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  #1  
Old 02-20-2021, 09:52 AM
WilCox
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MKIV 22/45 Hammer



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I can't say what the availability might be for MKIV 22/45 Lites anywhere else, but there's none to be found around my neck of the woods. My LGS got one in (and I mean only one) and I happened to be there when they put it in their display case. I bought it.

Mine is model #43927, black with a gold barrel and trigger. I checked it out, put a VQ trigger in and took it to the range the next day. Trigger pull is about 4-5 lbs with the factory internals. It breaks clean and groups at about 2-1/2" at 10 yards with open sights. After 140 rounds of Mini Mags, the front sight vibrated loose and I called it a day. Cleaned sight screw & hole with degreaser at home, then put sight back on with blue loctite. I did the same with the rail.

FWIW, I'm not that big on the all black MKIV bolt with its tapered ears so I use a MK2 bolt with straight ears. Looks better, feels better, all that good stuff. I did put the MKIV guide rod on the MK2 bolt.

Two days later my VQ Accurizing Kit arrived. Installed the kit using a MK2 hammer in place of the VQ hammer. I've always preferred the MK2 hammer over the VQ because of light strike problems in the past. Trigger pull is about 2 lbs with VQ sear.

I went back to the range with a Sig Sauer red dot mounted. After maybe 100 rounds of Fed 36 bulk, the rail vibrated loose. Really? So I took the red dot off and shot with open sights. The curious thing is the gun was grouping worse with the VQ kit than with the factory internals. At 10 yards with the red dot, it was initially grouping under 2" as I sighted it in, but got progressively worse with more rounds. All of my flyers were going out at 1:30.

With open sights, the grouping looked like a shotgun. At 15 yards I couldn't keep 10 shots on a 6" target. With my MK3 22/45 Target, I can group at 2" regularly at 15 yards with open sights and bulk ammo.

Back home I looked more closely at the internals. This is what I suspect is going on. The 22/45 hammer spacer that comes with the VQ kit does not fit flush on a MK2 hammer due to the hammer strut pin being too large in diameter. It will not fit in the frame with a spacer in place. Without a spacer, the MK2 hammer has too much side-to-side play. I believe when released, it wobbles as it moves forward and creates vibration. This vibration and random wobble effects inherent accuracy and also causes the screws to work loose. The more I shoot, the worse it gets.

Bottom line is I pulled the MK2 hammer and put in the VQ hammer with its spacer. The fit is tight, the side play is gone and there is no wobble in the released position. I also put some purple loctite on the safety screw since it had worked loose too.

Plan is to get back to the range next day or so to see if I fixed the problem. Anyone have something like this happen to them?

Also, I'll put a pic up later today because you don't really have a new toy until you do that.
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  #2  
Old 02-20-2021, 06:18 PM
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AzShooter
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As far as checkered grips for the Mark IV 22/45 Lite I like StonerCNC.com and have them on both my Lite's.

The front sight screw is notorious about coming loose. I clean with rubbing alcohol, blow dry and then use Blue Loctite. Make sure you let it sit for 24 hours or it will just come loose again.

I have found that the little spacer for the Lite is very important to functioning. I left it out once and had lots of failure to fires. Put it in and now the gun works like a champ.
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  #3  
Old 02-20-2021, 07:41 PM
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Like AzShooter said, it's important to let the Loctite set up before shooting again.

Beyond that, I think the problem may be with the shooter. That's not intended to be insulting, but to relate my experience instead. I thought my mk3 pistol (w/ VQ trigger) suffered from "cold barrel fliers". So I intentionally left it dirty after a shooting session so the barrel would be pre-seasoned with lube from the ammo I normally shoot. I brought it in cold to my shooting range and let a seasoned competitive shooter see if the fliers were due to me or the gun. He proved to me that I was the problem.

So I took the gun home and practiced my trigger pull while aimed at an outlet across the basement. What I found was the sight picture moved during pull unless my finger was in a very precise location. It went very much like this drawing indicates:



The problem didn't exist with my mk2 (w/ factory trigger). What I determined was the ridge-faced mk2 trigger gave my trigger finger a point of reference, whereas the smooth-faced VQ trigger did not. So I added a "bump" to my VQ trigger:



Once my finger learned where the bump should be...



... the sight picture quit moving and my fliers disappeared. Both pistols can now keep 3/4" groups at 15 yards with open sights.

I suggest you let a "known good" shooter try your pistol from a rested position. It may point your problem right into the mirror - like it did me.
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Old 02-20-2021, 08:34 PM
WilCox
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Thanks, AzShooter. I'll check out the Stoner grips. As for the loctite, I think the rail coming loose was more my not getting the holes clean enough for it to work. At least it didn't nearly helicopter off like the front sight did the first time. I'll try some rubbing alcohol like you suggested.

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Originally Posted by Test_Engineer View Post
Beyond that, I think the problem may be with the shooter. That's not intended to be insulting, but to relate my experience instead.
No offense taken here. Thanks for your input. I have VQ triggers on my MK3 and MK4 so feel-wise they're the same. Now getting my finger correctly and consistantly in the same spot on the trigger is a different issue. I think your suggestion to create a "bump" is a good one. Also thanks for taking the time to add the visual aids.
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Old 03-28-2021, 10:01 AM
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I am interested as to how you created the "bump"? My overtravel screw sticks out a bit and gives me a reference. It would be nice if it was the nice round bump you have.
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Old 03-28-2021, 02:18 PM
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My overtravel screw is the shorter one that doesn't protrude. I had shot the pistol a couple years after adding blue Loktite, and never needed any more adjustment. So adding a cap (bump) would not conflict with access to the screw.

I'm kind of an opportunist when looking for material for mods. I have a kit with several sizes of pop rivets, and found the end of the stems had nice round end caps. So I took one the right size and tapped the stem out and cut the cap off the shaft. I smeared a teeny bit of quick set epoxy under the edge and set it in place.

A little paint thinner or similar solvent should take it off if ever I find need to access the screw, but again - that's not likely at this point.
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Old 03-30-2021, 07:51 PM
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Excellent, good do it yourself thinking! I appreciate the information.
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Old 03-31-2021, 07:51 AM
Bullet Bob
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These kind of threads always remind me of Jim Carmichael's great book on rifles. He describes an unnamed fellow writer who buys a rifle, and immediately does all the then current accuracy techniques so that he can have a rifle that shoots small groups. Mr. Carmichael wonders why the guy didn't at least try the gun stock first; maybe it shot even better, but he'll never know.
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  #9  
Old 03-31-2021, 05:07 PM
BadaBing11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilCox View Post

After 140 rounds of Mini Mags, the front sight vibrated loose
Every single screw on my mark Iv Hunter came loose. I had to blue loctite all of them . I think itís just a Ruger thing .
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Old 04-19-2021, 07:26 PM
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Interesting. I just came to this sub forum to post about the rail on my Mark IV 22/45 coming loose.

This evening I went to clean it after shooting a Steel Challenge match over the weekend and found the rail was loose. I have had the gun for two and a half years, but haven't shot it much.

I know it happens. I had a S&W 22A where the rail came loose. It is still disappointing.
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  #11  
Old 04-19-2021, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewald22 View Post
Interesting. I just came to this sub forum to post about the rail on my Mark IV 22/45 coming loose.

This evening I went to clean it after shooting a Steel Challenge match over the weekend and found the rail was loose. I have had the gun for two and a half years, but haven't shot it much.

I know it happens. I had a S&W 22A where the rail came loose. It is still disappointing.
Take off your rail, clean the holes with acetone and then use Blue Loctite on them. Let it sit for at least 24 hours before shooting the gun. That will keep your mount secure.
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Old 06-09-2021, 10:46 AM
FredJ_2008
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Hammer

Does anyone know what coating is on the MX IV 22/45 Lite?
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