MKIII 22/45 mods, my way. - Page 9 - RimfireCentral.com Forums

Go Back   RimfireCentral.com Forums > >

Notices

Join Team RFC to remove these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #121  
Old 05-23-2009, 04:29 AM
FuRyInYoFaCe

Join Date: 
Jul 2007
Location: 
GA
Posts: 
32
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)


Log in to see fewer ads
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobK View Post
Very little spring pressure . To much and it may keep the bolt stop from going all the way up . Another member on here just had that problem and cured it with a lighter spring .
is there a thread about this said lighter spring?? the springs i have all have different diameters and i would like to drill a hole the correct size the first time for the best and correct, in the lack of words, air space between each coil, spring. yea im one of those anal perfectionists and i hate it sometimes...
Reply With Quote
  #122  
Old 05-23-2009, 08:26 AM
goneracin

Join Date: 
Dec 2008
Posts: 
38
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
I used the smallest diameter spring from several bic lighters that were sacrificed for this. Just drill the hole slightly bigger than the spring, lightly chamfer/debur the top of the hole. I then kept assembling/disassembling the gun, cutting 1 coil at a time from the spring, until it ran and locked back every time. Mine has the spring not quite touching the top of the hole when its dropped down.
Reply With Quote
  #123  
Old 06-02-2010, 06:45 PM
'65 Topless's Avatar
'65 Topless

Join Date: 
Sep 2003
Posts: 
110
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
*Bump* so I can find it again
Reply With Quote
  #124  
Old 08-28-2010, 12:34 PM
copter_dad

Join Date: 
Aug 2008
Posts: 
2
TPC Rating: 
100% (1)
Mag release spring

For a wonderful selection of springs, visit your local locksmith. They have many sizes from behind the tumblers on residential locks.
Reply With Quote
  #125  
Old 10-10-2010, 09:32 PM
docporter

Join Date: 
Oct 2010
Posts: 
19
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Slingshot mod using torsion spring

It is very easy to make a torsion spring for the slingshot mod on the Ruger 22/45. It is a "drop-in" mod that doesn't require any drilling or modification to the pistol except removing the detent spring and pin from the bolt stop assembly. The torsion spring is installed around the trigger pin and is placed between the frame and the bolt stop assembly. It has to be small-diameter spring and there is room for only one coil. A spring with a 90-degree angle is perfect, but a 180-degree spring can be easily modified to work. I used the 180-degree spring from a small toggle bolt (used fasten objects to sheet rock) that I got from Walmart (has to be the small toggle bolt - the spring in the 3/16 and larger is too big). The mod takes about 5 minutes. The only tool required is small, needle-nose pliers to bend the spring. After you make up the spring, slide the trigger pin out just far enough to drop the spring in place, slide the pin back into place and you are done. I made up some diagrams, instructions and pictures which I will attach to this post.

Cheers,

Docporter

Well, I don't know what's wrong with this board, but it says I "may not" post attachments and I can't find any way to fix that. You can see my diagrams and instructions and pictures of the spring installed by clicking on the following URL's:
http://www.docporter.com/slingshot1.jpg
http://www.docporter.com/slingshot2.jpg
http://www.docporter.com/spring_ready_to_install.jpg
http://www.docporter.com/spring_installed.jpg

Last edited by docporter; 10-12-2010 at 12:22 PM. Reason: can't post attachments
Reply With Quote
  #126  
Old 01-26-2012, 01:49 AM
SnakeShooter17
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Jan 2012
Location: 
Southern Idaho
Posts: 
24
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Since I am a new 22/45 Mark III owner, I was digging in the forums and came across this thread. I love DIY projects, because I'm poor but have skilled hands and a few stones to work with. I do all of my own work, even on my Jeep Cherokee (imagine that). As for the last post here about the torsion spring slingshot modification, could someone please post some updated pictures of that particular spring? I can't seem to find any anywhere else... THANK YOU ALL
Reply With Quote
  #127  
Old 01-29-2012, 03:05 AM
SnakeShooter17
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Jan 2012
Location: 
Southern Idaho
Posts: 
24
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
Can anyone get me some pictures of the torsion spring modification?
Reply With Quote
  #128  
Old 01-29-2012, 01:53 PM
jrprich

Join Date: 
Jan 2012
Location: 
PNW
Posts: 
230
TPC Rating: 
100% (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by docporter View Post
\ I made up some diagrams, instructions and pictures which I will attach to this post.

Cheers,

Docporter

Well, I don't know what's wrong with this board, but it says I "may not" post attachments and I can't find any way to fix that. You can see my diagrams and instructions and pictures of the spring installed by clicking on the following URL's:
http://www.docporter.com/slingshot1.jpg
http://www.docporter.com/slingshot2.jpg
http://www.docporter.com/spring_ready_to_install.jpg
http://www.docporter.com/spring_installed.jpg
I would like to see these but all the links appear to go to dead pages?

Jim
Reply With Quote
  #129  
Old 01-29-2012, 05:53 PM
SnakeShooter17
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Jan 2012
Location: 
Southern Idaho
Posts: 
24
TPC Rating: 
0% (0)
That's what I was driving at. All the links are old and broken.
Reply With Quote
  #130  
Old 02-03-2012, 12:35 AM
bedoe
NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Jul 2010
Posts: 
28
TPC Rating: 
100% (2)
Slingshot mod. I utilized the factory detent by drilling a small receiving dent into the top of the hole in the frame and then I also drilled the lever in two stages, first the small hole that just fits the spring and then widened it with a larger drill so that the detent would be able to collapse the spring and rest in the lever button.
the first pic shows the pieces assembled into a "prototype" there was much fiddling and adjusting to get it just right, the spring wound up being much shorter to give the proper amount of tension to hold it down while still being able to keep the slide held back if you want to raise the lever and engage the bolt hold back.
I'm pretty pleased with how it all came out and will get some pics up on the photo thread soon. Thanks for all the tips and tricks!

[IMG]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6...1042f04209.jpg[/IMG] (not sure why this pic isnt loading? link works fine)

Macro zoom makes the fibers from the paper towel stand out and look much worse than it really is.

Last edited by bedoe; 02-03-2012 at 12:38 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #131  
Old 02-03-2012, 02:43 PM
KimberDave

Join Date: 
Dec 2011
Location: 
NC
Posts: 
547
TPC Rating: 
100% (1)
Very interesting bedoe!
Reply With Quote
  #132  
Old 02-03-2012, 05:12 PM
digger658
Fire Fighter NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Aug 2003
Posts: 
78
TPC Rating: 
100% (3)
First let me say, thanks for all the great info in this thread. I've had a good time working on my 22/45.

I did all the mods, including using a ball point pin spring for the trigger return spring. Pistol functions 110% better but have one problem.

My trigger won't reset itself sometimes, maybe once out of 20 shots. I'm thinking that the pen spring might be to lite. Should I put the stock spring back in or try to find a little stiffer pen spring?
Reply With Quote
  #133  
Old 02-04-2012, 03:15 PM
littlejake
US Air Force Veteran NRA Member - Click Here To Join!

Join Date: 
Dec 2010
Location: 
Bundesrepublik Deutschland
Posts: 
381
TPC Rating: 
100% (5)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bscman View Post
Another quick update....

FWIW, the trigger breaks at a consistent 2lbs 10oz. It has ZERO overtravel, and only enough pre-travel to allow the trigger to reset. MUCH, MUCH improved over stock form.
Truly having zero over-travel is, IMO, not the best idea -- especially when using a Ruger hammer. A slight over-travel assures the sear pulls away slightly from the hammer. With an ideal hammer, after the sear releases the hammer, the hammer will not drag on the delicate sear contact area. It might on a mass produced Ruger hammer unless the edge of the hammer that would be next to the sear as the hammer falls is relieved with a stone. This is one area where a hammer made to tighter tolerances and better fit and finish, such as the VQ hammer, is worth the money. Just my opinion.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:39 AM.

Privacy Policy

DMCA Notice

Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 2000-2018 RimfireCentral.com
x