Bolt buffer in my TD

[vaguru]

I bought a used 1970 vintage 10 22 for my son about 30 years ago. Have no idea how many rounds through it, but I can tell you that the hole the steel "stop" pin goes in is elongated. It even has some peening on the rear of the hole.

After joining here and learning about buffers, it now has one. It will limit the future wear on that hole.

[MannlicherFan]

Originally Posted by Jammer22

Well.. for 55 years, the 10/22 has worked just fine with a steel bolt stop pin.

My 1966 10/22 has countless rounds through it with no battering or elongating. The bolt never hits the pin so a buffer is unnecessary.

I like tuffer buffers

2 questions..

1.) was "hot" ammo available back in '64 when the 10/22 first came to market?? Stingers, the Hot Aguila stuff, what-ever Remington calls there's & so on.

2.) What was the "nominal" velocity of 22lr ammo in '64? Today I would call 1200~1260fps nominal because those are the published ratings of most bulk pack 22 ammo.

If, say 1,000~1,100fps was nominal in '64, than maybe the bolt hitting the pin issue wouldn't have been an issue to start with.

Because there wouldn't have been enough recoil energy to drive the bolt all the way back to the point that it would strike the pin.

Just curious...

[MDC]

Home Depot has a two nylon 3.5"x1/4" short thread bolt pack for less than a buck. Each bolt when cut gives you two buffer bolts. You can't beat this deal with a stick. I bought extras and give them to my 10/22 friends.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...-205026146-_-N

[Jammer22]

Originally Posted by vaguru

I bought a used 1970 vintage 10 22 for my son about 30 years ago. Have no idea how many rounds through it, but I can tell you that the hole the steel "stop" pin goes in is elongated. It even has some peening on the rear of the hole.

After joining here and learning about buffers, it now has one. It will limit the future wear on that hole.

This is a "don't shoot the messenger" kind of post. The guy who didn't maintain the 10/22 it is squarely to blame for the elongated hole. If the recoil spring was replaced, the bolt never ever touches the bolt stop. Members here have run glass rod buffers with no ill effect. The bolt stop pin is a saving device.

Originally Posted by MannlicherFan

2 questions..

1.) was "hot" ammo available back in '64 when the 10/22 first came to market?? Stingers, the Hot Aguila stuff, what-ever Remington calls there's & so on.

2.) What was the "nominal" velocity of 22lr ammo in '64? Today I would call 1200~1260fps nominal because those are the published ratings of most bulk pack 22 ammo.

If, say 1,000~1,100fps was nominal in '64, than maybe the bolt hitting the pin issue wouldn't have been an issue to start with.

Because there wouldn't have been enough recoil energy to drive the bolt all the way back to the point that it would strike the pin.

Just curious...

I'd guess that Stinger ammo came out in 1987 (ish) based on the boxes of '40th anniversary" CCI Stinger ammo I used to purchase. However the date is just a guess. The CCI Website however states 1967 as the stinger date. https://www.cci-ammunition.com/general/history.aspx

I believe they recently changed things however Ruger used to have a warning against Hyper Velocity ammo in the 10/22. Again if the rifle is properly set up (aka 'correctly sprung') it should be ok.

(See page 13) Ruger still doesn't like Stingers in CERTAIN rifles. http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/FIR...ruger_1022.pdf

Marlin (in red) doesn't like them and they only wait till page 4: https://www.marlinfirearms.com/sites...v%207_15SM.PDF

[gcrank1]

Just what 'maintenance by owner' is required of a factory 10-22 to prevent the hole elongation and peening?

[Jammer22]

Originally Posted by gcrank1

Just what 'maintenance by owner' is required of a factory 10-22 to prevent the hole elongation and peening?

Recoil springs don't last forever, in ANY firearm. I said this was a don't shoot the messenger post. You can't run one recoil spring for 30 years. (well you shouldn't) A worn spring will hurt function.

[MannlicherFan]

Originally Posted by gcrank1

Just what 'maintenance by owner' is required of a factory 10-22 to prevent the hole elongation and peening?

1. The addition of a polymer recoil buffer since most agree they help & they're only a couple $$

2. After market rebound spring, Wolff calls there's "XP" Wolff Springs For Ruger 10/22 - ESPECIALLY if shooting "hot" ammo on a consistent basis.

The rebound spring is part of the bolt handle assembly. From the factory the handle is "peened" on, see attached example.

To experiment with different springs it's best to change the guide rod to one of these or similar..
Pike Arms Recoil Guide Rod, R-Clipped

Pike Arms Recoil Guide Rod, C-Clipped - have these in a couple of my 10/22's.

Also, there are jillions of 10/22 bolt handle assemblies + individual parts on EBay. Should be able to come up with something that fits your needs.

Good luck, hope that helps

[linux_author]

Originally Posted by Toomany22s

Silly question, but why do we need them? Doesn’t the charging handle limit bolt travel?

from what i've read, the bolt buffer - actually the "Breechblock Decelerator" - is an integral part of why the 10/22 action works so well - apparently it helps cam-lever the bolt, synching/slowing the action to allow time for the magazine to serve up the next cartridge...

see US Patent #3,246,121, March 15, 1966

(in fact, the patent description denigrates use of a 'resilient' buffer)

willie
on the Gulf of Mexico

[vaguru]

Originally Posted by Jammer22

This is a "don't shoot the messenger" kind of post. The guy who didn't maintain the 10/22 it is squarely to blame for the elongated hole. If the recoil spring was replaced, the bolt never ever touches the bolt stop. Members here have run glass rod buffers with no ill effect. The bolt stop pin is a saving device. ]

The elongation and peening had already been done when I bought the rifle. Maybe it needed a new recoil spring, maybe not. Don't know the type or number of rounds through it when purchased, so.....

At any rate it now has a nylon buffer/stop pin.

Recently found a new home in a Magpul X 22 stock, and likes to have a bit of pressure on the barrel. Shoots 1" groups at 50 yds with bulk Federal HVHP, good enough to eliminate a ground hog or two. That ammo with barrel free floated shot just under 3" at 50 yds.

[Toomany22s]

Originally Posted by linux_author

from what i've read, the bolt buffer - actually the "Breechblock Decelerator" - is an integral part of why the 10/22 action works so well - apparently it helps cam-lever the bolt, synching/slowing the action to allow time for the magazine to serve up the next cartridge...

see US Patent #3,246,121, March 15, 1966

(in fact, the patent description denigrates use of a 'resilient' buffer)

willie
on the Gulf of Mexico

Aha! So the steel buffer is better! Now I have to change them all back! Darn!

What about those glass rod stories and that they run without them stories and all that other stuff?

I just want ones that don’t fall out !

[mpolk]

I use the Viton buffer with the stainless pin. If it hits, it is much quieter and I mostly run suppressed, so the less noise the better. The action makes enough noise without it slapping against metal, LOL. BTW, it does reduce wear as per many opinions, including mine. JMHO which probably counts for zip.

[Toomany22s]

I agree they do make them quieter, but I really only use ones that don’t fall out, steel or plastic, as long as they stay put I use them. I hate when the pins fall out. Especially that little one for the magazine release /Bolt lock. lately I have been taping them

[mpolk]

Originally Posted by Toomany22s

I agree they do make them quieter, but I really only use ones that don’t fall out, steel or plastic, as long as they stay put I use them. I hate when the pins fall out. Especially that little one for the magazine release /Bolt lock. lately I have been taping them

I use a tiny piece of scotch tape on the one myself, lol

[linux_author]

Originally Posted by Toomany22s

Aha! So the steel buffer is better! Now I have to change them all back! Darn!

What about those glass rod stories and that they run without them stories and all that other stuff?

I just want ones that don’t fall out !

LOL! i know what you mean!

the info is just something i gleaned from a book on the history of Ruger and the 10/22... there's no way i'd spend $10 on a buffer, so i get one of these for $6 shipped and make nine buffers for my Rugers:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXJUMTL

i put 'em in and take 'em out using a cheap bamboo dowel...

(but i always stick a spare factory buffer in the range bag)

willie
on the Gulf of Mexico