Mainspring housing latch

[FredVK]

Originally Posted by Test_Engineer

First, remove your MSH and close the latch. Take some sandpaper and smooth out the round surface.
Next, open the latch and add a little radius where the flat and round portions meet. The sharp corner transition makes the latch a bear to open.
Lastly, smooth up the flat area and your new radius.
You'll be AMAZED at how much nicer your housing will open and close!

That's a great tip. Never realized this. I've two of my MKIIs with tight latches I'd like to try that on.

[RUT]

>> A "Gunsmither " tool also works excellent to manipulate a Ruger MK pistol.<<

Works for me!

[Dcarey51]

I polished mine as well and I use a pulled open paperclip (small loop section) epoxied into a 9mm spent cartridge (Large loop epoxied into the cartridge). Been using that setup since the 60's.

[edlmann]

Originally Posted by JStacy

A "Gunsmither " tool also works excellent to manipulate a Ruger MK pistol.

These have been discontinued by Brownells but still available directly from the maker.

[flgolfer29]

Originally Posted by HIghstandardguy

Sometimes you just need the right tool to open them up. Here is what I use. The top "tool" is a split ring with both ends of a 12" coated steel fishing leader attached that cost $2 - $3. It will not scratch, scrape or mar anything. Loop it over the lever and pull away.

Followed your lead, works great.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

[LongRod]

Originally Posted by HIghstandardguy

Sometimes you just need the right tool to open them up. Here is what I use. The top "tool" is a split ring with both ends of a 12" coated steel fishing leader attached that cost $2 - $3. It will not scratch, scrape or mar anything. Loop it over the lever and pull away. Bottom is the small screwdriver blade of a Leatherman Micra which cost a little more except I already had it. Use this with caution because it can make some nasty scratches if you're not careful, the same as any other screwdriver you might use.

[The fishing leader does work great. I started using one in the 1980's but I eventually lost it. Now I just use a lady's bobby pin. A whole box of them are dirt cheap. Just slip the eye of the bobby pin over the end of the lever and pull. No. scratches on your mainspring housing.]

[oldbird13]

Originally Posted by HIghstandardguy

Sometimes you just need the right tool to open them up. Here is what I use. The top "tool" is a split ring with both ends of a 12" coated steel fishing leader attached that cost $2 - $3. It will not scratch, scrape or mar anything. Loop it over the lever and pull away. Bottom is the small screwdriver blade of a Leatherman Micra which cost a little more except I already had it. Use this with caution because it can make some nasty scratches if you're not careful, the same as any other screwdriver you might use.

I would definitely go with the string and ring as opposed to any kind of metal prying.

[oldbird13]

I own the Gunsmither tool for my Rugers and it works great.

[Theo98]

Originally Posted by edlmann

These have been discontinued by Brownells but still available directly from the maker.

Yep, the GST does work very well in releasing Standard-MkIII MS latches "without a scratch". I really like the internal pin used to release spring tension on the extractor...very robust and works Great. One has permanent residence in my range bag!

Ted

[gmd1950]

Originally Posted by oldbird13

I own the Gunsmither tool for my Rugers and it works great.

Originally Posted by Theo98

Yep, the GST does work very well in releasing Standard-MkIII MS latches "without a scratch". I really like the internal pin used to release spring tension on the extractor...very robust and works Great. One has permanent residence in my range bag!

Ted

These....

[Test_Engineer]

The Gunsmither Pistol Pal was designed to provide 3 tools in 1. A loop for pulling out the takedown latch, a punch for driving out the bolt stop pin, and a pin for depressing the extractor plunger.

I sure could have used one when I bought my first MKIII. That, and a 5lb sledge hammer.

Anyway, after radiusing the latch as in post 4, I open it easily now with my thumbnail. After deburring the stop pin holes in the receiver, the pin goes in and out easily by hand. And I added a notch to my extractor plunger to allow any small screwdriver to hold it back for replacing extractors.



I've found that I still need a second tool to wiggle the extractor free when using the push pin method. But it falls out on it's own when using the screwdriver slot.

Deburring the front and back of the frame made it easy to separate/join the receiver and frame without beating on the upper. I still use a small plastic hammer, but it only takes a couple light taps to get it done.

I always have a thumbnail and my Leatherman screwdriver with me. So carrying around extra tools is something I just prefer not to do.

[langenc]

Call and explain to Ruger-they may send you a replacement.

[Outbuilding]

I usually have to tap the business end of the barrel to align the bolt stop pin on my pistols. I also discovered if I tap the barrel to the rear before I attempt to remove the bolt stop pin, it comes out much easier. When the bolt and/or firing pin slams forward during cycling it moves the barrel assembly forward a tiny bit, just enough to make the pin difficult to remove.

Have a blessed day,

Leon