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Ejector wire gage for Marlin 60

77K views 86 replies 48 participants last post by  rcolton 
#1 · (Edited)
I was thinking about how to help those without calipers tune or check their ejector wire for proper position. Just so happens that a Nickel is close enough in thickness to use as a gage for maximum height and side position. Of course I have only done this to my own. The action assembly is removed for this check.

I keep a Penny and a Nickel on my bench and use them as quick tools to check suspicious wire positions. I use the Nickle is a high limit .075 gage and a new Penney as a low-limit .060 gage. So anything in-between has been a good position so far.

"Nickel high & Nickel wide" is a good way to remember.

Place a Nickel on top of the feed-throat. Flush top of wire to top of the Nickel.


Push down the Lifter and place the Nickel on the inside of the feed-throat holding it straight up. Flush face of Nickel to side of wire.


For trouble free re-insertion of the action assembly, remember these 3 things to do beforehand.
1. Lock the bolt in the extreme back position. This prevents bending the ejector.
2. Remove the magazine chase tube. This prevents breaking the follower.
3. Cock the hammer. A simple no-go.

Here is the video version.
 
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#2 ·
I was thinking about how to help those without calipers tune or check their ejector wire for proper position. Just so happens that a Nickel is close enough in thickness to use as a gage for height and side position. Of course I have only done this to my own. The action assembly is removed for this check.

Place a Nickel on top of the feed-throat. Flush top of wire to top of the Nickel.


Push down the Lifter and place the Nickel on the inside of the feed-throat. Flush face of Nickel to side of wire.
Bloody BRILLIANT!! :D
 
#6 ·
Another vote for a sticky!

I just verified it on a '72 Model 60 with the early model feed throat and it works on that one as well.

I like it!

* Hadn't had that gun apart in so long that I couldn't find the Model 60 Custom Hammer Strut Retention Tool. Had to come back upstairs to find a new paper clip.

Bob
 
#10 ·
fit for a model 70 ejector

Just got my 1978 Glenfield model 70 for Christmas. Got a love it when my wife let's me pick up my own gift.

This was a pawn shop find and when I took it to the range on Saturday it really did not like feeding Remington Cyclone or Winchester Wildcats that I had on the bench. Ate and fired bulk Federal in the 525 loose pack.

Unfortunately it jammed up big time on the Remington and looks like it bent the heck out of the ejector. Does the nickel gauge work for these older Model 70's?
If not what are the specs for aligning my ejector. Also is there a part number for a pre LSHO ejector? I straightened it out at the range but it may be weakened from being bent and straightened.

Thanks I have learned a bunch about this great old gun.

Mike Q
 
#11 · (Edited)
#14 ·
I was thinking about how to help those without calipers tune or check their ejector wire for proper position. Just so happens that a Nickel is close enough in thickness to use as a gage for height and side position. Of course I have only done this to my own. The action assembly is removed for this check.

"Nickel high & Nickel wide" is a good way to remember.

Place a Nickel on top of the feed-throat. Flush top of wire to top of the Nickel.


Push down the Lifter and place the Nickel on the inside of the feed-throat holding it straight up. Flush face of Nickel to side of wire.


For trouble free re-insertion of the action assembly, remember these 3 things to do beforehand.
1. Lock the bolt in the extreme back position. This prevents bending the ejector.
2. Remove the magazine chase tube. This prevents breaking the follower.
3. Cock the hammer. A simple no-go.
I just tried this on my 60 SS. WOW! Ingenious! Went from multiple stovepipes per 14 rounds to 1 stovepipe out of 56 rounds! This works! :bthumb:
 
#15 ·
I was thinking about how to help those without calipers tune or check their ejector wire for proper position. Just so happens that a Nickel is close enough in thickness to use as a gage for height and side position. Of course I have only done this to my own. The action assembly is removed for this check.

"Nickel high & Nickel wide" is a good way to remember.

Place a Nickel on top of the feed-throat. Flush top of wire to top of the Nickel.


Push down the Lifter and place the Nickel on the inside of the feed-throat holding it straight up. Flush face of Nickel to side of wire.


For trouble free re-insertion of the action assembly, remember these 3 things to do beforehand.
1. Lock the bolt in the extreme back position. This prevents bending the ejector.
2. Remove the magazine chase tube. This prevents breaking the follower.
3. Cock the hammer. A simple no-go.
:bthumb: Now I have to check the one on my rifle out,I just did the trigger work and polished up the bolt,so this will finish things up:D thanks for the great Info! :Dra-63
 
#16 ·
I thought I would add a little bit of a supplemental... I've been really working on tweaking my Glenfield 60's ejector spring using this guide, but it has the old style feedthroat and the nickle trick wasn't really given me the best results.

I found an article somewhere explaining how to adjust the ejector spring... I can't find it now, but it went under the title of of, "Working the Marlin 60s" or something similar.

In any case, what I've found works best is to get it nickle flush as is described here on BOTH the old style feed-throats and the newer model ones. Then, with the bolt on top of the action assembly, visible inspect the cutout where the ejector spring lies. It should be flush with the top of the cut-out with the spring, but should also press against the inside of the bolt a little bit and gradually come out a bit as the bolt passes behind the front of the ejector wire.

Just got back from the range a few days ago using both methods, and both rifles cycled FLAWLESSLY through about 200 rounds each (maybe, 480 rounds overall between the two of them), and a buddy and I kind of got into a high round-per-minute plinking contest with them even.
 
#18 ·
In any case, what I've found works best is to get it nickle flush as is described here on BOTH the old style feed-throats and the newer model ones. Then, with the bolt on top of the action assembly, visible inspect the cutout where the ejector spring lies. It should be flush with the top of the cut-out with the spring, but should also press against the inside of the bolt a little bit and gradually come out a bit as the bolt passes behind the front of the ejector wire.
Would you be able to post a pic of the best for the Glenfield 60 like you describe with a nickle on it for reference??
 
#21 ·
Dano,

In case no one's said it already. Welcome to RFC.:Welcome::Welcome::Welcome:

With a few exceptions, RFC doesn't allow you to post pictures directly, you have to post them on a photo site, then link to them. It saves lots of disk space on RFC servers.

AD posts his pictures on shared.com, you may have to set your browser to allow that address. Others like me use photobucket.com and there are several more.

If you see a pic with a red X, right click on the pic and try 'open in new window', or 'view image info' so see if it's valid but your browser settings are blocking it.

Bob
 
#22 ·
Thanks from a nube

I was going crazy trying to figure out why my old trusty Model 60 was jamming up on every feed after I repaired the feed block. This nickel trick worked perfectly!! After making the adjustment to the wire even my cheapee Remington Thunderbolt ammo feeds perfectly.

Thanks, you are a life saver.
 
#30 ·
Okay, here, tried to get good pics of how to check with the nickle on the Glenfield 60... Excuse the cat hair...
Thank you so much! I got a '74 Glenfield Model 60 on Friday. The bolt was stuck, I took it apart, and cleaned the action, but when I hit the range I got FTE 90% of the time.

After seeing your post, I adjusted the ejector spring to look like your pictures, and I just ran 15 rounds though without a FTE!
 
#26 ·
Wisdom gained

Hey all,
ArrowDodger asked me to document my experience, so I am posting our PM's and a little explanation.
With his help I found a VERY small rough spot at the face of the bolt where the ejector spring contacts the edge of the shell case (in the corner) AND a swelling where the retaining pin goes through to hold the extraction arm in place. I used a very fine needle file and a caliper to make sure I didn't take TOO much off. I polished the filed surface and area with a Dremel buffing wheel. The results were remarkable. Details and maybe pictures on request, but I think you can get this. A properly aligned spring does little good unless the channel it is supposed to travel in (really, where the bolt travels over it) is TOTALLY unobstructed.
I hope this helps.
Terry
Our exchanges:
[Evening,
Thanks for the gauge thread, it helps. Possible I could pick your brain a little?
I have a 60 we have never used because it just doesn't seem to respond to ANY help for the "won't eject, jams the next shell" problem. Performing the nickel high, nickel wide check and adjusting the lie of the spring might have helped a little, but not much. Anything else I should be doing, at this point I am ready to start at scratch.

Ted, (sic- short for tedium27)
I would assume it is thoroughly clean around the extraction slots and fingers? Perhaps a finger is broken? Perhaps the chamber is too dirty or you have a burred edge there? Check the recoil spring and rod for straightness? I assume the action works freely without binding? Does it behave any better shooting CCI min-mags? Do you have another 60 you can swap out components with to pin-point the issue? At some point I would be happy to look at it and test out your bolt and action assembly on my gun if you like if you pay shipping both ways.
Regards,
Mark

WOW!- teeny, tiny little burr, right in the corner of the bolt assy. Put it back together and ROCK AND ROLL!!!! What a difference a day makes. Fast, slick (I use a micro ptfe lube). Tested it in sub-freezing North Idaho wind/snow storm and threw a full brick WITHOUT 1 single malfunction. Did not matter what kind of ammo I used. CCI, Remington, Blazer, good and bad it burns 'em all. Rather quickly switched to some round, liberated targets (orange colored orbs from the kitchen basket) and danced those things out to 80-90 yards with no problem. Cleaned her up, put her in a sock and scheduled a play date. Thanks!
I owe you man. Call it in anytime.
Terry]
p.s. Took her out for the play date with 2 of my sons and a great kid we know. Had the 60 and my 75C and a Ruger 10/22 (a nephew's gun, 'performance modified'). The difference between the 75C and the 60 was almost non-existent. The 10/22 wasn't even in the same "second grid" over a 10 shot round. NO MALFUNCTIONS!
 
#28 ·
I accidentally bent my ejector wire while cleaning my action. I spent 2 years trying to get that old 60 working right again including 2 trips to the gunsmith. I never got it working again until I came across this tip. Now it works like brand new again. Thanks a bunch. Now an old friend gets to stay with me a few more years.
 
#29 ·
What a great thread! My Glenfield 75 has always worked well with high velocity ammo but never very well with standard velocity. Yesterday I looked at the ejector wire and it was much higher than a nickel. I bent it down to nickel height and took it to the range today. Around 50 rounds of standard velocity and low noise subsonic failed to produce one malfunction.
 
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