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First 10/22 build, its for my mom :)

2K views 27 replies 5 participants last post by  J5guy 
#1 ·
Hello,

I asked in another thread about an auto rifle for my mother to shoot in rimfire matches. 10/22 seemed to be the best option. Matches consist of paper at 50 and 100, KYL at 75 yards, match sticks at 25 yards and 25 knock downs (5 min, 50 shots) out to 200, which he is changing to 300yrds now after me and one other guy cleared it last match. My mom came and watched and now wants to try, but doesn't want to work a bolt, hence the auto. Anyways that's the back story.

I picked up a used 10/22 at the local pawn shop yesterday. I want to do some basic upgrades without spending a crazy amount of money. This is what I know I am doing.

- BX trigger upgrade
- Extended mag release
- Kidd auto bolt release
- I am going to stick with factory barrel for now, unless it does not perform.
- sticking with factory stock for now as well, need to tune an hopefully shim to
allow for free floating, suggestions welcome.

What i am not set on is the bolt. I know it is recommended to send out to CPC and have it worked on but for $50 more bucks would I be better off buying a Kidd bolt? There is a little bit of a time crunch, next match is coming up, want to have it ready for it.

Also, looking for recommendations for an extended charging handle. If I go the Kidd bolt route I would most likely go Kidd for this as well.

If I go with the Kidd bolt route I will only have ~$375 into the gun which includes getting her 2- 25 rd bx mags. I got a good deal on the gun. :) Which is under the $400 before the optic budget I was aiming for. Any other suggestions on upgrades are welcome.

A couple issues i have encountered with the gun I am looking for some knowledge on. The trigger group wiggles a little bit, Not sure if that will go away with the BX trigger or how to fix if it doesn't. When i dismantled the gun the barrel slipped off the receiver with no issue and wiggles when inserted into receiver, so the fit is not tight. This seems like it will be an issue. Any suggestions welcome.

This forum has been awesome while getting into rimfire shooting and I appreciate everyone's time and willingness to help.

Thank you,

Jason
 
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#4 ·
I'm not sure what you mean? I didn't want to upgrade my pretty much brand new 10/22 so I picked up a used one to upgrade, I chose parts that fit my plan so far and have other questions about simply buying a new Kidd bolt vs sending in the stock one, time issue as I stated. I also ran into a couple issues with the new rifle I was looking for suggestions on fixing. Is that not what this thread is for? I explained exactly what the rifle will be used for in this post. The only suggestion I have not followed yet is sending it to CPC. If that is the answer for all of these issues then I guess yes, I did not follow any of the suggestions.
 
#3 · (Edited)
As far as the bolt I would just get the Kidd and sell the OEM to get back a few bucks. Kidd bolt guide rods are the best hands down and make the action feel much smoother. So I would recommend the Kidd charging handle and rod. You can pick up some oversized trigger pins pretty cheap on eBay or again from Kidd to tighten up your trigger group. And a Gunsmither's block should help put some tension on a loose fitting barrel. The only other thing I would recommend is an aftermarket bolt buffer to soften the feel of the bolt hitting. Other than that you should be good to go until you inevitably decide to get an aftermarket barrel.....

I hadn't seen your other post, but I would have to agree with everyone else as far as just sending the whole OEM rifle to Randy at CPC for the "Full Tune-up".
 
#5 ·
Awesome, thank you for the help with the issues and some other suggestions. I was hoping the issues were a fairly easy fix. I didn't really want to send the bolt in if spending an extra $50 was worth it in the long run, not to mention hopefully a little faster. I'm sure a new stock and barrel will be in the future. My original post I just decided instead of sending in my pretty much brand new rifle, I would buy a used one and upgrade it myself. Seemed to be a better option / learn to fish etc. kind of moment.

I appreciate your time.

Jason
 
#6 ·
No problem. Just be careful, 10/22's can become pretty addictive. I only had one when I first found RFC. Now I have over a dozen custom 10/22's and have built around 30. Good luck with your rifle. You really can't go wrong with anything from Kidd. CPC is a great option also for an OEM 10/22. He works basically every part of the rifle and will make them shoot reliably and to their full potential for only $200. That's quite a bargain considering I've spent $330 just on some of my triggers.
 
#10 ·
I can already see myself getting way too into this. I like tinkering with projects. I got it all put together and took her out, everything ran great. The bolt buffer is like the best thing ever, I shot my OEM then this one, night and day difference. I put a bipod on it, she liked shooting mine that had one, and since I am using the factory stock I left the barrel band off to see how it shot. AT 50 yards shooting Winchester Super X high velocity to sight in and do some plinking I was shooting around a 1 inch group. So not bad for stock used barrel and non match ammo. I have a lot of testing to do. I may send my OEM to CPC just to see how it stacks up against this one, but I kind of like the fin of doing it myself. Thanks for the help.
 
#7 ·
To answer your question, you don’t need a new bolt. The oem bolt is fine. The Bx trigger is fine don’t need the extended mag release or the auto bolt release. The bx mag release works just fine, and if you want the auto bolt release feature, watch utube , you just have to grind off a little tab on the oem one. Also skip the Kidd charging handle and spring, while they are superior, not necessary, and a pia to get the non captured spring in place.

I am concerned that the barrel just fell out. Was there a V Block? That sucker should’ve been in there tight, even without a v block. The gunsmither block is not a v block, it’s a great product but you have to file a flat spot on the barrel for it to work properly. Along with the oversized trigger pins the same guy sells an oversized v block that I have found to be excellent.

S&P outfitters is also a good source for parts , use code RFC for a 5% discount, and Rimfire Sports is also a good source.

A plastic bolt buffer is what a lot of people use. Me I like the oversized stainless one sold by the eBay guy..

To.make this a good shooter, it’s gonna need a pressure pad or two, bicycle inner tube works fine, or go to a hardware stor and find something similar. I put one under the fat end of the barrel where the action climbs out of the stock, and if needed under the barrel where the barrel band is.

As to why you don’t need a custom bolt, it doesn’t make it more accurate, maybe more reliable, but I have both and can’t tell the difference. If you want one wait till JWH has a sale and pick one up with a charging handle for $50. Some times they auction them off on eBay and you can get a better price.

As to why we are snarky. When people ask for advice and we give it and they don’t follow it we feel disrespected. Now as the first guy in the other post to tell you , send it to CPC , please be advised while that is the obviously best choice, that I have never done so myself. I want too, but every time I buy a 1022 I end up tweaking it myself cause like you , apparently I am an idiot. And it’s ok:cool:

Another thing , the torque on the action screw is critical, too little and the action moves too tight and the action is stressed , either thing adverse effects accuracy.

I have found that a few strips of aluminum tape, like hvac guys use on both sides o of the receiver helps hold the action in the stock tight on a horizontal axis , something the screw , vertical axis can’t do.

Good luck, and make your mom happy.
 
#11 ·
To answer your question, you don't need a new bolt. The oem bolt is fine. The Bx trigger is fine don't need the extended mag release or the auto bolt release. The bx mag release works just fine, and if you want the auto bolt release feature, watch utube , you just have to grind off a little tab on the oem one. Also skip the Kidd charging handle and spring, while they are superior, not necessary, and a pia to get the non captured spring in place.

I am concerned that the barrel just fell out. Was there a V Block? That sucker should've been in there tight, even without a v block. The gunsmither block is not a v block, it's a great product but you have to file a flat spot on the barrel for it to work properly. Along with the oversized trigger pins the same guy sells an oversized v block that I have found to be excellent.

S&P outfitters is also a good source for parts , use code RFC for a 5% discount, and Rimfire Sports is also a good source.

A plastic bolt buffer is what a lot of people use. Me I like the oversized stainless one sold by the eBay guy..

To.make this a good shooter, it's gonna need a pressure pad or two, bicycle inner tube works fine, or go to a hardware stor and find something similar. I put one under the fat end of the barrel where the action climbs out of the stock, and if needed under the barrel where the barrel band is.

As to why you don't need a custom bolt, it doesn't make it more accurate, maybe more reliable, but I have both and can't tell the difference. If you want one wait till JWH has a sale and pick one up with a charging handle for $50. Some times they auction them off on eBay and you can get a better price.

As to why we are snarky. When people ask for advice and we give it and they don't follow it we feel disrespected. Now as the first guy in the other post to tell you , send it to CPC , please be advised while that is the obviously best choice, that I have never done so myself. I want too, but every time I buy a 1022 I end up tweaking it myself cause like you , apparently I am an idiot. And it's ok:cool:

Another thing , the torque on the action screw is critical, too little and the action moves too tight and the action is stressed , either thing adverse effects accuracy.

I have found that a few strips of aluminum tape, like hvac guys use on both sides o of the receiver helps hold the action in the stock tight on a horizontal axis , something the screw , vertical axis can't do.

Good luck, and make your mom happy.
Thanks for the reply, I didn't mean to ask for advice and not follow it but the more I read about building them it seemed it was more up my alley then sending it off. I should have stated that in my post. I enjoy working on stuff like this and you don't learn if you don't try.

I have been reading up about the "tuning" aspect and I will definitely give the tire tube a try, Well I'll probably try all of them. The bolt that came in the gun was somewhat pitted on the bottom and was overall just not well, shiny. I decided to get a new one and figured it certainly couldn't hurt.

The barrel had a v block and just fell out of the receiver. Everything I know and everything I have read says this is bad. But, I got some ok groups the first time out and am well aware this is not going to be a 1 hole gun. Time will tell I guess. More upgrades ahead if it is a big issue.

The auto bolt release was more of a bells and whistles thing for her. The easier the gun is to use, hopefully the more she will use it. Now I have the stock one I took out to try my hand at modifying.

What torque is recommended? Or what is the starting and don't go past point?

I appreciate your time.

thanks,
 
#12 ·
I don't think he's coming back. Which is a shame. We were too hard on him. Which is a shame. These young people today aren't used to being told that they might be wrong. And us old people better get used to it:eek:
Oh I'm still here just haven't had time to hop on, and I don't get emails when you guys post, I am going to have to figure out how to remedy that. I have no problem being wrong and trust me, you will not hurt my feelings. 25 years in the construction trades can give you some thick skin. Also, I'm not that young. :)
 
#14 ·
So the vblock fell out? It should have screws. Sometimes people strip these . That is bad. The vblock is designed to hold the barrel in place cause otherwise the pounding of the bolt will push it out. But these screws just need to be hand tightened, not torqued down.

As for the take down screw start a 20 inch lbs and work your bump to 30 . No further.


The other screw holes that are easy to strip are the ones on top for the rail. The aluminum receiver is soft. So be gentle.

Try the Tire tube under the spot where the barrel band is and barrel band back on. Just a little 1/2 inch square. Also at the very back of the barrel . And use CCI Sv it’s cheap and good . Also Aquila Sv. All 40 grain. Round nose . No copper.

Bipods shoot better off of pads , buy a garden knee pad, stiff foam rubber and put it under the bipod feet.

Have fun, lots of stuff to do. I’m glad your mom likes shooting too!

Welcome aboard, and sorry I thought you were a millennial, :eek:
 
#15 ·
So the vblock fell out? It should have screws. Sometimes people strip these . That is bad. The vblock is designed to hold the barrel in place cause otherwise the pounding of the bolt will push it out. But these screws just need to be hand tightened, not torqued down.

As for the take down screw start a 20 inch lbs and work your bump to 30 . No further.

The other screw holes that are easy to strip are the ones on top for the rail. The aluminum receiver is soft. So be gentle.

Try the Tire tube under the spot where the barrel band is and barrel band back on. Just a little 1/2 inch square. Also at the very back of the barrel . And use CCI Sv it's cheap and good . Also Aquila Sv. All 40 grain. Round nose . No copper.

Bipods shoot better off of pads , buy a garden knee pad, stiff foam rubber and put it under the bipod feet.

Have fun, lots of stuff to do. I'm glad your mom likes shooting too!

Welcome aboard, and sorry I thought you were a millennial, :eek:
I must have changed something correctly, got an email this time. :bthumb: The vblock was bolted on and no issues with stripping. Once I removed the screws and the v-block the barrel fell right out of the receiver. So it has some play. A couple videos I watched the barrel was hard to remove and took heating or cooling to get it off. Seems the tighter it is the better it would be, barrel droop etc. Maybe this is not that large of an issue. I did not get the other block yet, but it is on my list.

Thank you for clarification on the torque and tire tube. I have a bunch of different types of ammo I am going to try, the ones you mentioned are on the list.

I usually shoot prone so bipod is the dirt but I will try to sit pad idea, she will be shooting from the bench.

Thanks again.
 
#17 ·
Agreed, a loose fitting barrel can cause alot of inconsistency when shooting making you think it might be other things that are wrong with the rifle. I've never actually had a barrel that was loose enough that it didn't have to be pulled out at least a bit firmly after removing the v-block, so I'm not sure exactly how you would fix that. I'm pretty sure the Gunsmither's block would help but it wouldn't actually be fixing the problem. I'm sure there's someone else on here who can chime in with a recommendation on how to fix a very loose fitting barrel. I start my torque setting at 15 and go up from there to a max of 30. Almost every one of my 10/22's shoot best with the torque set between 18-22 in/lbs.
 
#18 ·
I’m thinking some high heat metallic tape like used on auto mufflers might work . Wrapped around the tennon and wiggled into the receiver. And maybe an oversized v block that actually sits up against the barrel flat ant keeps it from moving side to side as well as from moving in and out. There’s a guy on eBay who sells one of those.
 
#19 ·
I'm thinking some high heat metallic tape like used on auto mufflers might work . Wrapped around the tennon and wiggled into the receiver. And maybe an oversized v block that actually sits up against the barrel flat ant keeps it from moving side to side as well as from moving in and out. There's a guy on eBay who sells one of those.
That sounds like it could probably work. To the OP though maybe call Randy at CPC and ask him if there's an easy fix for it.
 
#21 ·
It fell out I think we might have a bit more clearance here than.0003. . And alitltle wedging tight might be in order. Sounds like someone jammed one of those honking oversized Kidd’s into the receiver with a mallet. Then later bought a cooler receiver reassembled the doner gun and dumped at a lgs. MYbe jb weld would work?
 
#22 ·
So for curiosity sake I dismantled and measured the difference. The barrel measured .686 fairly consistently. Couple spots I got maybe .001 over. The receiver measured .689 to .690 depending on where I measured, which with the calipers I have and the scope being mounted it wasn't that easy of a measurement to get. So we are talking .003 to .004 difference.
 
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