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To Drill &Tap or not

1K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  DannoBoone 
#1 ·
I like many here don't really care for the 11 mm scope rail after reading enough post I decided to go ahead a simple matter of plug screws if you don't like it. But when I go I m usually committed so bought some universal rail on EBay and had some 8x40 screws with drill & tap. Understand I consider myself an advanced hobbyist ( not a professional) I have a milling machine that makes jobs like this possible.the rail was thick enough to cut an 11 mm trough in it so I set it right down on top of the rail then epoxied it in place. After it dried I drilled it twice in back and once in front with 8x 40 screws it turned out very well and I will never worry about it again. In my opinion it was well worth the effort. Cost was about $15 and have enough for my other 2 rifles. I don't like what they have done with the pic situation here but can text them to interested people.
 
#3 ·
For those very few of us with the OP's skill set, the DIY version would be possible and desireable. The rest of us are gonna pay a little more for the excellent DIP rail, or something similar. Me? I use the polymer 11mm to Weaver adapters and Burris Signature Zee rings, for their many advantages. To each, his own.
 
#7 ·
Drill n tap

Well I knew I wouldn't make every one happy but some has had the same Ideas I had. I'm not sorry ,I tried several of the clamp on's and only one actually failed . Guess I just want a tank. The fuzzy pics from Photo bucket are what I was refering too seems like they are holding everyone hostage to me. I didn't feel I have hurt the gun and IT i'snt coming off.
 
#10 ·
Well I knew I wouldn't make every one happy but some has had the same Ideas I had. I'm not sorry ,I tried several of the clamp on's and only one actually failed . Guess I just want a tank. The fuzzy pics from Photo bucket are what I was refering too seems like they are holding everyone hostage to me. I didn't feel I have hurt the gun and IT i'snt coming off.
The OP, like anyone else, is free to use or prefer the mounting system of his choice, be it tank-like or not. Sometimes, however, it appears that the choice may be based on a misunderstanding of the nature of dovetail mounts.

European rimfire rifles are made with dovetails because they are more than enough to mount a scope without risk of moving, tank-like or not. High end target rifles used in position shooting such as that seen in the Olympics have dovetail grooves for their expensive aperture sight systems. Shooters at this level expect rock-solid sight attachment and they get that with the dovetails.

Good quality dovetail rings will not break nor will they move. They are solid and very reliable. The preference for weaver-style rings and picatinny-style rails is a North American preference that no doubt emerged from the desire to securely mount optics on heavy recoiling centerfire rifles. Rimfire rifles, especially the .22LR, has less recoil than an air rifle. Dovetail rings are more than sufficient. When properly used, quality dovetail rings are very secure and dependable.

There may be additional reasons to use weaver-style rings and rails, such as versatility for those interested in frequent scope swaps between rifles, more familiarity with commonly seen North American scope mounting systems, or the desire to make a rimfire rifle more closely mimic a centerfire rifle. But unless a rifle and scope combination is going to be subjected to extraordinary abuse in the field of a kind that would wreck havoc on a wood stock, shooters should not mistake a dovetail mounting system as lacking the solidity required for typical rimfire use in the field or at the range.
 
#8 ·
This is just my opinion. Back when I had CZ's and Anschutz rifles, they all had 11mm rings on them. Adding another part, just adds to a list of.... what is wrong when your gun is not grouping like it should. Extra screws to check. You are just adding extra parts where none are needed. I see nothing wrong with using the groove on the receiver. I know many who have added a rail and not had issue also, but why take that risk? Maybe you get a bad rail that is just a tad, maybe .001" off from one end to the other. Just sayin. :bthumb:

When you just have rings. all of those screws can be checked without removing the scope. When you add a base, you have to remove your scope to check the screws in the base.
 
#9 ·
D&t

Yes nothing is perfect I wanted a large rail but the other bolt ons were just too light weight for me and the few I tried just didn't suit me . I thought long and hard before committing that's why I job welded it and used 8x40 screws that will be red loctited in.This is as permanent of an installation as I can do. I actually considered milling the rail off to make a flat top but that would have reduced the stiffness of the receiver.Its not for everybody but I'm trying to build a robust rifle that won't break. I guess I should have gotten a voo do but I can work on this one. I'll prob start a riot here but I personally consider the 455 a good place to start,not the finished product I'm looking for.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Yes, to each his own. I am perfectly happy with 11mm grooves on the receiver. I have access to a milling machine and other machining equipment and the experience to do this myself, yet I have no desire to drill and tap any of my rimfires for Weaver/Picatinny type mounts.

Never had a problem with BKL rings moving in the dovetail and I will be trying a set of rings from D3 Precision soon on my Anschutz match rifle. I love being able to easily remove the scope (keeping the rings attached to the scope) and install my match diopter sights, and back again, for iron sight to any sight matches-sometimes on the same day. They even stay almost perfectly sighted in between changes.

Most other prone smallbore competitors I know do the same.
 
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