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What do now? After trigger group modification

4K views 32 replies 11 participants last post by  Chaser 
#1 ·
Hello everyone,
I just gave my first attempt at doing the trigger group modification in the tips and tricks section. It came out well trigger pull has been reduced alot. Is there anything I should do spring wise? Or do anything with the bolt? Any advice or tricks will be greatly appreciated
 
#2 ·
It came out well trigger pull has been reduced alot. Is there anything I should do spring wise? Or do anything with the bolt? Any advice or tricks will be greatly appreciated
If you did all the parts polishing and stoned the hammer you should be at or below 3#'s.

What have you done exactly? Do you have a trigger pull gauge or just guesstamating? Where you are now will greatly determine how much more you can squeeze out of a lampshade trigger job.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Springs for the most part in the TG are O.K. - charging handle is always the first thing I round file/toss... KIDD is the best on the market.

Good Mods:
If you have the equipment.. bench grinder or a belt sander.. and a finishing touch with a cotton wheel and some rouge :https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251031

Auto Bolt Release .. need a Dremel with a bullet grinder or similar = EZ way. Long/hard way is a .25" round file.. will work but lots more work : https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30867
 
#4 · (Edited)
I haven't stoned the hammer yet, just polished what the post said to do, I'm going off by trigger feel, felt about the same as a bx trigger. I will check into kidd charging handle. I will try reworking the bolt as well, and I bought the volquartsen auto bolt already. Wish I would have bought the kidd auto bolt though
 
#5 ·
I haven't stoned the hammer yet, just polished what the post said to do, I'm going off by trigger feel, felt about the same as a bx trigger. I will check into kidd charging handle. I will try reworking the bolt as well
If you have not stoned the hammer notch/ledge you have NOT gotten to it's full potential yet.. but if ya like it as is leave it alone... polishing is the final step... think sharp/crisp edges.. not rounded.
 
#7 ·
Thank you for the advice, I will give it a whirl. I got spoiled on my last 10/22 and it had a brimstone tier 2 already done to the rifle
It is fun/satisfying to tackle a D-I-Y occasionally.. the best on the market is the KIDD Trigger Kit.. Nun Beda :bthumb: Drop-in ecstasy! ;)
 
#12 ·
You can order the kidd plunger springs. Or just clip off one coil at a time to lighten the trigger pull on the plunger spring. Buy a cheap trigger gauge it helps.

Straighten trigger blade with a heat gun and install a set screw to adjust overtravel. Both very cheap mods.
 
#13 ·
Thank you everyone for the tips, I'm much happier with the trigger on my 10/22 now. I plan on getting a few parts from kidd now. It was my first attempt at a trigger job and with everyone's input I was able to make it happen can't thank you guys enough
 
#14 · (Edited)
For all the mods, it depends on your intended use of the gun and your budget.

There are a number of good ways to go for the trigger. I tend to go with Brimstone kits and DIY, but my next one will be the Kidd drop-in.

For the bolt, my knee-jerk, no-brainer move is to send it to CPC for his great blueprinting. $50 plus shipping to him.

I have only changed out one barrel, my basic Ruger 18" sporter one for a Ruger 16.5" sporter. It shoots very well. My other 10/22 is an 1121 Target model, and is the most accurate 22 I own. Better than my CZ 457 ProVarmint MTR-barreled gun with its 8 oz trigger. The 1121 has a JWH bolt (same quality as the CPC one, IMO) and a Brimstoned BX trigger that pulls at 16 - 20 oz.

Oh yeah, both my 10/22s have the Kidd charging handle/rod/spring setup. Also, I did the auto bolt release mod on my stock parts. Takes just seconds with a Dremel and a router bit. I also toss in a Tuffer Buffer or some other version that is softer than the stock steel bolt stop pin, just on general principles. And the receiver rear cleaning rod hole.

Happy modding! :bthumb:
 
#16 ·
For all the mods, it depends on your intended use of the gun and your budget.

There are a number of good ways to go for the trigger. I tend to go with Brimstone kits and DIY, but my next one will be the Kidd drop-in.

For the bolt, my knee-jerk, no-brainer move is to send it to CPC for his great blueprinting. $50 plus shipping to him.

I have only changed out one barrel, my basic Ruger 18" sporter one for a Ruger 16.5" sporter. It shoots very well. My other 10/22 is an 1121 Target model, and is the most accurate 22 I own. Better than my CZ 457 ProVarmint MTR-barreled gun with its 8 oz trigger. The 1121 has a JWH bolt (same quality as the CPC one, IMO) and a Brimstoned BX trigger that pulls at 16 - 20 oz.

Oh yeah, both my 10/22s have the Kidd charging handle/rod/spring setup. Also, I did the auto bolt release mod on my stock parts. Takes just seconds with a Dremel and a router bit. I also toss in a Tuffer Buffer or some other version that is softer than the stock steel bolt stop pin, just on general principles. And the receiver rear cleaning rod hole.

Happy modding!
Thank you for the advise the purpose of this rifle is a general plinker and take care of the varmints around here when needed. So far I've done a DIY trigger job turned out very well no grit or hardly any any creep after stoning the hammer. I also ditched the steel bolt stop and got a auto bolt realease. Also ditched the factory stock for the Magpul x22 hunter stock. Next I want to work on getting the Kidd charging handle and look at bolt options. What does CPC do with the bolts?
 
#20 · (Edited)
Comparably they are both going to function identically. The only real difference is the Kidd bolts are high quality CNC'd and already have an aftermarket firing pin and extractor. Randy at CPC can only work with what he gets and the quality of the Ruger OEM bolts just isn't as good. That being said if I was trying to build an accurate, reliable 10/22 I would be fine with using either one.
 
#22 ·
Arguably the Bolt has almost nothing to do with accuracy.. the pinned FP may reduce fliers.. but, a great bolt reduces and issues with the cycling.. and that may have a huge impact on accuracy IF you want to bend the non-functional rifle over a tree trunk ;)
 
#24 · (Edited)
Thanks guys, I was more thinking about bolt for reliability.

I know alot of people suggest an aftermarket barrel. Are the factory barrels really that bad?
I've had a dozen or so 10/22 over a period of 40 years and I haven't had any serious bolt problems.:confused: I've had one worked by one of the most highly regarded gunsmith, and it was nice, and I've bought a top-of-the-line aftermarket, and it is nice. If you have money burning a hole in your pocket, GM barrel IMO. Not the best but a solid value.

Are Ruger OEM barrels that bad? You tell us, how's it doing? I post tons of target sheets that I shoot at 50 yards with slightly modified guns, search to compare. I usually list mods, ammo and distance but you can always ask if you're not sure. I post the whole sheet, no cherry picking.:bthumb: Not a great shooter, but by far the most prolific target sheet poster on this forum.
 
#31 ·
I would replace the barrel with a heavy tapered barrel and the stock to accept the heavy tapered barrel.

After that then I guess I would remove & replace the bolt and receiver.

Follow that with a new trigger group from someone like Kidd and then take all of the leftover parts and reassemble your old 10/22 rifle. :rolleyes:

Sorry, I couldn't help myself.
 
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