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  #1  
Old 06-28-2017, 05:46 PM
jlorenzo

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good solvent for subsonic lead ammo



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Wondering what the go to lead dissolver, shoot a savage mkii 75% with sub sonic non jacketed bullets. Noticing a bit of build up just inside the crown of my barrel. Have been using mpro7 with good results, but bottle is almost out and I may have watered it down slightly. Just wondering if I should consider when I go buy new carbon remover/solvent.
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Old 06-28-2017, 11:50 PM
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Buy more M-Pro 7 you can't go wrong with it.
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Old 06-28-2017, 11:55 PM
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That was my plan. Seems to work really well. Side note would it be worth running copper remover say after shooting a bunch of jacketed supers? Kinda doubt it considering the velocities involved. I shoot the hell outta this gun and really only clean it with a brush maybe 3 times a year. Been working for me, had the gun about 3 years. At first it would need about 50 rounds to settle in but lately I have cleaned it with brush and patches then gone out and shot some 1/2-3/4 minute groups so who knows.
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Old 06-29-2017, 12:36 AM
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If accuracy begins to degrade.
I seldom clean a .22 rim fire barrel.
Never had one lead up at all.
One or two passes with a bore snake is sufficient.
Just my opinion.
I HATE the aluminum cleaning rods.
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Old 06-29-2017, 12:59 AM
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A little bronze wool wrapped around a well used bore brush will physically strip the lead out in a couple passes, no solvents required.
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Old 06-29-2017, 02:33 AM
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Being picky

Any chemical that "dissolves" lead or copper for that matter is going to adversely effect steel and will really screw up a chemical coating finish if you happen to use it without dismounting the action and get some on your stock. Also will screw you up!

What "gun product" solvents are designed to do is get between the lead or copper and the steel and break the bond allowing them to be removed via patches.

I don't recommend products and go out of my way to just post the chemical properties of them but IMO and IME I would stay away from KG12. Is a combination of Cyanide, Sulfonic Acid and Nitric Acid. Does dissolve both lead and copper but will etch the steel and dissolve plastics like the followers in magazines, and for sure can screw you over if you get some on your hands and don't wash it off fairly quickly. Vapors ain't exactly healthy for you either. Also will destroy most transparent wood finishes.

Something you would want to use like on WWII military rifles or pistola's etc. but IMO and IME put up for any other weapon.

noremf(George)

Last edited by noremf; 06-29-2017 at 02:43 AM.
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Old 06-29-2017, 06:57 AM
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Kroil is a penetrant and will get between the steel and the lead. Wet the affected area with a wet patch of it and leave it on there about 24 hours. Then use your cleaning brush to get the lead out.
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Old 06-29-2017, 05:02 PM
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I'm almost out of Hoppe's and want to try something specifically for .22s.
Anyone have any experience with Montana Extreme?

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/13...nt-6-oz-liquid
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Old 06-29-2017, 06:02 PM
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I'm a Ballistol guy, use it like how Kroil was described in an earlier post. Doesn't dissolve anything, just gets underneath and loosens it so a patch on a jag can do its work. It's also non-toxic and doesn't harm finishes and such. Smells good, too! (at least I think it does)
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Old 06-29-2017, 11:40 PM
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Ballistol and Kroil.

Both smell bad, Ballistol STINKS.
I don't care if it stinks.
Well.........................there was the time I dropped a container on the garage
floor and neighbors called haz-mat.
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:53 AM
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Ballistol smells like licorice or anise to me, not sweet like but not bad either. But I have used Shooters Choice Lead Remover for a leaded bore before; a little bit on a bronze brush followed up by a few patches of same followed by Ballistol, Eezox, or even WD40 as liquid cleaners that leave behind a rust inhibitor.
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Old 06-30-2017, 10:26 AM
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If you use only lead ammo you'll be surprised at how seldom you should have to clean it. I never use brushes on my match pistols; just an occasional patch or two with a bit of cleaner/solvent. I do thoroughly clean the rest of the gun of course.
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Old 06-30-2017, 04:43 PM
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Ballistol

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrblShtr View Post
I'm a Ballistol guy, use it like how Kroil was described in an earlier post. Doesn't dissolve anything, just gets underneath and loosens it so a patch on a jag can do its work. It's also non-toxic and doesn't harm finishes and such. Smells good, too! (at least I think it does)
It does harm finishes. Here is why.

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...09&postcount=7

Is also toxic and in the process of being banned.

While it does does a better job of getting under stuff like brass or lead then other stuff it cannot lift either so it can be removed by a patch. Need some type of brush to get that stuff out.

Ballistol contains at least between 60-100% Mineral Oil with a small amount of original formula Mineral spirits to thin it down.

"Ballistol (meaning 'Ballistic Oil') is a mineral oil-based chemical which advertises that it has many uses. It was originally intended for cleaning, lubricating, and protecting firearms."


ref: many.

It is really just Baby Oil. Albeit Ballistol calls it "food grade" Mineral Oil.

Could show you a bunch of pics where the finish was compromised but Photobucket cut me off so it would take awhile to reload em on Imgur.

Of course if you dismount the action before cleaning or lubing then there is not an issue along with wearing rubber gloves.

noremf(George)

TRIVIA: Many folks think that if a patch comes out a color, say greenish, that the bore cleaner is dissolving copper. Not true.

Both copper and lead create thin oxidized layers of either copper or lead when they are exposed to oxygen.

What most bore cleaners do is clean off that oxidation but they don't affect the copper or lead bonded to the steel of the bore. Oxidation can form in literally minutes as metals are exposed to oxygen. If you don't treat your bore, after cleaning, with a preservative and sealer, that also seals against oxygen, the next time you clean it it could be black or green again....which incorrectly leads folks to think that are significant deposits of lead or copper in the bore.

If the patches came out green then you are removing the copper oxide that has formed on the copper. If the patches come out grey then you are removing the lead oxide that has formed on the lead.

Last edited by noremf; 07-02-2017 at 07:59 AM.
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  #14  
Old 06-30-2017, 07:13 PM
25ring

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Turpentine on a tight patch will take lead out of a barrel. Been using it on my BPCR rifles for years.--Mike.
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  #15  
Old 06-30-2017, 07:14 PM
TrblShtr
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MSDS for Ballistol

The only thing I can find on a "ban" was in California in 2014. A brief search didn't indicate if that is still in effect or not, Prop 65 or otherwise. I wash my hands after use, mainly because I only use it to clean guns and I always wash my hands after cleaning guns.

As to the effectiveness of Ballistol with a patch on a jag, I can only relate my experience, which is that it is an effective method of cleaning a bore with minor leading. I tend to things before extreme leading takes place so I can't speak to the effectiveness of this method under those conditions.

I do have to walk back my statement "doesn't dissolve anything" as the MSDS indicates that "Ballistol dissolves traces of copper, zinc, lead and tombac...".

After years of regular use I haven't noticed any issues with wood finishes with the incidental exposures they have endured, but then I don't wipe down a stock with Ballistol and I typically run a clean cloth over my stocks as the final step in the cleaning process.
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