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Old 06-29-2020, 09:13 PM
Vio

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Question Barrel too deep in receiver?



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I have two 10/22s, one I removed the barrel from in order to fix a stuck voltquartsen bolt, the other has never had the barrel removed.

The one that had the barrel removed, then re-attached seems like it's now too deep into the receiver. (see pictures for comparison.) is this because I tightened the V-block too much?

It no longer feeds properly. the rounds are blunting themselves before entering the barrel completely, and sometimes I have to force feed it by manually pushing the bolt forward. Additionally, it looks like my new voltquartsen bolt is now pressing the extractor too far into the extraction groove, as it's showing wear with only a few hundred rounds. is this okay/normal? Since the bolt face has to be flush against the barrel I can't really do anything about this can I?

What should I do? do I get a spacer to shim between the V-block in order to pull the barrel out some? do I try to remove the barrel and put it back on and not tighten it down so much?
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Old 06-29-2020, 09:40 PM
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First.. while you have the bolt removed do the ScotchBrite scrub...
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forum...ht=CrotchBrite

Clean it all out (squeeky) and use Hornady Once Shot Dry Lube on all metal-to-metal surfaces.. let it dry do not wipe.

https://www.chuckhawks.com/hornady_one_shot2.html

Back off the V-Block bolts and loosen the barrel/relax it from the Receiver.. then install the bolt/handle assembly and re-clock it/align and ONLY TIGHTEN to 12 inch lbs. - if you do not have a Torque screwdriver use 1 finger and thumb on the Allen wrench till snug.. then put the barreled action in the stock and ONLY TIGHTEN the take-down to 14-18 inch lbs.. that's 2 fingers and thumb till snug. NOT FARMER TIGHT.
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Old 06-29-2020, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Chaser View Post
-snip-
Back off the V-Block bolts and loosen the barrel/relax it from the Receiver.. then install the bolt/handle assembly and re-clock it/align and ONLY TIGHTEN to 12 inch lbs. - if you do not have a Torque screwdriver use 1 finger and thumb on the Allen wrench till snug.. then put the barreled action in the stock and ONLY TIGHTEN the take-down to 14-18 inch lbs.. that's 2 fingers and thumb till snug. NOT FARMER TIGHT.
Perhaps that was my issue. I think I probably tightened the snot out of it.
I was in the middle of a cleaning when I decided to take pictures of this.

so, I don't have a torque tool on me, but I've seen browning videos say that ruger's suggestion is 60in/lbs, but instead browning suggests 45in/lbs. are you saying I could have a much less firm hold and it will be fine? don't do a full fist grab and twist?
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Old 06-29-2020, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vio View Post
Perhaps that was my issue. I think I probably tightened the snot out of it.
I was in the middle of a cleaning when I decided to take pictures of this.

so, I don't have a torque tool on me, but I've seen browning videos say that ruger's suggestion is 60in/lbs, but instead browning suggests 45in/lbs. are you saying I could have a much less firm hold and it will be fine? don't do a full fist grab and twist?
O..M...Gawd = that's outrageous and they should be sued... not even close.. at 30-35 inch lbs. they should start stripping/break... and yes I have seen that done.

Here it is from a EXPERT = Tony Kidd ... keep in mind this is when mounting his barrels.. extremely tight fit.. the OEM's are not.
"First, make sure the receiver extension hole is clear of paint or debris. Start the barrel extension into the receiver getting the barrel dovetail cut lined up with the bottom of the receiver. If snug, apply some anti-seize compound to the extension of the barrel. If the receiver will not slip onto the barrel with hand force, use a rubber mallet to lightly tap the rear of the receiver onto the barrel leaving it about a quarter inch out. Take great care in always keeping the barrel and receiver in line while installing. Finally, wrap some paper or cloth around the barrel and put it in a vice so that the dovetail of the barrel is facing up. Put a level across the dovetail and another level across the top of the receiver to make sure that both levels match. Then again lightly tap the back of the receiver to get the final seeding. Attach the v-block and screws, then tighten to snug about 10 inch pounds. Barrel and receiver should move as one and not as two pieces after installation is complete. By leveling the dovetail and the receiver, your extractor will be timed."
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Last edited by Chaser; 06-29-2020 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 06-29-2020, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Chaser View Post
-snip-
sorry, BOWNELLS, not browning. here is where I got that information.
and he says "some manufacturers" not ruger specifically. I was wrong.
https://youtu.be/LQPBox61ohs?t=155
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Old 06-29-2020, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vio View Post
sorry, BOWNELLS, not browning. here is where I got that information.
and he says "some manufacturers" not ruger specifically. I was wrong.
https://youtu.be/LQPBox61ohs?t=155
That JackAss is an IDIOT.
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Old 06-30-2020, 10:08 AM
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Those bolts are threaded into aluminum. As Chaser said, that guy is!!!!

Even in my steel receivers, I only use 10 inch pounds. All you are try to do is keeping it from moving or coming out. It is true that with a sloppy fit it may take more torque to keep it from moving, but not that much. The key to accuracy with the slip fit barrel is tight tolerances between the barrel and receiver. That is what makes the Kidd barrels so nice.
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Old 06-30-2020, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaser View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vio View Post
sorry, BOWNELLS, not browning. here is where I got that information.
and he says "some manufacturers" not ruger specifically. I was wrong.
https://youtu.be/LQPBox61ohs?t=155
That JackAss is an IDIOT.
+1 That is one of the worst 10/22 assembly/ disassembly videos I've ever seen. The V-block's "Sometimes they crack". I'm sure they might at 45 - 65 in/lbs. And why would you need to remove a sling to change a barrel......?
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