these and that was good enough for me. That said, I have no idea whether wax can penetrate a synthetic finish. Seems unlikely, as that CZ finish is pretty hardy stuff, but what do I know?

NOREMF's standard advice was that "just wax" waxes (like Bri-Wax and those above) wouldn't harm the wood, offered some good protection against the elements, and "sloughed off" over time - hence the need to reapply and re-buff from time to time. He also advocated avoiding anything with silicone in it, as this would (according to him) penetrate factory finishes.

So I'd say use the Bri-Wax without fear. I do. But that's just one man's opinion.
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Old 11-27-2019, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theriddler1977 View Post
I wouldn't think the gunstock finish would allow wax to penetrate it
Its when a finish has been compromised, by nicks, scratches, bare spots or whatnot that allow after products to penetrate. Silicone is a bad one for migrating in and beneath a finish, so its said.
Were our George, NOREMF, still alive, his answer with proof would be much much longer.
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Old 11-27-2019, 12:17 PM
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I use clear Bri-Wax when I want a glossy sheen, Renaissance when I want a satiny sheen, and Johnson's Floor Wax for no stick bedding prep.

George was the man, and his knowledge has benefited me and many others. Miss him often.
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Old 11-27-2019, 03:11 PM
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George was the man, and his knowledge has benefited me and many others. Miss him often.
Yes.....Amen


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Old 11-27-2019, 03:14 PM
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I believe George also said 100% Mineral Spirits would not harm the wood but would remove any waxes...the real stuff, not low-odor.
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Old 11-27-2019, 04:24 PM
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I believe George also said 100% Mineral Spirits would not harm the wood but would remove any waxes...the real stuff, not low-odor.
Correct
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Old 11-27-2019, 05:44 PM
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He also recommended cleaning the stock after the Mineral Spirits with a warm wetted towel with a few drops of Dawn, removes any silicone.
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Old 11-27-2019, 07:43 PM
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George was the man, and his knowledge has benefited me and many others. Miss him often.
Hear hear! God Speed Mr George!
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Old 12-10-2019, 09:15 AM
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The senior curator of NRA firearm museums basically lays out the same method as George did for maintaining stocks (PDF warning): http://www.nramuseum.org/media/10073...20wicklund.pdf

I've been using Johnson's paste wax and Renaissance wax on guns for awhile now, indeed ole mineral spirits will wash it off well.
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Last edited by ek-marlin-424; 12-10-2019 at 09:18 AM.
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